Purchased a Tuxing TXEDM042 in September, and with the addition of a fluid filled gauge and a better pressure relief valve this is a real work horse, we shoot over 2000 rounds a month and fill bottles nearly every day. My rifles have 580 cc bottles that hold 300 bar. A 6.8 liter tank with 4500 psi in will only fill to 300 bar once or twice. Is there anybody out there pushing the Tuxing's to a little higher pressure?
Tuxing Compressors
- Thread starter Kenney1124
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Hopefully you will get it sooner. Ordered mine on a Thursday it shipped that same day out of CA and FEDEX delivered it Saturday morning, WOW! One of the modifications I made was replacing the factory pressure relief valve, which is set to 300 bar, with a 5000 psi relief valve. I'm filling my tanks to 4700 psi and it works just fine. If you can fill your guns to 300 bar you need all the air you can get.
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Compressor arrived Friday. Fills my 480cc Crown and both Benjamins (P-Rod and Akela) in minutes. No temp issues. However, filling my 75cf tank requires a constant fill-for-two-minutes-then turn-off-to-cool once it reaches 180 degrees. I have been cooling it until 70 before starting again. At this rate, it is taking a long time. I wonder if my cooling fluid selection is the problem. I went with two gallons of waterless Evans coolant just to keep corrosive water out of the machine. Going to double the amount to four gallons (16L) tomorrow to see if that helps. Also putting frozen sealed bags in the bucket.
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That's pretty excessive. Brian at Veradium Air (USA Tuxing parts rep) recommends just bottled water (i.e. purified, not distilled) with Water Wetter. Make sure there's plenty of air circulation around the compressor, and the rear fan is working. I run my Tuxing 041 for about 10-15 minutes at a time when tank filling, till it hits around 55C/130F. Even that may be overly cautious.
https://www.redlineoil.com/waterwetter
This is a very long thread, but it was started by Brian, and has a lot of good information about the various twin cylinder Tuxings: https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/tuxing-4500psi-pcp-air-compressor-review.831824/
https://www.redlineoil.com/waterwetter
This is a very long thread, but it was started by Brian, and has a lot of good information about the various twin cylinder Tuxings: https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/tuxing-4500psi-pcp-air-compressor-review.831824/
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For cooling I use 2 gallons of prestone and 2 gallons of distilled water. I have run it for 80 minutes plus filling 94 cuft bottles from empty. Temp gets to 160 - 170. Now that said it is also January and 60 degrees in my garage. I'm sure in summer it will run hotter
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For cooling I use 2 gallons of prestone and 2 gallons of distilled water. I have run it for 80+ minutes filling 94 cuft bottles from empty to 4500psi. Temp gets to 160 - 170. Now that said it is also January and 60 degrees in my garage. I'm sure in summer it will run hotter
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180 is to hot for an 032 or higher series only use second 500 oil and a gallon of drinking water and 8 capfuls of water wetter in your compressor. Anything else is shortening the life of compressor ours only runs at 130 max temp even when n summer. Cannot stress the above enough.
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I can run out compressor for well over 2 hour filling tanks and never above 130 folks we have spent a couple years as tuxing reps and working on them . I see folks suggesting anti freeze and all kinds of oils te combo of Seco 500, drinking water and water wetter has proven to us the best combination for the Tuxing line. Save yourself the experimental headaches.
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Thanks for the info bthurman! On my way to the parts house to get WaterWetter (never knew such a product existed) and have ordered Seco 500 oil. Don't recall reading any of this in the manual.
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I think the only piece you may be missing is the 032 compressors have a radiator and fans to cool the fluid. Switching to water and water wetter will help by itself, better thermal conductivity. The guys with lower temperature numbers have radiators and fans, not just a bucket.
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I do not have a radiator on mine but do have extra fans one for the motor and one for the low pressure side cylinder, I was suprised when my heat gun showed me 194f on the cylinder near the top. The highest temp I've seen is 134f and that only shows up during the last 5 minutes or so when close to 4200psi before that stays about 120f I run Chemlube 751 and 2-3 gallons of distilled water with water wetter and two small chemical ice packs. So far with about 5 hrs run time I couldn't be happier. I have a GX CS2 for the small tube guns. The 580cc Avenger and Kral puncher jumbo take les than 2 minutes to fill when my 74cf tank gets to low for a fill on those guns. BTW I only feed my compressors 99.995 pure Nitrogen, no combustion in my compressors or guns and NO Moisture
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Thanks for the info! The radiator makes perfect sense. I will get to the parts house and buy a radiator core, and find a cooling fan. After I get it up and running I will post a some pictures. Curious can you get over 4500 psi out of them?
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IMO if you want it to live, stay at 4000 psi or under. Occasionally 4500 psi but know you are shortening it's life. Proper oil, cooling and general maintenance are all important but materials and tolerances are more Kentucky Windage. It will break so keep spares handy. I own an 032 Tuxing and very pleased and have spares when the day it stops working comes. I only hope it's not motor or motor control related...no spares there.
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Just added the Molecular sieve today, topped off my 74cf tank from 3500 to 4500 to test for leaks max temp was 53.1ºc /143.42ºf. I'm going to guess there is no direction issues with the MS? Also swapped out the batteries in the Temp Gauge, I'll give the water/water wetter a try. Oh I'm running Seco 500, it really likes it, sounds smoother compared to the Royal Purple.
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After taking heed of what has been posted about cooling and fluids here is what we did.
Wanted to keep it simple. Bought a 20” fan at Lowe’s for $60, a radiator core, at O’Reilly’s, for a Dodge Dynasty $110 (it was the cheapest) and $30 for the plumbing fittings. Took heavy duty zip ties and tied the core to the fan shroud and used carriage bolts in the radiator mounting brackets for legs to hold the weight, which isn’t much. Using the original pump and bucket, 6-8 quarts of tap water and a bottle of Water Wetter we ran it for 54 minutes and the highest temp was 99 degrees! The compressor runs much smoother and quieter. This is around 50 degrees cooler. The Sec500 oil should be here later this week, can’t wait to see/hear what that does for it. Thanks everyone!
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Guess that answers that. You have giant radiator compared to the little computer coolers we have. So you get way more cooling. I meant get a transmissio cooler or something. Yours is going to do great. No thermal shock from bottles of ice and stable temperature. Great job.
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So how does it move the water uphill through your radiator that seems like it really struggle for that little fish pump
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We also put blue food coloring in the water so we could see it flowing. The pump is in the bucket that sits on a milk crate it only has to lift maybe 8" to the inlet on top of the radiator. the water runs down through the core and into the cylinder heads returns to the bucket where the pump is. I was skeptical of the original pump also, so far it is just fine, time will tell. We tried using a transfer pump but the smallest one I could find was 6gpm which is way too much and the compressor did not like it. This set up may look a little crude but it is highly effective at cooling.
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I looked at tranny coolers and heater cores and the radiator was about $20 more. We talked about fabricating a bracket and mounting to the compressor frame but...When we held the core up to the fan it seemed pretty obvious that attaching the core to the fan shroud was the way to go. The results far exceed the expectations. Cost of this cooling system, right at $200.
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