TUXING 4500PSI PCP Air Compressor Review

[bigHUN]

Tuxing 110 Volt vs 220 Volt ... what is a difference in performance? asking because I have both outlets in my garage...

Edit:
What is that "rebuild kit" people talking about earlier in this thread?
(I may order one Tuxing from amazon, and good to know what spare parts to collect as well)

 

[tonyv138]

Looking for help. Just (finally after few month sitting in the garage) fired my 032 for the first time. Seems to be operating ok, except 2 issues.
1. Light in the compressor switch does not coming on
2. temp gauge lcd is dark - no readout

Please advice - how do i deal with these?

Thanks

 

[6gun]

Tuxing 110 Volt vs 220 Volt ... what is a difference in performance? asking because I have both outlets in my garage...

Edit:
What is that "rebuild kit" people talking about earlier in this thread?
(I may order one Tuxing from amazon, and good to know what spare parts to collect as well)

If you have 220, use 220. Motors tend to last longer and start easier. The startup current is split between "two legs". It just does better, without getting into too much electrical theory. If you have the outlets, i suggest it highly.

 

[tonyv138]

If you have 220, use 220. Motors tend to last longer and start easier. The startup current is split between "two legs". It just does better, without getting into too much electrical theory. If you have the outlets, i suggest it highly.

Thanks, I do have 220, but the plug is different than my compressor has for 110

 

[6gun]

Thanks, I do have 220, but the plug is different than my compressor has for 110

If you can be safe with hpa, you can be safe with electricity. If theres no clothes dryer or anything that needs it as is, you could retrofit the outlet or retrofit the cord on the compressor. It's 3 or 4 contact screws to do either and it's dead simple and I bet you can get it the way you need.

 

[AlanMcD]

Thanks, I do have 220, but the plug is different than my compressor has for 110

I used to live somewhere where the only access to 220 was a dryer outlet, and I needed to occasionally use my welder with it (at less than max power, obviously). I simply bought a replacement dryer cord and put the correct outlet on the connection end of it and was good to go. If you are stuck with one kind of outlet, you could always make a similar adaptor cord . . . .

 

[6gun]

I used to live somewhere where the only access to 220 was a dryer outlet, and I needed to occasionally use my welder with it (at less than max power, obviously). I simply bought a replacement dryer cord and put the correct outlet on the connection end of it and was good to go. If you are stuck with one kind of outlet, you could always make a similar adaptor cord . . . .

This is true. I use nema 650 to something sketchy for my welder too. I just made a short adapter cord. I don't know what the electrical prowess of those here is, or a Esa to parts

 

[JimD]

You probably have to move a jumper or something on the motor for it to operate on 220. There may be a diagram on a cover over where the power cord goes into the motor or in the manual. I don't agree 220V is better for the motor, however. The current in the wires going to the motor will be half as high but if you have a 20 amp 120V outlet that powers the compressor fine I would just use it. While some devices may work a little better on 220V that is by no means a sure thing. If it came with a 110V plug it is set up for 110V and will work fine using that. Just don't try to push over 15A out of an outlet only rated for 15A or use a long extension cord running to the compressor. Those things can reduce the voltage at startup and that can be damaging to the motor. But with a good 20A outlet and a heavy and/or short or no extension cord it will be fine on 110V. (I am a retired engineer if that matters)

 

[6gun]

You probably have to move a jumper or something on the motor for it to operate on 220. There may be a diagram on a cover over where the power cord goes into the motor or in the manual. I don't agree 220V is better for the motor, however. The current in the wires going to the motor will be half as high but if you have a 20 amp 120V outlet that powers the compressor fine I would just use it. While some devices may work a little better on 220V that is by no means a sure thing. If it came with a 110V plug it is set up for 110V and will work fine using that. Just don't try to push over 15A out of an outlet only rated for 15A or use a long extension cord running to the compressor. Those things can reduce the voltage at startup and that can be damaging to the motor. But with a good 20A outlet and a heavy and/or short or no extension cord it will be fine on 110V. (I am a retired engineer if that matters)

If buying a bigger compressor and it's rated at 2.2kw and you do the ohms law calculation on it it will seem fine. Mine (tuxing rated at 2. 2kw)has such high locked rotor amp draw that a 30a 115 circuit won't run it.

 

[Sergey1972]

New and interesting problem. The high-pressure cylinder intake check valve not working. It looks fine but may have damaged or corroded the aluminum head, which it seals against. The symptom is that it leaks high-pressure air back to the low-pressure cylinder and blows out the gasket around the 1st stage output check valve. Then, the hose is blown off the air intake. (3 hours run time since last rebuild and first noticed that it couldn't get to pressure and started making a racket, disassembled and discovered blown gasket..........)

Anyone else have this issue and resolved it????

Fun stuff. Ordered more gaskets and 2 new cylinder heads just to save time. $180 on Amazon.

IF IT WORKS, going to upgrade the filter o-rings and replace the metal tube with a hose and quick disconnect. Currently have green o-ring powder leaking at both ends of both filters. Just a matter of time until they blow. Hose and QD will let me disassemble and service filters easier in the future, though I'm concerned it will be easier for them to unscrew if they aren't linked together with metal tube.

Any feedback is appreciated.

Cheers,

Sergey

 

[xindaris]

Here is what I learned when I had one. If you’re going to rebuild it, rebuild everything at the same time. Other wise the older parts will fail one after the other since the rebuilt parts will put a demand on them like when they were new and cause them to fail to.

 

[6gun]

New and interesting problem. The high-pressure cylinder intake check valve not working. It looks fine but may have damaged or corroded the aluminum head, which it seals against. The symptom is that it leaks high-pressure air back to the low-pressure cylinder and blows out the gasket around the 1st stage output check valve. Then, the hose is blown off the air intake. (3 hours run time since last rebuild and first noticed that it couldn't get to pressure and started making a racket, disassembled and discovered blown gasket..........)

Anyone else have this issue and resolved it????

Fun stuff. Ordered more gaskets and 2 new cylinder heads just to save time. $180 on Amazon.

IF IT WORKS, going to upgrade the filter o-rings and replace the metal tube with a hose and quick disconnect. Currently have green o-ring powder leaking at both ends of both filters. Just a matter of time until they blow. Hose and QD will let me disassemble and service filters easier in the future, though I'm concerned it will be easier for them to unscrew if they aren't linked together with metal tube.

Any feedback is appreciated.

Cheers,

Sergey

If you have the ability you can lap the sealing surfaces for the check valves ad save them too. It just requires a little out of the box thinking.

 

[357cal]

Are you certain there isn't an issue with the connecting rod at the point where it joins the crankshaft? Which model do you own? I had a model with all the features, and the problem was indeed with the connecting rod—there was excessive play where it attaches to the crank, so I had to discard it due to severe wear on the crankshaft. Since then, I've purchased a simpler model. Now, I have two: one as a backup. I run one for about two months, then switch. I've rebuilt the first one with a kit because it failed to build pressure. Everything is functioning well now; it's been almost a year. For cooling, I use a 5-gallon Gatorade or similar drink cooler with half water and ice blocks prepared in advance. I also use a high-quality oil specifically designed for compressors—respirating compressor oil. It's more expensive, but it lasts much longer. I keep the temperature below 140 degrees. The last time I filled two tanks from 2500 psi to 4500, the temperature didn't even reach 110 degrees, thanks to Arctic air and an ice jet directed at the heads and crankcase.

 

[6gun]

Are you certain there isn't an issue with the connecting rod at the point where it joins the crankshaft? Which model do you own? I had a model with all the features, and the problem was indeed with the connecting rod—there was excessive play where it attaches to the crank, so I had to discard it due to severe wear on the crankshaft. Since then, I've purchased a simpler model. Now, I have two: one as a backup. I run one for about two months, then switch. I've rebuilt the first one with a kit because it failed to build pressure. Everything is functioning well now; it's been almost a year. For cooling, I use a 5-gallon Gatorade or similar drink cooler with half water and ice blocks prepared in advance. I also use a high-quality oil specifically designed for compressors—respirating compressor oil. It's more expensive, but it lasts much longer. I keep the temperature below 140 degrees. The last time I filled two tanks from 2500 psi to 4500, the temperature didn't even reach 110 degrees, thanks to Arctic air and an ice jet directed at the heads and crankcase.

Just to help with the convo I will work down some terms I find speed it up in the automotive world.


Piston. Compression rings, oil ring, wrist pin, small end of the rod, big end of the rod, crank pin, crank journal, counterweights and main bearings.

That said many of these compressors use similar "off the shelf Lego parts" from China. On the Yong heng type 2 stage setups ive lost big ends on the rods running detergent motor oil in the crank case. Hydraulic oil has worked for many hours buy bypasses rings and stinks. Buying legitimate expensive breathing air dive compressor oil and monitoring temps has paid the most dividends. If you are mechanically inclined, i do recommend checking your clearances(ive crashed pistons with thermal expansion) ive cooked many "small" compressors running outside their duty cycle limits too .

There are no bearings to speak of in any compressor ive killed yet on the rods. No plain bearings even. Just aluminum on steel with an oil film. Keep in mind thermal expansion differences between aluminum and steel and film strength . Anything over 68ci should probably be filled in 2 sessions. An oil cooler mod might help too. Be aware of an air compressor that "pings" or knocks. It might be ingesting it's own oil and dieseling, exacerbating the rod wear problem and causing a dangerous hpa situation. We are in the complicated and technical end of a simple hobby, but i very much like to see guys tinkering on periphery. Why? because we can.

 

[Sergey1972]

Tuxing TXEDT32. Running oil from Nuvair for the Bauers. Disassembly showed some carbon buildup in stage 1. Clean oil in the large diameter of the second stage piston, more oil than I expected. Oil ingestion may be a thing. Did not check the rods 13 hours total run time on compressor 3 hours since rebuild done by Brian at Veradium. Not shipping this thing again. Yes I'm technical and mechanical, full cnc shop and injection molding facility. Having one of my engineering interns work on this thing, he brings me parts and I visit it every once in a while. I'll have him check the rods but I don't see how that can be an issue, currently. The main issue is I'm getting high pressure air back from stage 2 into stage 1 blowing out the gasket (thin section going around the exit check valve, once that happens the air over powers the entry check valve and blows the hose of the intake). The stage 2 input check valve was not obvious and we thought it was missing. Found a rebuild video and found the stage 2 input check valve (floating disk with 1 hole in the center, designed to seal off -center input hole but allow air out of the exit hole in the center, crappy design but worked until now). The floating disk pushes up against a counterbore in the aluminum head, the surface of the head around the input hole has some burn marks and potentially dents from carbon build up. May explain the leakage. Disk itself is clean, could use some lapping but no scarring from wear. Was hoping someone else had a similar problem and fixed it without replacing parts or knows how to avoid it in the future. Currently have both cylinder heads on order from Amazon (cheaper than interrupting someone to use a machine to reface the counterbore for the check valve).

 

[Sergey1972]

Rods checked and no abnormal wear, large diameter pistons fine too. Stage 1 cast cylinder was missing a gasket, no sign of 1st stage piston hitting due to shortened length (design height minus gasket thickness). Put bith lower cylinders back with new gaskets.

 

[6gun]

Tuxing TXEDT32. Running oil from Nuvair for the Bauers. Disassembly showed some carbon buildup in stage 1. Clean oil in the large diameter of the second stage piston, more oil than I expected. Oil ingestion may be a thing. Did not check the rods 13 hours total run time on compressor 3 hours since rebuild done by Brian at Veradium. Not shipping this thing again. Yes I'm technical and mechanical, full cnc shop and injection molding facility. Having one of my engineering interns work on this thing, he brings me parts and I visit it every once in a while. I'll have him check the rods but I don't see how that can be an issue, currently. The main issue is I'm getting high pressure air back from stage 2 into stage 1 blowing out the gasket (thin section going around the exit check valve, once that happens the air over powers the entry check valve and blows the hose of the intake). The stage 2 input check valve was not obvious and we thought it was missing. Found a rebuild video and found the stage 2 input check valve (floating disk with 1 hole in the center, designed to seal off -center input hole but allow air out of the exit hole in the center, crappy design but worked until now). The floating disk pushes up against a counterbore in the aluminum head, the surface of the head around the input hole has some burn marks and potentially dents from carbon build up. May explain the leakage. Disk itself is clean, could use some lapping but no scarring from wear. Was hoping someone else had a similar problem and fixed it without replacing parts or knows how to avoid it in the future. Currently have both cylinder heads on order from Amazon (cheaper than interrupting someone to use a machine to reface the counterbore for the check valve).

You might be surprised how few bigger compressors, and how many fewer people willing to break into them exist here.

 

[357cal]

Just to help with the convo I will work down some terms I find speed it up in the automotive world.


Piston. Compression rings, oil ring, wrist pin, small end of the rod, big end of the rod, crank pin, crank journal, counterweights and main bearings.

That said many of these compressors use similar "off the shelf Lego parts" from China. On the Yong heng type 2 stage setups ive lost big ends on the rods running detergent motor oil in the crank case. Hydraulic oil has worked for many hours buy bypasses rings and stinks. Buying legitimate expensive breathing air dive compressor oil and monitoring temps has paid the most dividends. If you are mechanically inclined, i do recommend checking your clearances(ive crashed pistons with thermal expansion) ive cooked many "small" compressors running outside their duty cycle limits too .

There are no bearings to speak of in any compressor ive killed yet on the rods. No plain bearings even. Just aluminum on steel with an oil film. Keep in mind thermal expansion differences between aluminum and steel and film strength . Anything over 68ci should probably be filled in 2 sessions. An oil cooler mod might help too. Be aware of an air compressor that "pings" or knocks. It might be ingesting it's own oil and dieseling, exacerbating the rod wear problem and causing a dangerous hpa situation. We are in the complicated and technical end of a simple hobby, but i very much like to see guys tinkering on periphery. Why? because we can.

98 percent of the auto world is made in China.

 

[357cal]

You might be surprised how few bigger compressors, and how many fewer people willing to break into them exist here.

1. Check Valve Inspection: Ensure the stage 2 input check valve is functioning correctly. If it’s worn or damaged, replacing it might solve the problem.
2. Surface Condition: The burn marks and potential dents around the input hole in the aluminum head could be contributing to the leakage. Consider lapping (smoothing) the surface to improve the seal.
3. New Cylinder Heads: Ordering new cylinder heads is a practical step. Replacing them might resolve the issue without requiring machine work.

 

[6gun]

98 percent of the auto world is made in China.

I know, and it's all trash. Thankfully the world im working in is either high end parts made here, or vintage stuff made at one of gms plants when cars were good...... Pre smog . Like airguns, the chinese offerings work well enough, but it's cheap junk in the grand scheme (please nobody be offended and search your feelings, you know it to be true) . Including my high dollar tuxing 4 cylinder compressor . It's good enough, but it's no Bauer. My posts on aea hp series will fill you in