Any suggestions for an Ultra Sonic Cleaner? I want one for both PCPs and Powder Burner parts.
Ultra Sonic cleaner
- Thread starter AlabamaLarry
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No real recommendation, just a suggestion. As with a gun safe, DON'T buy a small one, buy the largest that you can afford.
You will find other uses for the cleaner and some may require a larger bowl.
I purchased a .75 Gallon unit and wish that I had bought a large enough one to fit a handgun in it. Parts are okay, but larger is better in this case.
mike
You will find other uses for the cleaner and some may require a larger bowl.
I purchased a .75 Gallon unit and wish that I had bought a large enough one to fit a handgun in it. Parts are okay, but larger is better in this case.
mike
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First I bought a small cheapy unit (designed for glasses and jewelry). Then I returned it and bought a larger unit (3L) with dual transducers and a heater. I'm much happier with this unit as its way more powerful and can hold a lot more. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075FQJ995/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
I also bought this mesh basket for small/fine parts, which would probably work great for pellets!
-Michael
I also bought this mesh basket for small/fine parts, which would probably work great for pellets!
-Michael
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I no longer have one but the cheapie I had was underwhelming.
If I buy another it will be a better quality unit.
David
If I buy another it will be a better quality unit.
David
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A word of caution on the bigger units. They are significantly more powerful than the units sold to clean glasses and jewelry. I bought a 15L Vevor unit which has a decent transducer in it. The heater, however, is weak. If you want a hot bath, use hot water and also turn on the heater. The 15L size was the largest I could go before a big jump in price. It comes with a basket.
But here's the caution, do not, I repeat, do not immerse your glasses in them. A 10 second exposure removed the anti-reflection coating on my prescription reading glasses. The AR coating de-laminated and literally slid off. Fortunately I was due for new glasses.
The cleaning action is pretty good. I put machined parts in the cleaner in a closed jar of isopropyl alcohol and the parts come out really clean, especially the internal threads. No grit, no oil left, and because of using pure alcohol rather than water, no flash rust. Yes, I had to learn that the hard way... Makes sense once pointed out, hot bath of water + very clean unprotected steel = flash rust!
But here's the caution, do not, I repeat, do not immerse your glasses in them. A 10 second exposure removed the anti-reflection coating on my prescription reading glasses. The AR coating de-laminated and literally slid off. Fortunately I was due for new glasses.
The cleaning action is pretty good. I put machined parts in the cleaner in a closed jar of isopropyl alcohol and the parts come out really clean, especially the internal threads. No grit, no oil left, and because of using pure alcohol rather than water, no flash rust. Yes, I had to learn that the hard way... Makes sense once pointed out, hot bath of water + very clean unprotected steel = flash rust!
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i recently picked this one up ..kinda smaller sized..only .8 liter capacity
came with a mesh basket ..you will need to get some type of cleaning solution
1st one i have ever used, so i do not know how it stacks up to others in the same price range.
came with a mesh basket ..you will need to get some type of cleaning solution
1st one i have ever used, so i do not know how it stacks up to others in the same price range.
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Also, I typically add a little citrus degreaser or simple green to the water. Never bought the fancy solutions, but I'm sure they work for specific applications.
-Michael
-Michael
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I purchased this cleaner solution, but you can easily just use common household dishwater soaps..i wanted to see if it was any better ..meh
NEVER anything acidic ..can create lead acetate which is poisonous
NEVER anything acidic ..can create lead acetate which is poisonous
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Wow, Thanks everyone for your feed back! I have been on the fence for along time about getting one, I have never even seen one used, so have no clue as to best type for use, operation and how too's. I have had pretty good luck with Vevor products in the past, I see Harbor Freight has one some also.
I would also like to clean tools, cutlery and the wifes steam wear also.
Again thanks for all the info.
I would also like to clean tools, cutlery and the wifes steam wear also.
Again thanks for all the info.
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I bought this 6 Liter -> ultrasonic cleaner for processing my 3d printed resin parts back about two years ago. I see now the price is more then double...
This one has a heater and Fullwave,Semiwave,Degas Cleaning Modes based on 40KHz ultrasonic frequency.
I used it so much that some of the buttons wear out the colour.
The cleaning liquid solution? I tried many for my resin cleaning applications, best to search the internet/youtube what is fitting your parts.
This one has a heater and Fullwave,Semiwave,Degas Cleaning Modes based on 40KHz ultrasonic frequency.
I used it so much that some of the buttons wear out the colour.
The cleaning liquid solution? I tried many for my resin cleaning applications, best to search the internet/youtube what is fitting your parts.
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Clarify please, @WobblyHand
Did you put the closed jar of parts in Isopropyl alcohol into the bath in the cleaner, or into an empty cleaner?
Thanks
Edward
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I have a cheap small one from Harbor Freight that works well enough for me. Its big enough to hold a bolt carrier group from an AR or a disassembled pistol, though most of the time I just submerge glass jars of small parts (saves on solvent). I was worried a bigger unit would fracture some of the smaller hobby projects I use the cleaner for so this has worked well enough. It's not as fast or powerful so I just run more cycles.
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I put warm water in the cleaner. Then the parts in a small glass jar. Poured the isopropyl into the jar making sure the parts were fully covered. Then loosely put on the lid. Then the jar goes in the water. The jar does not need to be fully submerged. Run time is somewhat arbitrary, until clean.
This minimizes the amount of solvent used. The cover is simply to potentially starve of oxygen if it ignites, or more usefully, helps prevent old fumble fingers from accidentally tilting the jar too far and losing alcohol. You have to be careful with flammables. Not sure I'm doing it right, but that was my method. Depending on what I am doing, the used alcohol is stored in the jar for future use (after filtering), or disposed of. Using a glass jar and lid for storage minimizes loss.
Hope that clarifies the process. If there are safer better ways to do it, please let me know. I believe some folks put the materials in a plastic bag and cleaner, and dump that in the tank. The parts I was cleaning had sharp edges and were heavy, so I didn't want to do that. I also don't know the chemical compatibility of alcohol and whatever plastic bags are made of these days. Glass is pretty impervious to most solvents that we use.
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Just a curious question would bathing in oil work instead of alcohol? As far as flammability and rust has to be a plus.
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Somehow this response triggers in me of disaster ..just seems wrong
no proof rhat it is dangerous
like saying " We can fill the Hindenberg with Hydrogen intstead of Helium"
i wouldn't want to be the one to test it
when i did a search ..it says never to use alcohol or oils..fire risk and/or explosive
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I run 2 of the 30L vevor ultrasinics. Like them better than other chinese brands and they come with 2 frequencies. When we need to run alchohol occasionaly we do it the same way ( no heat, glass jar with alchohol and loose lid). Rest of the time deionized water and simple green ir dish soap or ultrasonic cleaner with flash rust preventative.
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Glass jar with alchohol goes into the regular water bath. If you run without the water you will fry the ultrasonics. Utrasonic vibration goes through the water, the jar wall, into the alchohol and cleans the parts.
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For the more adventurous, the cleaner does come with a lid. Me, I want to minimize the hazard a little, especially since it was being used on the kitchen counter. Also, have no idea if the seals that are used in the Vevor unit can withstand solvents. It's not likely that the seals are made of super high quality materials...
The idea was to clean the part of machining oils and swarf, so I chose 99% isopropyl alcohol, not oil. If the part was aluminum or brass, I'd use water and a single drop of detergent. Still, I'd use a small jar to hold the part and cleaner, just to keep the main assembly clean. Generally it is a good idea to minimize the dirty solvent quantities, even if water.
It's very important to put fluid in the tub, if run dry, the ultrasonic transducers will be damaged! If I recall, the transducers shatter.
The idea was to clean the part of machining oils and swarf, so I chose 99% isopropyl alcohol, not oil. If the part was aluminum or brass, I'd use water and a single drop of detergent. Still, I'd use a small jar to hold the part and cleaner, just to keep the main assembly clean. Generally it is a good idea to minimize the dirty solvent quantities, even if water.
It's very important to put fluid in the tub, if run dry, the ultrasonic transducers will be damaged! If I recall, the transducers shatter.
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