You can not have recoil for a springer take place after a pellet leaves. You can have it reduced or minimized but not after.
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Air Arms TX200 MKIII
- Thread starter pesty3782
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You can not have recoil for a springer take place after a pellet leaves. You can have it reduced or minimized but not after.
True. Recoil starts the instant the piston starts to move, and the pellet exits shortly after the piston bounces, when the recoil has turned to forward surge.
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Got the rifle today and did a little chrono work to get a baseline for when the Vortek kit goes in.
JSB 8.4's
JSB 10.34
H&N 10.65
Tony P.
JSB 8.4's
JSB 10.34
H&N 10.65
Tony P.
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That’s awesome….your gonna love it!
The rest of your airguns are gonna be very lonely and jealous
The rest of your airguns are gonna be very lonely and jealous
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Got the kit in with the help of a friend that lives by. I didn’t have time to chrono the 8.4’s but here are the 10.3’s and 10.65
10.3’s
H&N 10.65
interesting the 10.3’s did better chrono wise compared to the 10.65’s this time.
I had only shot maybe 15 pellets after the kit was installed before a quick chrono job. When I go out to sight in the scope I will have more chrono information.
‘Tony P
10.3’s
H&N 10.65
interesting the 10.3’s did better chrono wise compared to the 10.65’s this time.
I had only shot maybe 15 pellets after the kit was installed before a quick chrono job. When I go out to sight in the scope I will have more chrono information.
‘Tony P
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The piston slams home without a cushion of air properly timed to the pellet leaving the barrel, that harshness is often refered to as recoil when in reality it is a piston bottoming out at the end of the stroke! That is why timming is so critical !!
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Gotta agree there, to much hp can be fun!! Perhaps I should have said excess power that cant be used in normal everyday driving! My TX is also tuned at full power, may not use it everyday but when I need it, there it is, ready to go !! Being in the country my pest control is often at distances well beyond the 40 yd range, to big a reach for 12 ft lb.
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Which is part of the recoil. I agree. As I noted one can reduce but not eliminate the recoil before the pellet leaves the barrel.
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i have never tuned a springer, how does one time the piston to the pellet leaving the barrel ?seems to me one would want the piston fully at the end of travel before the pellet leaves , just before .
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Takes time and patience, using weights and shims you keep changing until you get the piston slamming home then back off until it bounces at the end then fine tune until that sweet spot takes place. I find the best feel is have the rifle on my cheek when it fires and a good chrono to measure. That sweet spot is when you get the max velocity with the least recoil/ jump instead just a solid thump that does not affect accuracy. Hard to explain but that was my speciality when I was tunning springers..
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Yes, because each rifle, spring, seal etc will be a little different. My own rifle shoots 8.4 gn pellets at 910 fps and barely moves, when it recoils it is a straight back and forth little thump but the pellet is already gone, doesn't effect the accuracy. Those that have shot it think it is a 12/13 ft lb rifle until they cock it and realize the extra effort. I normally cock and load for first time shooters of my rifle so they can only judge power from felt recoil. When my boys were competing, they shot SR models, avg around 830/840 fps with CP 7.9 back in the days they were good pellets. By getting rhe shot cycle just perfect we were able to get some extra fps out of the 12 ft lb rifles.
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I agree with AS, save pellet having left. I suspect that has more to do with semantics. You can see at about 3.16 in this video how much mine moves and how it moves. I am shooting AA 8.4 at about 906.5 fps.
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Thanks everybody for your help and Dale your videos were a huge Help!!!!
I was shooting for the first time today a springer and it is a humbling experience for sure. I was shooting the H&N 10.6's they did better than the 10.3's...They were shooting right at 625 very consistent ...
Here are 2 five shot 50 yard targets I did.
That is a dime....Now on my next target I noticed the shots going lower and lower...I didn't change anything I was doing, so I pulled the chrono out and the rifle was shooting 485 FPS and "smoke" was coming out of the vent hole up front.
Neadless to say I have no idea what to look for at this point...Any additional help would be greatly appreciated .
Tony P.
I was shooting for the first time today a springer and it is a humbling experience for sure. I was shooting the H&N 10.6's they did better than the 10.3's...They were shooting right at 625 very consistent ...
Here are 2 five shot 50 yard targets I did.
That is a dime....Now on my next target I noticed the shots going lower and lower...I didn't change anything I was doing, so I pulled the chrono out and the rifle was shooting 485 FPS and "smoke" was coming out of the vent hole up front.
Neadless to say I have no idea what to look for at this point...Any additional help would be greatly appreciated .
Tony P.
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Usually smoke and slower are at opposite ends for me. Smoke Usually means dieseling which usually means faster here. Slower sounds like a seal gave out. The dual breech seals are a starting point. Then piston seal.
Note there usually a slight drop in fps as things break in and the spring settles. Not usually 100+ drop though.
Note there usually a slight drop in fps as things break in and the spring settles. Not usually 100+ drop though.
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So I took the entire rifle apart, not to hard at all, and found this....This "was" the new seal I bought with the Vortek kit we put in.....I cleaned everything up really good and cleaned the barrel while the rifle was apart....Back up to 719 with the H&N's, but a pretty high ES of 21....I am hoping after I shoot the rifle more the ES will come down. Not sure if it is that way because I put the old seal back in or the barrel cleaning.
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That seal failure looks weird to me like the seal was doing its job with the compression chamber but leaking around its junction with the piston. Could someone more knowledgeable comment?
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I posted this a hour ago and did not post ..
Well shoots good at first but shots drop off .
If you crony that and you shoot a "x" amount string and the fps falls / gets slower can be a too tight piston seal. Also poor seal lube / dry / wrong/ dirty.
The seal heats up expands and grabs ..
For me thats one of the things i see in mine that as you shoot it grows worse from seeming just fine first few shots of the day.. when fitting a seal its a fine line between just a little tight and just a little loose .
Well shoots good at first but shots drop off .
If you crony that and you shoot a "x" amount string and the fps falls / gets slower can be a too tight piston seal. Also poor seal lube / dry / wrong/ dirty.
The seal heats up expands and grabs ..
For me thats one of the things i see in mine that as you shoot it grows worse from seeming just fine first few shots of the day.. when fitting a seal its a fine line between just a little tight and just a little loose .
Upvote 0