Tuxing double cylinder - crank screw removal

[inverted]

Hi all!

Does anyone know how to loosen and remove the screw on on the Tuxing double cylinder compressor that attaches piston rods to the flywheel?

One circled in red:

It's really tight and, of course, everything is spinning making things even harder.

Thank you!
Regards,
Walt

 

[rcs9250]

My guess is that they used a thread locker of some kind. Have you tried an impact tool? Also, is it possibly a left hand thread?

 

[Firewalker]

My guess is that they used a thread locker of some kind. Have you tried an impact tool? Also, is it possibly a left hand thread?

That's what I was thinking, left hand thread?

 

[inverted]

I have no idea if it's a left hand thread.
I don't have any kind of impact drill.
I have a big impact tool for compressor but I would need to by 6mm hex for it, I only have socket wrenches for it

 

[inverted]

I'll try the other way and see how it goes

 

[inverted]

I'll try the other way and see how it goes

 

[bigHUN]

On my YH it is a Left Hand thread.
You don't need any impact wrench but on the allenkey - give it a moment of inertia
use a mallet or anything that won't damage the key, but be careful don't let the key jump out of that hex socket.

 

[inverted]

Found an allen key with a longer arm, a bit smaller hammer and it finally broke loose.

Yes, it's a left hand thread.

Thank you all!

I thought that I'll avoid taking the cylinders off but in order to take the piston rods off the flywheel, those had to come off too.

Now I just have to order new piston rings and all new seals.

 

[Firewalker]

I'm just glad a solution was found and you were successful!

Keep us updated?

 

[Sergey1972]

Found an allen key with a longer arm, a bit smaller hammer and it finally broke loose.

Yes, it's a left hand thread.

Thank you all!

I thought that I'll avoid taking the cylinders off but in order to take the piston rods off the flywheel, those had to come off too.

Now I just have to order new piston rings and all new seals.

I left the rods in place and just changed pistons. Remove cylinders then access c-clips on pistons to remove dowel pins holding themin place.

 

[jking]

You can also find a wood block or something similar to wedge between the crank and the housing as a backup when you want to loosen or tighten the bolt again.

 

[inverted]

Everything has been rebuilt.
Yesterday I've picked up new oil.
If I get some spare time, I'll do a test run today.

Most interesting thing that I have found inside was in the splitter block (aluminium block from where HP air goes to pressure gauge, filling hose, burst disk, bleeder valve)
In that block there is one last final desiccant filter.
It's been pulverised from the pressure

 

[Peashooter]

I am changing oil and filter on my 4 CYL Tuxie in a few months, looking forward to see how things hold up ( state of old oil ) and the filter of course.
I will be doing that ahead of the Tuxing Scheduled maintenance.
I am contemplating adding air drying pellets on the intake side, not that i bleed a whole lot of moisture during a boost.
M8 have ordered a 9L CF bottle like mine, so that will have to be filled from 0, i can not recall how long that take from my own bottle, but not too bad with 4 CYL

 

[Trucker3573]

Just have a few curiosity questions. How long did it run before it needed this rebuild? Where did you order all the rebuild parts from ? Which model compressor do you have ?

 

[bigHUN]

Need to rebuild when need to rebuild. There is no formula how to circle it in your calendar for next year.
The most important is - don't bake your piston rings especially not the second stage.

 

[inverted]

Just have a few curiosity questions. How long did it run before it needed this rebuild? Where did you order all the rebuild parts from ? Which model compressor do you have ?

It wasn't a matter of hours that drove me to rebuilding it. It had around 6 hours in total. Everything was working just fine, no leaks, building up pressure without any problem, never overheated...
Problem was that horrible smell. Compressed air smelled terribly.
I believe now that I've caused that issue, but I couldn't live with the stench any more so I went and rebuild it.

I have ordered everything from Ali, Tuxing has all the parts needed there.
Shipping is a bit lengthy but I had a set ready, now I'm waiting for the spare one. I always keep these things ready.

My is model TXED012

 

[Trucker3573]

It wasn't a matter of hours that drove me to rebuilding it. It had around 6 hours in total. Everything was working just fine, no leaks, building up pressure without any problem, never overheated...
Problem was that horrible smell. Compressed air smelled terribly.
I believe now that I've caused that issue, but I couldn't live with the stench any more so I went and rebuild it.

I have ordered everything from Ali, Tuxing has all the parts needed there.
Shipping is a bit lengthy but I had a set ready, now I'm waiting for the spare one. I always keep these things ready.

My is model TXED012

Thanks for the info. What do you think caused the bad smelling air ?

 

[inverted]

Need to rebuild when need to rebuild. There is no formula how to circle it in your calendar for next year.
The most important is - don't bake your piston rings especially not the second stage.

Exactly, on these things there is no maintenance schedule.
Keep it cool, change oil regularly, don't use auto stop, let the water pump continue pumping for a length of time after shutoff

 

[inverted]

I am changing oil and filter on my 4 CYL Tuxie in a few months, looking forward to see how things hold up ( state of old oil ) and the filter of course.
I will be doing that ahead of the Tuxing Scheduled maintenance.
I am contemplating adding air drying pellets on the intake side, not that i bleed a whole lot of moisture during a boost.
M8 have ordered a 9L CF bottle like mine, so that will have to be filled from 0, i can not recall how long that take from my own bottle, but not too bad with 4 CYL

Trust me, don't do it!
Explanation in the next post

 

[inverted]

Thanks for the info. What do you think caused the bad smelling air ?

When I've bought it, I also bought the intake filter with those brownish drying pellets
So, for those not to absorb moisture when not in use, I have 3D printed a nice tight cap
One day I went to top up 6.8L bottle, connected everything and let it do it's job.
After a while I have noticed that it's filling the bottle way to slow.
Everything was ok, no leaks so i thought maybe some of the o-rings or seals inside went wrong but since it was slowly building up pressure I let it work thinking "I need this bottle tomorrow, I'll deal with it some other day."
Only later when I was storing the compressor to it's place have I realised what a stupid thing have I done!
It worked under vacuum the whole filling session!
I guess that it took the air pass the piston rings and the small amount it could through 3D printed cap
Since it created vacuum on the intake, it sucked all the dust and particles from those brown pellets
After that, compressed air that was coming out of it smelled terribly.

Aftermath:
- dust from those brown drying pellets went into every corner inside the cylinders, pipes, all the filters, stuck to every surface.
- I've changed all the seals, o-rings, piston rings because these is no way to know which is damaged and which is not (whole set is not exactly cheap)
- I had to dump all air from 6.8L and 14L bottles which I now need to fill from 0
- I had to buy new oil also and where I live that is 46€ per litre (quart is about 0.94 of a litre)