Benjamin Two questions for Marauder owners.

[tegridy]

Hi all,


Wishing you well.

I got my Regulated Marauder recently. It's my first air rifle, though I have owned firearms for many years.


My first question, is the bolt on your Marauder super tough, and loading a pellet seems like it takes an unreasonable amount of drawback to get it the bolt action to go in to its second "click" and actually load air? I'm not sure if that makes sense or not...

Second question, is there any way that I can smooth it out or just make the required energy to load it lower?


Maybe this is normal for PCP air rifles, I'm not sure. I could imagine trapping and dispersing controlled amounts of pressurized air takes a bit of energy to toggle the mechanism, but it's still crazy how much more it takes when compared even to loading like 50cal sniper rifle side actions that are super smooth, light, and can be done with your thumb.


Thanks in advance for your help!

 

[Sergey1972]

Hi all,


Wishing you well.

I got my Regulated Marauder recently. It's my first air rifle, though I have owned firearms for many years.


My first question, is the bolt on your Marauder super tough, and loading a pellet seems like it takes an unreasonable amount of drawback to get it the bolt action to go in to its second "click" and actually load air? I'm not sure if that makes sense or not...

Second question, is there any way that I can smooth it out or just make the required energy to load it lower?


Maybe this is normal for PCP air rifles, I'm not sure. I could imagine trapping and dispersing controlled amounts of pressurized air takes a bit of energy to toggle the mechanism, but it's still crazy how much more it takes when compared even to loading like 50cal sniper rifle side actions that are super smooth, light, and can be done with your though.


Thanks in advance for your help!

Firearm you only have to cock a little hammer or firing pin to fire a primer. Airgun big hammer force to overcome closing pressure on valve. That being said there are valve designs that are easier to open and will allow lighter hammer forces. 1st step is debur, smooth, polish. There should be multiple threads for marauders and other crosman guns. Good luck and happy tinkering.

 

[tegridy]

Firearm you only have to cock a little hammer or firing pin to fire a primer. Airgun big hammer force to overcome closing pressure on valve. That being said there are valve designs that are easier to open and will allow lighter hammer forces. 1st step is debur, smooth, polish. There should be multiple threads for marauders and other crosman guns. Good luck and happy tinkering.

Thank you I feel like I'm starting to get to know the rifle a little now. Delving down the tinkering/modification rabbit hole a bit tonight and let's just say it's pushing 3AM and time for bed I'm just trying to find instances of other people already adjusting this particular thing.

 

[cavedweller]

Hi all,


Wishing you well.

I got my Regulated Marauder recently. It's my first air rifle, though I have owned firearms for many years.


My first question, is the bolt on your Marauder super tough, and loading a pellet seems like it takes an unreasonable amount of drawback to get it the bolt action to go in to its second "click" and actually load air? I'm not sure if that makes sense or not...

Second question, is there any way that I can smooth it out or just make the required energy to load it lower?


Maybe this is normal for PCP air rifles, I'm not sure. I could imagine trapping and dispersing controlled amounts of pressurized air takes a bit of energy to toggle the mechanism, but it's still crazy how much more it takes when compared even to loading like 50cal sniper rifle side actions that are super smooth, light, and can be done with your though.


Thanks in advance for your help!

Marauder platforms come in at various price points with varying features. Normally it is not difficult to cock a marauder. You are compressing a spring, which when released by breaking your triggers sear, brings a weighted hammer forward to strike a valve and this releases a regulated amount of air. In PCP’s the cheaper the gun, the more temperamental your experience will be.
If I were to buy a Marauder I would buy it from @Airgun-Revisions and have Rich Dudek do his magic to it. He will and can also tune and tweak the one you have now.

 

[WNYBill]

Being used to slick bolt action PB's, I find my M-Rod hard and often load 2 pellets. Makes tiny groups impossible! I like the toggle on my Notos better.

 

[dizzums]

yes, youre pulling against a spring ... if somebody cranked it down real hard that can affect it, you can work on it with a chrono and maybe get it a bit looser without loosing power, theres a striker distance adjustment and a valve adjustment that plays i to the tune ... the mechanism itself isnt really ideal, its metal on metal with a cocking arm sticking out that 'side loads' the action, so that can be smoothed a bit, and then treat the metal with teflon, moly or something similar 'before' lubing with some grease sparingly ... be sure to blue loctite the catch lug screws on the bolt while you got it apart ..

 

[starlingassn]

as was said,
youre compressing the hammer spring when cocking a pcp.

 

[Kpac]

Hammer springs are strong in those rifles i am used to it is set up 70fpe so i added this to it so i can pull it back lol

 

[Kpac]

Hammer springs are strong in those rifles i am used to it is set up 70fpe so i added this to it so i can pull it back lolView attachment 481761

Sorry ment to say mine is set up 70ftp and this makes it alot easier

 

[3Crows]

This makes cocking easier:

Marauder Thumb Rest - Airgun Revisions

Add a bit of comfort when cycling your charging handle with this AR exclusive Thumb Rest. Just screw into back of air tube. Rest your thumb on it while grabbing charging handle and squeeze your hand. Aids in smoother cocking as well bringing your index finger lower on bolt handle…

www.airgunrevisions.com

Cocking the bolt does not "load air" into the plenum. There is a hammer spring which is compressed and it is a fairly stiff spring. Use some lithium grease on the bolt. Do not put any sort of petroleum grease or oil in the air system, 100% silicone only.

You bought the regulated Marauder, I do not have a drawing for it, should be in your owner manual. This is the standard Marauder. The regulated version adds a regulator forward of the exhaust valve (2). The spring that is compressed during cocking is (28) and the hammer is (41) which is pulled rearward by the bolt and is trapped by a sear on the trigger assembly (38).




When you pull the trigger, the sear drops, the hammer is freed and is pushed forward by the spring striking the exhaust valve releasing air into the barrel propelling the pellet.

One of my two (Huma) regulated side lever M-Rods, the regulator and plenum are (1258) and the hammer and spring can be seen in the plastic bag and the exhaust valve is gold colored. I actually use a different valve and free flight hammer now in that rifle but of no consequence to this thread.

 

[Kpac]

 

[kayaker]

Yep, that is the nature of that beast, always has been. The bright side is that you got a factory installed depinger in that new gun lol. Another person to talk too is Motorhead he has a lot of experience on them. I had two gen 2's and thought they were hard till I received the newer version thank god for side levers.

 

[3Crows]

I wish somebody would make a Tee handle bolt for the M-Rod like the charging handle on an AR15 rifle. There are three issues with the bolt.

1) The bolt has an asymmetric load as you pull the handle rearward as the bolt engages the hammer and spring causing the bolt to bind a(thus I use lithium grease).
2) Your hand has no support during cocking (this the link I provided earlier) and provides an asymmetric force to the bolt.
3) The bolt provides an asymmetric force to the hammer and spring causing the hammer to tilt and drag during cocking (some use a dry film lubricant on the hammer and polish the hammer and ID of the tube in that location).

A Tee handle bolt would not eliminate these things but would allow a straight pull backward of the bolt, a finger on both sides of the bolt.

Anyways, when you cock an M-Rod or any of these type guns where a spring is compressed to drive the hammer, pull the bolt back like you mean it. Or you will wind up short stroking and double feeding pellets. And then there will be another thread on how to repair your rifle after as one fellow did recently, used a hammer to drive the jammed magazine out breaking the bolt and pellet probe. Uh, do not use a hammer.

 

[Kpac]

This makes cocking easier:

Marauder Thumb Rest - Airgun Revisions

Add a bit of comfort when cycling your charging handle with this AR exclusive Thumb Rest. Just screw into back of air tube. Rest your thumb on it while grabbing charging handle and squeeze your hand. Aids in smoother cocking as well bringing your index finger lower on bolt handle…

www.airgunrevisions.com

Cocking the bolt does not "load air" into the plenum. There is a hammer spring which is compressed and it is a fairly stiff spring. Use some lithium grease on the bolt. Do not put any sort of petroleum grease or oil in the air system, 100% silicone only.

You bought the regulated Marauder, I do not have a drawing for it, should be in your owner manual. This is the standard Marauder. The regulated version adds a regulator forward of the exhaust valve (2). The spring that is compressed during cocking is (28) and the hammer is (41) which is pulled rearward by the bolt and is trapped by a sear on the trigger assembly (38).




When you pull the trigger, the sear drops, the hammer is freed and is pushed forward by the spring striking the exhaust valve releasing air into the barrel propelling the pellet.

One of my two (Huma) regulated side lever M-Rods, the regulator and plenum are (1258) and the hammer and spring can be seen in the plastic bag and the exhaust valve is gold colored. I actually use a different valve and free flight hammer now in that rifle but of no consequence to this thread.

I here you my friend i totally customized my hammer valve any everything out of 7075 aircraft aluminum but i chose to keep the bolt handle because i wanted the rifle look just added this now super easy lol

 

[Kpac]

Hi all,


Wishing you well.

I got my Regulated Marauder recently. It's my first air rifle, though I have owned firearms for many years.


My first question, is the bolt on your Marauder super tough, and loading a pellet seems like it takes an unreasonable amount of drawback to get it the bolt action to go in to its second "click" and actually load air? I'm not sure if that makes sense or not...

Second question, is there any way that I can smooth it out or just make the required energy to load it lower?


Maybe this is normal for PCP air rifles, I'm not sure. I could imagine trapping and dispersing controlled amounts of pressurized air takes a bit of energy to toggle the mechanism, but it's still crazy how much more it takes when compared even to loading like 50cal sniper rifle side actions that are super smooth, light, and can be done with your though.


Thanks in advance for your help!

Trust try this super easy now

 

[3Crows]

I find that gripping the bolt handle in as close to the axis of the bolt and resting my thumb on the AGR thumb rest is the best (other than a side lever conversion) and easiest way to cock. Thumb on the rest, two or three fingers on the bolt in as close as possible, squeeze my hand (like squeezing a rubber ball), no need to pull and honk back at all, just squeeze my hand until I hear the hammer and sear engage with a click.

Maybe someday, in a new and bright world, Crosman will give us a Gen 3 M-Rod with a side lever and aluminum 3600 psi air tube and a better transfer port design. Something like this, but alas, they never will.

 

[Stubbers]

Relevant post/read.

Comparing a few Poppet Valves

Before I begin...Many thanks goes to Dave/ @sb327 for his contributions in getting me to where I am today with my current valve arrangement, we worked together closely to dial in versatile pilot valve that works very similarly to the one found in the L2. Also thanks to @csdilligaf for turning...

www.airgunnation.com

The best alternative to the above mentions in the thread to reduce cocking force in pcp's are side levers, which is something you may want to consider in your next gun. However with my mods, my marauder cocks even easier than a side lever gun, which is...extremely rare and a lot of work to obtain. Side levers reduce the cocking force generally at a 3:1 ratio, so a 9 lb/in spring would take 3 lbs of force to cock back 1 inch with a side lever, where as with bolt action it takes all 9 lbs.

-Matt

 

[Stubbers]

I find that gripping the bolt handle in as close to the axis of the bolt and resting my thumb on the AGR thumb rest is the best (other than a side lever conversion) and easiest way to cock. Thumb on the rest, two or three fingers on the bolt in as close as possible, squeeze my hand, no need to pull and honk back at all, just squeeze my hand until I hear the hammer and sear engage with a click.

Maybe someday, in a new and bright world, Crosman will give us a Gen 3 M-Rod with a side lever and aluminum 3600 psi air tube and a better transfer port design. Something like this, but alas, they never will.

This is how I cock mine, I have a 5/8-18 plug installed in the rear plug that doubles as a thumb rest (on both the above gun and my marauder that uses a stock rear plug), I place my thumb on it and 1-2 fingers on the bolt, and squeeze, and with my gun only needing 2-3 lb hammer springs, this can be done with your pinky finger nail alone.

-Matt

 

[Air King]

Do they still make a hammer debouncer and some kind of hammer spring kit for the Marauder? I heard it's a big improvement, I researched it and saw lots of talk about it, but couldn't find any of those items still for sale. So any suggestions to that would be appreciated, thanks.

 

[Stubbers]

Might as well show the stock version plug too, just had to snap a picture. This plug provides quick access to the hammer spring/ssg without having to remove the breech bolts and stock. I wouldn't have it any other way personally hence why both guns are setup this way. Really convenient for changing calibers/tunes. The 5/8 plug has an internal hex that sets the gap for the ssg/spring.