Undersea 6300 filter?

[13brv3]

Greetings,

I sort of come and go in the airgun hobby, but I'm back again. I have an old F10 Shoebox compressor that's worked well, but also recently ordered a GX CS4-I that will be here this week. Back in 2017 I ordered a filter from someone who went by Dman, and it appears the main filter component is an Undersea 6300- https://undersea-centre.com/personal-filter-including-filt . The cartridge inside (long overdue to be replaced) is their 0520 unit- https://undersea-centre.com/replacement-filter-cartridge- . At the time, it must have been recommended to order these Coltri cartridges as replacements, and I have two of these still sealed- https://filtertechs.com/shop/air-filters/coltri-max-air-nuvair/air-purification-15-series/x156712/ They do appear to be quite different from the original 0502 cartridge, though maybe more oriented toward drying, which is our primary goal. Is the Coltri cartridge a better option than the original?

If I didn't have anything now, I'd probably go straight to Joe's Alpha filter. The main difference I think it the space below the cartridge in his, where maybe he's doing something to assist in removing water (centrifugal action, or some other filtering?). The Alpha also includes the pressurizing valve at the outlet to make sure there's pressure before airflow. The Undersea doesn't have any of that, but the pressure valve could certainly be added.

I fill mostly larger air tanks, so I'd like to keep as much moisture out as possible. Any advice appreciated, particularly about the Undersea filter, which I assume will be fairly uncommon.
Thanks,
Rusty

 

[WorriedMan]

Activated charcoal controls odors and tastes in breathable compressed air, better for our purposes to have increased moisture absorbing materials over activated charcoal. The Undersea 6300, with Coltri replacement cartridge, sounds like a good molecular sieve moisture removal solution, especially in well air-conditioned or other low humidity surroundings. Higher humidity might require an additional water-coalescing filter such as can be found for $110-125 on eBay by searching, "PCP Water Coalescing filters." Cutaway diagrams explain operation, certainly a gamechanger for my humid Florida garage setup. WM

 

[Revoman]

While I don't have any input for the moisture absorption, I do have information on the 'Check Valve' that you mentioned.
I had colored it in to make sense of the interior layout. Contact information is also included.


mike

View attachment 1310 Back Press Reg O & M HPA Moisture Sep 2.pdf

 

[13brv3]

450% is a nice improvement in water absorption. Sounds like the regulator valve would be a worthwhile upgrade. Thanks.

 

[13brv3]

Thanks for the comments. Thinking about how I fill, I'm probably fine without the extra pressure regulator as well. Nearly all fills are topping off a bottle, and I let the pressure in the pump/filter/lines get close to the existing tank pressure before opening the valve on the tank. I also have a bleed valve at the tank fitting, so I could even vent a small amount to clear out the lines before opening the tank valve. I'll use the Coltri cartridges, and keep the filter vertical from now on. I also will be filling in an air conditioned room, so the humidity is controlled already.

 

[AlanMcD]

Thanks for the comments. Thinking about how I fill, I'm probably fine without the extra pressure regulator as well. Nearly all fills are topping off a bottle, and I let the pressure in the pump/filter/lines get close to the existing tank pressure before opening the valve on the tank. I also have a bleed valve at the tank fitting, so I could even vent a small amount to clear out the lines before opening the tank valve. I'll use the Coltri cartridges, and keep the filter vertical from now on. I also will be filling in an air conditioned room, so the humidity is controlled already.

You are absolutely correct that there is no need for a PMV when refilling a tank the wayt we airgunners do. A PMV really is only useful in refilling tanks from empty.

Filling from a reduced humidity air source (like an air conditioned room) will help reduce the amount of condensed water vapor that will collect after after compression, but it won't reduce the amount of water vapor that is still in your air coming out of the compressor - so a desiccant drier is still needed no matter how much humity is reduced in practice. It would take a relative humidty of less than 1% for the air entering the compressor to be be dry enough that a desiccant would not capture anything after compression . . .