Walnut Prosport Stock

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josh3rd

josh3rd

Member
Apr 2, 2015
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Newark, Delaware, United States
I just got a new walnut stock for a Prosport a while back. I have some questions.

1. Is the stock already sealed?

2. How to tell if it's sealed?

3. If it isn't sealed and I already started wiping the metal and wood with ballistol, is it good or bad?

4. If it isn't sealed and already has ballistol wiped on it,is that considered being sealed?



5. If it isn't sealed and already has ballistol init and a stock needs to be sealed, do I have to remove the ballistol to apply a sealant? If so, how do you remove the ballistol?



Thanks in advance.



Cross posted 


 
Are you refering to the outside of the stock, or the inletting where the action sets?? On my TX walnut stock, I just used the beeswax furniture spray all over. Beeswax is a natural moisture proofer, wont harm the finnish, compatible with most anything. I use it to lube my pellets and keep finger prints off the metal. Used it on my MK1 walnut stock for over 25 years and it looked excellent the day I foolishly sold it... Currently have a walnut MK3 and the beeswax makes the stock look awesome!! Sprayed heavily where the stock was inletted to keep moisture out. Highly recomended to me by the Amish craftsman that made all our furniture in our home.
 
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I just got a new walnut stock for a Prosport a while back. I have some questions.

1. Is the stock already sealed?

2. How to tell if it's sealed?

- Are the inlets for the receiver, trigger etc. any different than the finished out side? If not, it;s had no finish applied.

3. If it isn't sealed and I already started wiping the metal and wood with ballistol, is it good or bad?

- Depends on the finish you intend to use. If you go for a hand rubbed oil finish, the mineral oil in ballistol shoudl not have any ill effects. Has it changed the look of the wood at all? If not, then it is highly likely that some finish is already present. If it has effected the look of the wood, then it may well be unfinished.



4. If it isn't sealed and already has ballistol wiped on it,is that considered being sealed?

- It would be the very beginnings of a hand rubbed oil finish. If you chose to go such a way, you might want to rub on some coats of boiled linseed or tru-oil etc.



5. If it isn't sealed and already has ballistol init and a stock needs to be sealed, do I have to remove the ballistol to apply a sealant? If so, how do you remove the ballistol?

- See above, switching to a more common finish oil should not require removing the mineral oil.






 
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5. If it isn't sealed and already has ballistol init and a stock needs to be sealed, do I have to remove the ballistol to apply a sealant?
Click to expand...

Ballistol is mineral oil, also known as baby oil and I wouldn't recommend it for wood.

Post some pictures of your stock when you have the time.
Click to expand...

Curious why you say this. I can't find any negative info on using mineral oil, just positive.
 
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I can't imagine AA shipping a wood stock that has not been sealed or finished with some material. Many times stock finishes are referred to as "oiled" or "hand rubbed", which only means the stock has an appearance similar to an old-fashioned hand-rubbed finish produced with a material like linseed oil. An "oiled" finish is not glossy, and may or may not leave the pores visible or unfilled depending on the thickness of the applied finish. My recently received Anschutz 1761 has an "oiled" finish that is matte in appearance, but perfectly smooth, with no pores visible. It is my understanding that the AA walnut stocks have a finish that is so thin that most or all of the pores are still visible on the surface of the wood.

Factory gun stocks used to be finished with conventional lacquers. These would dry quickly, but were not very durable and were succeptible to softening from skin oils. I do not believe these are used any more due to them containing high percentages of VOCs. Not too long ago I had a small table top refinished and was told the finish would consist of two coats of a gloss catalytic finish, followed by a top coat of the same material in matte. I think it is likely that a very thin application of a similar modern furniture grade finish has been applied to your stock. If you do not want to change the appearance of your stock, you only need to wipe it down after each use to prevent the accumulation of dirt and skin oil. I use the Birchwood Casey silicone impregnated cloths sold for use on guns and reels. Modern finishes are very durable and do not generally need protection. My only concern would be that the applied finish is so thin that it is not water resistant, although I don't think that would be the case. The silicone in the Birchwood Casey cloths will add another layer of water resistance if that is a concern. I have used them for decades on stocks with both lacquered and more modern finishes with no problems whatsoever.

I am more confident in the compatibility of silicone protectants with wood finishes than I am mineral oil, if that is the major component of Ballistol. To remove any remaining mineral oil, you can just wipe down the stock with a rag lightly wet with mineral spirits.

I use Minwax Antique Oil on unfinished wood, and to restore finishes on furniture and gun stocks. It is a linseed oil based product with driers and hardeners added, similar to TruOil. Applied over an existing finish it will build gloss quickly since it will not soak into the wood. I would not use it if you want to retain the current appearance of your stock.




 
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Common for British walnut stocks to have very little finish. BSA, Air Arms, UK Webley, and even my Theoben has a thin finish. Minwax antique oil will fix you up. Tru oil builds up a plastic layer.and too glossy. Many custom stock makers use the Minwax.Antique Oil.

You might find this helpful. Joe can be a little squirrely IMHO but he shows good technique here. Put it right over the original finish. No more mineral oil ! Wipe down good with mineral spirits first to wash that baby oil off.

Joe has other good stock videos as well. Just saying, I don't care for his mouth sometimes. NBD

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ygaKF7kTSuQ
 
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I have refinished several walnut stocks, and at the advice of an old friend who worked fine woods for a living. The best way to finish a rifle stock, especially walnut, was a 50/50 mixture of turpentine and linseed oil. it takes several coats to build a finish, but once done it is very durable and looks beautiful. Two of my own rifles have walnut stocks with this finish and I love it. just two pennies from me. 
 
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