Uragan (updates as I learn the gun)

Alright, I figured it out. 

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(42) is the actual adjustment that requires a 4mm hex key. Would've been a heck of a lot easier if they designed the tube to reg housing transfer port (22) to be 4mm instead of 3mm so that you didn't have to remove it to make minor adjustments.

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Degas the airgun & disconnect the tube fitting

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If you don't have the correct spanner wrench, protect the threads and use some needle nose pliers 

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Remove (22)

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Mark your original setting

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Turn CC to increase reg pressure. Note that the nut (75) is held in place by the tension from (42) and the pressure from (22). I suggest carefully holding the nut while making the adjustment and then making sure its snug.

Initially I increased the reg pressure too much (780 fps to 880 fps) so I had to go back & decrease the pressure (hence the clockwise mark)

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Finding the harmonious point of an airgun is always a balancing act. Typically I find my airguns to be most harmonious when they are driven by the regulator pressure. By that I mean the regulator has slightly more influence on the shot than the hammer (and the hammer isn't hitting or bouncing) silly hard to open the valve.

My target velocity is 830 fps with .22 JSB 18g pellets (to match my Colibri & Leshiy). 

This string was an average of 14 fps hotter than I'd like, but when I decreased the HST it was a little out of balance (to the ear). The reg pressure vs the HST is spot on because after the 70th shot it drops about 10 fps per shot. 

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Perhaps someday I'll find the time to reduce the regulator pressure just a hair. But for the time being I'm pretty happy with 70 shots @ 844 fps (28.5 FPE) on a 275b fill. Realistically I'll normally fill to about 250b, which I think was about 12 less shots.

*A few things to note:

  • It took full bottle pressure fills to properly seat the regulator adjustment (I was testing velocities at < 175b and getting false results)
  • Make sure you tighten the HST grub screw after each adjustment as it will affect your velocity as well

Best,

-Michael
 
Many, many thanks Michael.



This really is an amazing little gun for the money. Mine is also shooting the 10.34 JSB's flawlessly, but I am determined to see if I can make this thing shoot the 15.5 slugs.



Do any of you know if/where you can purchase different sized air cylinders? I would love a bottle between the compact and the full-sized. I emailed Armotech and got no response.
 
For those wanting to shoot slugs, but finding them tight loading and unreasonable velocity drop, remember, you HAVE to slug your bore, and tell Nick the dimensions one a slug has been pushed thru the choke.



These are not pellets. They do not have a thin skirt that can conform to just about any bore dimensions. It has to be done, and Nick of NSA or D-rig of varmint Knockers will size to your barrels requirements.

For shooting bullets in AG, I can't stress this requirement strongly enough. Some will get lucky and off the shelf slugs will work. Most won't. They are far superior in longer range accuracy and well worth the effort.



Also, remember, being now waist-ed, with no wind resistance stabilization, they tend to not be as accurate as a pellet at shorter ranges. They need distance to "go to sleep" as it is called.

Once they go to sleep, (stop the wobble caused by the rifling at short range), No pellet can touch them for their superior down range performance. Even though they may print lower at the beginning of their flight, they will print MUCH higher down range. Especially at 100+ yards.

KnifeMakerI




 
Sorry tsakula… these are .25 but I'm quite happy.

Not going to pretend these are competition worthy but these are dang good for me. 

75y. The blacks rings are 1 3/8 inch. Wind was from right to left and fairly constant at 10ish mph, did gust higher a couple times and just stopped for a couple shots.

Front bipod, butt was just shouldered.

All but the top right was with 33.95 MKII's at 895fps. Top left was me trying the 34gr NSA's again. I'm saving the remaining 31gr for some 100y target testing. The 34's were going about 860. 

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Michael 

when you turn CC the reg the speed goes up without turn the HST

Yes you'll have to adjust your HST as well. Remember the goal is to find a balance between the reg & HST. 

From the factory my HST did almost nothing for increasing the velocity.

Are you sure that CW you increase the bar ?

At most guns, except FX regs, you decrease CW

At mine R5M after 7 "minutes" CW, from 875 fps goes to 920 fps without touch the HST

The same at cricket, P15, Taipan, Huma regs, etc
 
Hi Mike,thanks for all the info you have so far discovered and put here for all us Uragan owners to learn.I have just got my Uragan ( .22 long ) here in the UK,like you i am disappointed with the poor information in the manual.I would like to know how to tweak and set up my new gun.My manual doe's not even show me how to adjust the trigger (first stage,second stage,etc).My manual ,like yours i think,is just a load of numbers on a schematic/map of the gun.On the schematic of the gun,in this post,would i be right in thinking part No109 is the second stage adjuster screw. ?.Please keep us up to date with any more info you discover about your gun ,even the smallest adjustments as some of us "Newbies" to PCP's are reluctant to tinker in case we void the warranty on a new gun.Thanks for listening.MikeC.
 
Got to do a bit of shooting this morning. Basically zeroing my scope and pellet culling before the heat got unbearable.

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My Uragan short likes pellets in this order:

  1. JSB 18g (840fps)
  2. JSB Hades (900fps)
  3. H&N Baracuda Hunter Extremes
  4. H&N Baracuda Hunter
  5. H&N Baracuda
  6. JSB Jumbo Monster Redesigns
  7. Predator Polymags
  8. NSA 217 19g
    [/LIST=1]

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    I love putting holes in Splatterburst targets! I used each 1'' intersection to document the vertical and horizontal clicks needed for each pellet at 25y & 50y (the extent of my range).

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    I'm guessing it didn't like the heavier pellets because it couldn't push them fast enough. Interestingly enough, every single projectile fit into the AGT magazine.
 
I've been staring at the diagram Michael posted above and at the back half of my trigger group (sear is just above the regulator fitting) and don't SEE any way to adjust it with the screws I hoped to find. I haven't been motivated to disassemble that area. My trigger is ok but there seems to be room on the sear engagement to adjust for a lighter/shorter release. I might try adjusting the length of the trigger rod a half turn one day when I have more time. If I do that, I'll report back.

Probably unrelated, but I did find that 2 of the four bolts that hold the sear housing to the rear housing were lose and partially backed out, I could spin them with my fingertip. They are a 'star' fitting so if anyone finds this on thier's'.... don't just shove a allen wrech in there.