Using the Mildot

The vertical dot line. The very top dot this is your zero. The next dot down is the next distance out. If you start your zero at the center of the cross hairs you only use half the dots. If there are are 6 dots above the horizontal , and 6 below then you start at the center you get 6 positions if you start at the top dot you get 12 reference points. If each dot is say 10 yards then you can go from zero to 120 yards if you start at the center you only got 60 yards useing 1/2 of what that mil- dot is capable of.
This worked great for me years ago with my .308 Fal. I zeroed the top dot at 100 yards , and the next dot down was 200 ect. Was only able to shoot out to 800 with this method
 
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Mmmm, I understand what you are saying. the thing is most of my shots are less than 50 yards. So I would spend the rest of my life at the bottom of my scope.

I zero at the top of the arc which is usually around 25 yards depending on the gun.
This gives me dead on aim (for pests)from just under 20 to almost 30 yards. Every other distance is hold over.
 
The vertical dot line. The very bottom dot this is your zero. The next dot up is the next distance out. If you start your zero at the center of the cross hairs you only use half the dots. If there are are 6 dots above the horizontal , and 6 below then you start at the center you get 6 positions if you start at the bottom dot you get 12 reference points. If each dot is say 10 yards then you can go from zero to 120 yards if you start at the center you only got 60 yards useing 1/2 of what that mil- dot is capable of.
Isn't that backwards?
Please explain.
No insult intended

just my 2 dots
Edward
 
@OldVet , I'll take a stab at trying to explain this. Sounds like you have it backwards. In a scope with a multi-dot reticle, the center where the main crosshairs intersect should be the aim point for zero at your chosen distance. Aim points, such as dots or tics that are below the center crosshair intersection, will add elevation to your shot, causing your shots to impact higher. Aim points above the center intersection will add declination, causing your shots to impact lower. Different shooting conditions require different aim points.

Shots that require more elevation to be on target require use of aim points below your zero (holdover). Shots that require less elevation, most commonly when shooting at angles up or down, use of aim points above the zero (holdunder). If you've ever been frustrated by trying to hit a squirrel up in a tree because you miss every time, it's because gravity is having less of an effect on the projectile arc and it is impacting above your line of sight. That is one common situation where you need holdunder or negative elevation or, in other words, an aim point above your zero aim point. That's why there are mil dots above the center crossing in a scope reticle. If you are using iron sights or a single dot site, you have to do this manually. When shooting upwards for instance, you need to aim below your desired point of impact.

Choosing your zero distance is a highly individual selection. Depending on the height of your sight above your barrel, and velocity, setting a zero distance that's relatively short compared to the projectile arc, will result in two crossings: The point of aim (POA) and point of impact (POI) will be the same at your first zero distance. For some distance beyond that, the POI will be above your POA as the projectile peaks out in its arc, and then a little bit beyond that, they will coincide again, as the projectile curves back downward and crosses your line of sight, giving you effectively two zero crossing distances.

At distances between the 1st and 2nd crossing, the projectile will be above your line of sight and you may need some declination/holdunder, an aim point above the center crosshairs to compensate. At distances shorter than the first crossing and longer than the second crossing, you will need elevation/holdover, and an aim point below the center crosshairs to compensate.

I tend to prefer to choose a zero distance that coincides with the peak of the projectile path so that there is only one crossing. All distances shorter or longer than this zero distance require only elevation/holdover. The only exception would be when shooting upwards at steep angles.

Hope this helps. Remember that your line of sight is perfectly straight but the path of the projectile is an arc as gravity works on it during its flight. I'm sure there are some other threads with illustrations that may be helpful for you.

Regards,
Feinwerk
 
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Isn't that backwards?
Please explain.
No insult intended

just my 2 dots
Edward

Correct. Using it this way youd have to have the bottom dot "zero" at 7-8y. At 10y I'm at 4.1, 15y 1.8, 20/65 .8, and 25-60 are under a half mil of deviation. The only use I get out of my upper stadia dots are holdunder on high slope angle shots and for measurement and fast range estimations. Assuming one's height over bore is 2.75-3.25"
 
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I prefer to zero at 30Y which is about optimal for pellets at normal speeds, that way all my holds closer in or farther out are holdovers only. Most of my scopes have 10 mils below the center of the reticle which means if I have to holdover more than 10 mils I'll dial instead. I'm mostly dialing nowadays anyway but if holding over I'm usually inside 5 mils so I'm not so far from center. 5 mils will get me from 90Y to 110Y or so when using pellets. I don't like shooting pellets much past 80Y anyway so..... Slugs well that's a different matter.
 
you're talking about zeroing at very close range?
Well for a powder burners my .308 Fal. I zero the top dot at 100 then each dot down is another 100 yards. For a airgun I use the center of the cross hairs at 40 yards zero then each dot down is another 10. I had a great Sargent who taught me how to use the full range of the dots when I was in the Air Force , and I just wanted to share that with anyone who might not know.
 
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@OldVet , I'll take a stab at trying to explain this. Sounds like you have it backwards. In a scope with a multi-dot reticle, the center where the main crosshairs intersect should be the aim point for zero at your chosen distance. Aim points, such as dots or tics that are below the center crosshair intersection, will add elevation to your shot, causing your shots to impact higher. Aim points above the center intersection will add declination, causing your shots to impact lower. Different shooting conditions require different aim points.

Shots that require more elevation to be on target require use of aim points below your zero (holdover). Shots that require less elevation, most commonly when shooting at angles up or down, use of aim points above the zero (holdunder). If you've ever been frustrated by trying to hit a squirrel up in a tree because you miss every time, it's because gravity is having less of an effect on the projectile arc and it is impacting above your line of sight. That is one common situation where you need holdunder or negative elevation or, in other words, an aim point above your zero aim point. That's why there are mil dots above the center crossing in a scope reticle. If you are using iron sights or a single dot site, you have to do this manually. When shooting upwards for instance, you need to aim below your desired point of impact.

Choosing your zero distance is a highly individual selection. Depending on the height of your sight above your barrel, and velocity, setting a zero distance that's relatively short compared to the projectile arc, will result in two crossings: The point of aim (POA) and point of impact (POI) will be the same at your first zero distance. For some distance beyond that, the POI will be above your POA as the projectile peaks out in its arc, and then a little bit beyond that, they will coincide again, as the projectile curves back downward and crosses your line of sight, giving you effectively two zero crossing distances.

At distances between the 1st and 2nd crossing, the projectile will be above your line of sight and you may need some declination/holdunder, an aim point above the center crosshairs to compensate. At distances shorter than the first crossing and longer than the second crossing, you will need elevation/holdover, and an aim point below the center crosshairs to compensate.

I tend to prefer to choose a zero distance that coincides with the peak of the projectile path so that there is only one crossing. All distances shorter or longer than this zero distance require only elevation/holdover. The only exception would be when shooting upwards at steep angles.

Hope this helps. Remember that your line of sight is perfectly straight but the path of the projectile is an arc as gravity works on it during its flight. I'm sure there are some other threads with illustrations that may be helpful for you.

Regards,
Feinwerk
 
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Starting at the top of the reticle and working your way down, in order to “maximize” your the “usable” mildots has been tried by several…. I believe Ted (of tedsholdover fame) shot a video or two using this method.

Solid in theory, poor practice in application.

The further you get from center, the more the effects of rifle can’t and parallax can/will bite you.