I was getting around 900 fps with my standard 177 tx 200, I put a vortek pg4ho kit in and now only getting 800 fps with 7.9 gr pellet, dose this seem about right. Steve!
Vortek pg4 kit
- Thread starter Ozwald
- Start date
That is low for a Vortek pg4ho kit. Something closer to 14-15fpe would be more typical. Check to make sure you got the correct kit and that you were not sent the Vortek 12fpe kit by mistake. Vortek has good customer service and will make things right if you call and explain your situation. Good luck.
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Yep this. Call Tom at Vortek if you have questions.
I had the same thing happen for mine. I assumed it might loosen up over time but I went back to stock with it. Some seem to increase others decrease. I figure the Vortek kit will come out sometime down the road when I have the patience for the break-in.
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Maybe. When I called I was asked to switch things back and forth, get measurements etc. I sent spring measurements and didn't hear back.
It is an easy gun to work on but a 1/2 to 3/4 day switching things around and testing was not worth the time for me.
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I just use the stock components, but polish the spring ends, fit the seal, proper lubes and set timing with spacers and washers. Smooth as butter, shoots 8.4 gn pellets at 910 fps and can cover all 40 yd shots with a dime. That was three years ago and still shoots the same...why buy a kit ??
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Thank you for all your replies, very interesting. Airshot I understand what you are saying but where do you start with the timing what thickness of shims and where to put them and how do you know when you are getting close? I do wish I had your knowledge. Thanks Steve!
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Something is off, with the factory spring and AA 8.4's mine would average 915. With the PG4 HO kit it averages 904 with the same pellet, but the shot cycle is much better.
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Along with the kit, you added/ changed lubes, polished springs changed tophat etc, now do those same things with the factory components...
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From factory components?? Perhaps a poor seal, might need shims etc... Factory just puts parts together, no tuning involved. This is the reason I recomend folks to do a tune right away with factory parts to see what the gun is really capable of. Your gun, do whatever you wish, just throwing out my experiences....
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Takes a lot of experimenting, no question about it !! Most who do this create a feel for it. I fund holding rhe gun against my cheek when it fires helos determine the smoothness as does setting the rifle on a mount to acrually watch the recoil action. The less movement the better. When the piston slames home, it will jar your cheek, sharp impulse andvthe gun moves forward more than back. When the piston bounces, it has a sharp movement both forward and backward. Finding that sweet spot with the least amount of movement is the trick. I was not unusual to take a gun apart a dozen or more times to get it right. Some don't have the patience to keep experimenting until they find that sweet spot, but when you do....you know it... But...if you change pellet weight, now you start over..
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Sorry for all the spelling errors, fat fingers and arthritus has taken it toll with these dinky little buttons !!
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I am not knocking these tunning kits... But there can be more to tunnung than just adding some kit. There are times when the factory components fail or wear out and replacements are needed...many of the aftermarket kits have better quality components so by all means go for it. I just see so many race outvto buy kits when they can achieve the same or better in some cases, results using the factory parts !! Besides, getting that gun apart will let you see if the original parts are in good shape. I always worried about left over metal chips floating around inside, or a seal that was damaged upon assembly, rough ends on the spring that can chew up internal parts as it rotates, and above anything else, get some proper lube where it belongs. Your gun do what ever you like, but there is more to a good tuneup than just replacing component parts
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I'm by no means saying factory parts can't shoot well or be made to shoot well. I had polished the ends of the factory spring, deburred the rifle and lubed with the moly left over from one of the Vortek kits I used in my 34 or 48. But you are correct, I didn't mess with a tophat. This rifle is still using the factory piston seal, I put the one supplied with the kit up for a spare.
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Thank you airshot, I have arthritis as well, and getting old. This morning I took the pg4 kit out of mt tx and put it in my pro sport .22, I was getting 700 + fps with a 14.3 pellet with factory spring and seal, with the pg4 kit I am getting 678-685 with the 14.3 pellets, but it is very nice to shoot seems smoother and shorter shot cycle.
I put the pro sport spring in the tx and was getting 785-790 still low, the tx and pro sport have new seals and breech seal as well. I have checked the breech lock up and all Is well checked for air leaks everywhere. I am at a loss. When the pro sport was new I was getting 735 fps and the tx was getting 915fps. Steve!
I put the pro sport spring in the tx and was getting 785-790 still low, the tx and pro sport have new seals and breech seal as well. I have checked the breech lock up and all Is well checked for air leaks everywhere. I am at a loss. When the pro sport was new I was getting 735 fps and the tx was getting 915fps. Steve!
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I had mine tuned so it was 11.6 FPE i am thinking of getting another and tune for 9.8 or 10.2 FPE both using 8,64 pellets.
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Lots of differences in sprungs, the material used to make them, the heat treat method used to give them memory and the speed at which they return...in my many yesrs in the mechanical field, there have been numerous times the same heat treat method used for the same material did not come out with the same results. For the price of a spring and what they need to go thru, it us amazing they last as long as they do!! This brings me to the point....you need to fine tune the timing of the piston travel to get the absolute best performance out of any spring. The only way I ever found to maximize perfirmance is thru getting that timing just right... Everything is a variable in these springers, from shims on the springs to weight of the pellet, heat treatment of the springs...etc. One of my oldvtrickscwas to get max velocity, then start playing with shims/ weights to get the shot cycle smooth. Ibused to have a variety of top hats in various materials, from brass, steel, plastic, and flat weights from the same materials and even washers from different materials just to experiment in order to get that perfect shot cycle.. Lots of work but when you find it....makes those accurate and those offhand shots a piece of cake!!!
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