Tuxing compressor
- Thread starter scubajeeper
- Start date
any advice on what type of oil works best for this compressor? preferably something i can buy at homedepot, lowes or maybe walmart.
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Northern tool. I use ingersoll rand compressor oil. It will turn black almost immediately but works
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I just received my Tuxing compressor. The internal styro-foam was beat up and my case scratched by loose bags of parts. This item should really have been double boxed. It looks like the nut holding the circuit breaker came loose and exited the box through one of the holes it had in it, the circuit breaker was found loose inside the case.
I have a 220v receptacle in my home so I purchased the 220v version.
My main concerns with this unit are that there is no ground and the unit is wired in such a way that one phase of the US dual 110v receptacle that supplies half of the 220v is continuously connected to the motor winding, only one leg of the AC supply is switched because it's wired for true single phase 220 and not dual phase 110v, this is not good.
I have ordered a new receptacle, an IEC320 C14 AC POWER CORD INLET SOCKET WITH ROCKER SWITCH 250V 15A SR1G, it has a DPST (double pole single throw) rocker switch which will interrupt BOTH of the 110AC phases used in US 220vac circuits, this will fully isolate the unit when switched off. I will also be adding a ground to the receptacle, the ground wire is there, the internal ac cord just needs to be stripped back to expose it.
All soldered connections will be replaced with quick connect crimp terminals.
In the UK (and Europe) the YELLOW/GREEN is GROUND, BROWN is HOT, BLUE is NEUTRAL.
When this unit is connected to US 220VAC both the BROWN AND the BLUE are "HOT" and carry 110vac each and so both legs need to be interrupted by the on/off switch.
Hope this is of help to those of you that have purchased the 220VAC version.
I have a 220v receptacle in my home so I purchased the 220v version.
My main concerns with this unit are that there is no ground and the unit is wired in such a way that one phase of the US dual 110v receptacle that supplies half of the 220v is continuously connected to the motor winding, only one leg of the AC supply is switched because it's wired for true single phase 220 and not dual phase 110v, this is not good.
I have ordered a new receptacle, an IEC320 C14 AC POWER CORD INLET SOCKET WITH ROCKER SWITCH 250V 15A SR1G, it has a DPST (double pole single throw) rocker switch which will interrupt BOTH of the 110AC phases used in US 220vac circuits, this will fully isolate the unit when switched off. I will also be adding a ground to the receptacle, the ground wire is there, the internal ac cord just needs to be stripped back to expose it.
All soldered connections will be replaced with quick connect crimp terminals.
In the UK (and Europe) the YELLOW/GREEN is GROUND, BROWN is HOT, BLUE is NEUTRAL.
When this unit is connected to US 220VAC both the BROWN AND the BLUE are "HOT" and carry 110vac each and so both legs need to be interrupted by the on/off switch.
Hope this is of help to those of you that have purchased the 220VAC version.
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just got my 110V compressor tried it out and put hydraulic oil, used a 5 gallon water to cool it down but system heats up very fast...going up to 50C +. can anyone help me with maintaining the temperature down. any advice ....
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Where does the temp steady out at? 50 isn’t that high. I think they request you not go over 65 but the actual limit is 70.
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i'll try it again and see where the temp is steady, would using a bigger water sources help or adding ice to the bucket?
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Yes, adding a block of ice to the bucket would help, but you don't know if your compressor is getting too hot or not. Don't worry if it doesn't go over 65C.
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what is the normal running temperature for the compressor. i'm trying to fill my 3L tank to 4500 psi
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The temp probe was 35~50C with 5 gallons of water and ice.
The first stage pot read 60~65C with non-contact IR thermometer.
I filled in stages, 100 BAR, 180 BAR, 260 BAR, 300 BAR with about 20 minute breaks to allow the motor and crankcase to cool down, and 5 minute interval drain purges.
It took a little over an hour cumulative run time to fill my 3L tank.
I received my new power input receptacle with DPST switch and will post a picture when I have installed it. The case will require a little modification.
Greg.
The first stage pot read 60~65C with non-contact IR thermometer.
I filled in stages, 100 BAR, 180 BAR, 260 BAR, 300 BAR with about 20 minute breaks to allow the motor and crankcase to cool down, and 5 minute interval drain purges.
It took a little over an hour cumulative run time to fill my 3L tank.
I received my new power input receptacle with DPST switch and will post a picture when I have installed it. The case will require a little modification.
Greg.
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As long as you don't go above 65 to 70C you should be fine. That's the temperature of the high pressure section of the compressor. If it goes over 65 and starts getting close to 70 I would shut it down.
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just ran into a problem. looks like air and water is getting into the oil with this compressor. anyone ran into this problem? the water going in is a continuous flow but when i turn the compressor on the water coming out is full of air and starts sputtering...checked the oil and it is cloudy like milk...ugh...need help
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It sounds like one of the seals of a high pressure transfer tube is blowing water past the first stage piston rings. I just re-assembled mine after putting in a new DPST switch, I looke to try to see how the second stage was held together and the only thing that seems to do that are the four bolts that hold it in place.
I am presuming the upper section is "pressed" together and has seals and o-rings in it. Hopefully someone has taken theirs to pieces and can shed some light on how to service it.
I am presuming the upper section is "pressed" together and has seals and o-rings in it. Hopefully someone has taken theirs to pieces and can shed some light on how to service it.
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when i release the pressure valve the water is brown and a lot of water comes out, not to mention that the filter is filled with water. thanks god i tested it before plugging it to my tank.
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I found this picture online;
It looks like it presses together with o-rings at thetop and bottom of each stainless steel tube as well as the gold anodized aluminum top and bottom.
Should be still under warranty, I'd contact the seller and have them send you a new head.
Clean the sump out with white gas. Pull the bottom cylinder pot and check for any damage to the bore and the piston.
Greg.
It looks like it presses together with o-rings at thetop and bottom of each stainless steel tube as well as the gold anodized aluminum top and bottom.
Should be still under warranty, I'd contact the seller and have them send you a new head.
Clean the sump out with white gas. Pull the bottom cylinder pot and check for any damage to the bore and the piston.
Greg.
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i just changed out the o rings in the center of the pump. will try it out and see if it holds. thanks for the advice guys
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