TUXING 4500PSI PCP Air Compressor Review

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blacksmith304 said:
Do you have a link to the fiber washers you used? I am fighting the high side back feeding the low side. Thanks
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Clean the exit check valve disk and seating area in the high pressure head. Make sure the high pressure gaskets aren't too thick otherwise you end up with too much uncompressed volume in the high pressure head and the check valve doesn't work right. Make sure you have a good gasket on the low pressure side.
 
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This looks like the goto thread for tuxing problems so...

I ran into this a few days ago. 10 months old, I probably topped up 2 9L tanks worth per week.

High pressure outlet check valve is pitted to death. Leaks into the crank case. Currently talking to someone at tuxing... tempted to call in that 4 year warranty and go buy an alkin... but that's a whole lotta cheddar.

I pulled it apart and replaced the seals. That didn't fix it so I looked at the check valve.

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bthurman said:
Switch to Seco 500 synthetic. Royal purple is not a good oil for that compressor. Your burning yours. RP is actually only good to about 2800.psi then break down rapidly. Still operate the compressor to this day in the review, has over 290 hrs.
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Good to know. Maybe the oil was detonating around the check valve or something. I can't think of any other reason it would pit like that.
 
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caliusoptimus said:
This looks like the goto thread for tuxing problems so...

I ran into this a few days ago. 10 months old, I probably topped up 2 9L tanks worth per week.

High pressure outlet check valve is pitted to death. Leaks into the crank case. Currently talking to someone at tuxing... tempted to call in that 4 year warranty and go buy an alkin... but that's a whole lotta cheddar.

I pulled it apart and replaced the seals. That didn't fix it so I looked at the check valve.

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Those high pressure rings on the piston are toast. I use Mobile Rarus 427 compressor oil, and that has worked for me better than any other lubricants. After too much heat, compressor head warps, and new rings don’t help. I ran 2 thin layers of yellow teflon tape, and it’s kept hi pressure rings from slipping down piston sides like on your picture
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it may be hard to believe, but you’d be surprised how well this works on a warped hi pressure head
 
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dorcula said:
A quick and simple filter tower mod, to simplify filling tanks and hopefully improve the air quality: the rigid steel tube with compression fittings replaced with a couple of quick connect fittings and flexible hose. Note: the fitting in the stage 2 tower has a check valve in it, the one in stage 1 does not. This does a couple of things:
  • Allows to purge the stage 1 tower without depressurizing stage 2 (and the tank connected to it).
  • Allows for quick filter media changes without having to mess with wrenches and getting the compression fittings to seal every time you do it
  • Seals Stage 2 when not in use, making sure the molecular sieve media in it does not suck in the moisture from Stage 1 when sitting idle between fills to hopefully make your media last a little longer. And you can bet there is always moisture in Stage 1.
The idea is to purge Stage 1 every few minutes on long fills to release the trapped moisture, while keeping Stage 2 pressurized to let the molecular sieve media in it do its job (it works best at high pressures). As a side bonus, re-pressurizing after purge is now faster. At the end of the fill, purge Stage 1 completely first, and only then purge Stage 2. If you notice any moisture coming out of Stage 2, this means that the molecular sieve media is saturated, and it's time to replace it. Then you'll appreciate how easy it is now.

I also run the Stage 2 filter with molecular sieve media only, no silica gel desiccant and charcoal.

Oh and the thread size for the fittings is M10x1.0, not NPT or BSPP!

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Always good to see people making improvements to the compressor. When I had mine I found that 24 months was the average when the compressor started to experience failures. My advice is when you experience the first failure do a complete rebuild and save yourself a lot of time chasing down new problems. Complete rebuilds are not that expensive. When you get tired of rebuilding you can buy an Alkin like I did and say goodbye to all the problems and rebuilds.
 
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