Umarex Gauntlet 22: Status update performance report

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Thanks Hajimoto for your input on the matter, I think I'll get the 0.38L tank for the moment but I'll buy the reg set to 1400PSI so I can have both tanks available for any occasion, in the meantime I'll try to polish/lapping the barrel with a soft cloth and some coarse paste to see the result, I manage to take the airstripper out to check on the barrel crown (very similar to your shown in the video), and wait a little bit more to get the full kit including your 3D printed parts, I'll report any changes or data in the corresponding threads.
PumaCarl, thanks for your comments also and where did you get the hammer spring guide kit ? or is the one on Hillairgun ?, bye.
 
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Alejandroo, I would wait for Jefferson State Air Rifles spring guide kit for the simple fact that they are still perfecting it. That is a lot of research time to one-up the competition so it is very unlikely that it won't be better. I doubt with all the work that Hajimoto has been doing that he is the type to settle for anything less than the best either. Good luck with whatever you decide but please post your formula for success when you're done. We are all interested in maximizing our Gauntlet's.
 
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My .177 is at 1100 psi .. Like most I guess.. Anyone know what size shim to bump it up close to 1200 psi ? Built my regulator tester .. It cost about $26 total becase I bought a 2000 psi 2" gauge with a 1/4" fitting so I could see it for $9, and adapter 1/4 to 1/8" for $6.. Bottle adapter with bleed off $ 11.50 shipped..

c19383bef4d53badef9fd7f7fed644c3.jpg
 
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Hello Hajimoto.
I am new to airgunning as well as this forum, so I'm gonna apologize in advance if this question is somehow out of line. I spent some time watching your videos on the Gauntlet .22 before I purchased mine. The 2 stage trigger mod. video uses a spring plunger for the second stage. Is there possibly a spring plunger available that could be used in place of the ballpoint pen spring for the first stage? I have not done the mod to the trigger for the spring plunger on the second stage yet, because, as you stated, the warranty will be void. I did however polish the trigger and the sear surfaces. I had begun to try using a small machine screw down the center of the spring to try to keep the compression action smoother against the trigger surface (to alleviate the "crunching" effect) when I decided to stop and ask you about a plunger instead.
I also wanted to mention something else I discovered in this process. I recently purchased a Work Sharp knife sharpener with 2 different blade guides (not the Ken Onion edition). This mini belt sander, supplied with 220 and 6000 grit belts, worked perfectly for polishing the trigger surfaces.
Anyway, I saw a screenshot on a different post somewhere of a press-in long nose plunger with different compression forces. One of them had an initial force of .5 lbs ending with 1.5lbs. There were various spring rates and travel lengths as well. This is what started this whole idea of the plunger as a first stage rolling around in my brain. Thanks in advance for any thoughts on this.
 
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Hello Clarence,
Thank you for watching my stuff and I hope there was some value in what you watched. As for your question about a spring plunger to replace the spring. If you go to the McMaster Carr catalog online you could research the availability of a unit to directly replace the adjustment screw. I am not sure if there is one as I have never tried this. I too have knife sharpening and belt sander equipment which do a far better job of smoothing things out. One of the things that I try to capture in my videos is the everyday guy and how he can achieve the desired results. I also try to demonstrate the method rather than referring to it. An example would be to polish the trigger to a mirror using my belt sanders and then describe to the viewer that they can achieve the same thing with polishing by hand.
If you noticed when I suggest a method, I execute it live, no retakes, risky yes, but its real and all the folks have that same level of risk, LOL
So i would recommend you browse through the catalog found here, for ideas.

https://www.mcmaster.com/
 
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"cosmic"My .177 is at 1100 psi .. Like most I guess.. Anyone know what size shim to bump it up close to 1200 psi ? Built my regulator tester .. It cost about $26 total becase I bought a 2000 psi 2" gauge with a 1/4" fitting so I could see it for $9, and adapter 1/4 to 1/8" for $6.. Bottle adapter with bleed off $ 11.50 shipped..
c19383bef4d53badef9fd7f7fed644c3.jpg
Click to expand...
You need to disassemble the reg, determine what you have for shims and then you can ballpark what you will need additionally to get to 1200. Just always make baby steps and also remember you have to exercise the regulator between shimming sessions so it will settle to give you its true output. I know this is a non-answer but you are chasing a variable that can not be measured without more data. Nice looking tester, by the way, I like it, I like it a lot (must be said in Jim Carry voice)
 
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Hi Clarence,
After reading your post and Hajimoto's, I just want to talk about my experience with the trigger, I took it apart to see the mechanism but haven't done any mod yet, I only adjust the springs tension with the screws, now my setup is a very light one stage trigger that breaks very clean (still a little creep in the first 0.5mm), I'm planning on doing the polish and see how it goes, but for now I really don't think to make it a 2 stage one because I love it in a single stage mode it's very much like my rimfire .22 (CZ452 Lux), but then again that's just about how much you like and need to have a 2 stage trigger.
Hope to be helpful in your decision and comment on what you did and how it performed, all the best.
 
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Hi Alejandroo,
Polishing my trigger/sear surfaces did not do a whole lot, as they were actually pretty smooth to start with. When I opened up the trigger assembly, I was surprised to find the inside was completely dry. There was no lube of any kind. I lubed it up with graphite grease, which obviously made it much smoother, and tried the trigger (just as a starting point). Then, I polished the surfaces. As I had stated, they were pretty smooth to start with. If I can find a plunger to replace the spring and adjustment screw, I'll keep the trigger as a single stage. And, if I can find a supplier, I'll post it in this thread.
 
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UPDATE:

Through several iterations of testing and improvements, a final "Ready for Production" variant is on its way to me and as soon it arrives I will be replacing the current prototype version and testing to be sure all is well. Once that is done, I will be shooting a video that details all the steps necessary and will explain the science behind the changes.

The light at the end of the tunnel, sorry for the delays but there were a few fitment issues that we needed to work through.
 
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When I opened up the trigger assembly, I was surprised to find the inside was completely dry. There was no lube of any kind.

Polishing the trigger now.. Mine had almost no moly in it except for the back of the trigger where the spring rides and the safety..
Click to expand...
It amazes me the wide variety of manufacturing results we can find with these Gauntlets. My trigger had enough molly in it to grease my car.
 
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