I just got an old Walther LP 53. What would be the best lube for the piston seal, not knowing the material neatsfoot oil or silicone oil?
Walther LP 53
- Thread starter jkingrph
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Generally, for a stock leather piston seal, you want the neatsfoot oil. I use just silicone oil in mine (although it's not really needed) as I installed a teflon piston seal. I have used silicone oil on my pistols with leather seals though, and not seen an issue (knock on wood).
Chris
Chris
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I've read that a 50/50 mix of neatsfoot and silicone is a happy medium. But I've also heard that neatsfoot has a propensity to diesel, so I've stuck with using only silicone oil and it seems to revive leather just fine.
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Got to be honest and say i just use a simple Parkerhale Express gun oil, or Crosman Pellgun..
Its said that such mineral lubes rot leather, but of course used on old Leather Sealed BSAs for Eons, right back to the early part of 20 th century, many of the guns still with serviceable seals.
Ive not noticed any rotting…and not enough power for dieseling after a few clearing shots.
Silicone a little risky on Alloy/Steel interface but i have used that too with no noticeable ill effects.
Keep the moly out of pistols….it slows them….
Its said that such mineral lubes rot leather, but of course used on old Leather Sealed BSAs for Eons, right back to the early part of 20 th century, many of the guns still with serviceable seals.
Ive not noticed any rotting…and not enough power for dieseling after a few clearing shots.
Silicone a little risky on Alloy/Steel interface but i have used that too with no noticeable ill effects.
Keep the moly out of pistols….it slows them….
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I decided to go with the silicone, the most inert, less subject to oxidation. I put a few drops in the exhaust port last night, and set the gun up so it would drain down into the cylinder, Partially, and I mean manually cycled the piston a few times, stopping before a cocked position then took it out for a few minutes this morning, Cold and wet so did not stay but for a very short time, It's putting out a rather consistant 325 fps, don't know what is normal for that gun and have been unable to find any specs. Makes a soda can jump nicely.
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If you cock the gun, making certain there is nothing in the barrel. Then put your thumb over the muzzle, sealing it, and pull the trigger, do you get get a little puff of air when you move your thumb a second or two after firing? If not, you may need a breach seal. If the breach seal is good, try just ordering a spring mod kit or do Steveoo's spring modification, either way, loose that concentric double spring that's in it now. The spring is easy to change out, it's just under that cap on bottom of the grip frame. You can easily open/close it with your hands.
Mine made right at 400fps with 7 grain pellets when I first got it. I changed out the spring and piston seal and it now makes around 440-450fps.
Chris
Mine made right at 400fps with 7 grain pellets when I first got it. I changed out the spring and piston seal and it now makes around 440-450fps.
Chris
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How hard is it to change the piston seal and spring. I do have a new breech seal on order as this one looks totally flat? Can you provide info or a link for this steveoo's spring mod? Did not realize he had posted earlier. I was searching for parts and see some listing for a I think a teflon piston seal, would that be better than leather?
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Well, it looks like I screwed things up a bit. Took the spring out ok, then trying to see if the guide and piston would come out, so cycled like I was going to cock it and now cannot get springs back in, any Ideas, on anyone in the states to work on one of these?
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I used the teflon seal, they work great. If you found the seal, you probably found the spring mod, look here:
That is the one I used. The piston cap is here:
www.trrobb.com I'll Let Steveoo chime in on his threads, but suffice to say, they are not hard to find with the search. He is probably the best source of info you'll find about these pistols.
The pistol is not hard to disassemble, download an exploded drawing online. Don't remove the trigger stuff, just the cocking, sear and piston parts. The sear is a bit fiddly as it has a small coil spring up inside to contend with. But I'd bet anyone who knows which end of a wrench is which can figure it out fairly quickly. Oh yeah, this is a "Properly" built pistol, it uses shims to make up for any "Slop". Take note of where they go when you pull them out and put them back in where they came from. They will be in the cocking arm hinge and main hinge between barrel and lower unit. Use a brass drift punch and a roll of tape or a firearm puck (?) if you have one.
Hope that helps
Chris
That is the one I used. The piston cap is here:
Walther LP 53 Air Pistol PTFE Piston Head
Walther LP 53 Air Pistol Piston PTFE washer to replace the old inconsistent leather one. Fits our Stainless Steel adaptor, it then fits the same as the old one, offset key hole type. I have tried to make these with less slop than the standard one as this can lose power. I have made them with a...
www.trrobb.com The pistol is not hard to disassemble, download an exploded drawing online. Don't remove the trigger stuff, just the cocking, sear and piston parts. The sear is a bit fiddly as it has a small coil spring up inside to contend with. But I'd bet anyone who knows which end of a wrench is which can figure it out fairly quickly. Oh yeah, this is a "Properly" built pistol, it uses shims to make up for any "Slop". Take note of where they go when you pull them out and put them back in where they came from. They will be in the cocking arm hinge and main hinge between barrel and lower unit. Use a brass drift punch and a roll of tape or a firearm puck (?) if you have one.
Hope that helps
Chris
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Like I said, I screw up and cocked it with the mainsprings removed, now I cannot get the spring back in, it looks like the piston is in the cocked position. Even pushing on it and pulling the trigger it will not release and move up so I can replace the spring. Can anyone give any suggestions on how to make it release?
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Ok….
For what is the simplest gun in the whole world for spring removal, and adding a Proteks kit, or similar, things can suddenly take a dramatic turn for the worse, when you want to go deeper into the gun and remove that piston.
So you could swap out the springs and change them for a kit for fun.
The reason this part is so easy, is because the grip cap just needs unwinding…easiest and fastest spring removal all time…I have managed extraction and replacement in 20 seconds.
Now stop there…
If you want to go further to remove the piston and replace the seal, you need to remove the cocking pawl, sear component and small 6mm spring to the rear of it. Refitting that sear might just be the most tricky task in airguns…you been warned.
To do it, you need to
1) Remove the mainspring set as described above. (easy)
2) unscrew the barrel pivots and remove the barrel (do not lose the barrel shims) (easy)
3 disengage the tiny ant bear trap, pushing it downward and pull the trigger. (easy)
4)You can now push that piston back in with a screwdriver.
5) to remove the piston completely, remove the pin below the grip that pivots the sear.
6) release the sear (mind the little spring under mild tension below it and store safely.)
7) withdraw the piston using a screwdriver in the cocking slot…Easy
Reverse the above to get the gun reassembled….
Trigger must be pulled while fitting the sear back in.. A real PITA
One tip here….use s womans hairband around the trigger blade and over the beaver tail, to keep the trigger pulled, freeing up your other hand to allow easier fitting of sear and driving pivot pin back through it.
For what is the simplest gun in the whole world for spring removal, and adding a Proteks kit, or similar, things can suddenly take a dramatic turn for the worse, when you want to go deeper into the gun and remove that piston.
So you could swap out the springs and change them for a kit for fun.
The reason this part is so easy, is because the grip cap just needs unwinding…easiest and fastest spring removal all time…I have managed extraction and replacement in 20 seconds.
Now stop there…
If you want to go further to remove the piston and replace the seal, you need to remove the cocking pawl, sear component and small 6mm spring to the rear of it. Refitting that sear might just be the most tricky task in airguns…you been warned.
To do it, you need to
1) Remove the mainspring set as described above. (easy)
2) unscrew the barrel pivots and remove the barrel (do not lose the barrel shims) (easy)
3 disengage the tiny ant bear trap, pushing it downward and pull the trigger. (easy)
4)You can now push that piston back in with a screwdriver.
5) to remove the piston completely, remove the pin below the grip that pivots the sear.
6) release the sear (mind the little spring under mild tension below it and store safely.)
7) withdraw the piston using a screwdriver in the cocking slot…Easy
Reverse the above to get the gun reassembled….
Trigger must be pulled while fitting the sear back in.. A real PITA
One tip here….use s womans hairband around the trigger blade and over the beaver tail, to keep the trigger pulled, freeing up your other hand to allow easier fitting of sear and driving pivot pin back through it.
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Notes on kits.
I designed the original kit, but having my idea copied and put into production by someone that did not do as i had described.
The kit is not too bad, but the individual wound his own mainspring which is not the best and made the guide way too tight.
You could buy the kit and chop a Cometa 50 or even better HW30 mainspring to 18 coils to replace the poor spring.
The kit gives 50 fps, the HW30 spring and kit guide, or home machined guides can make 70fps +
This puts a decent 430 - 440 fps 53 into 500 fps territory.
The unskilled should probably stop there.
I designed the original kit, but having my idea copied and put into production by someone that did not do as i had described.
The kit is not too bad, but the individual wound his own mainspring which is not the best and made the guide way too tight.
You could buy the kit and chop a Cometa 50 or even better HW30 mainspring to 18 coils to replace the poor spring.
The kit gives 50 fps, the HW30 spring and kit guide, or home machined guides can make 70fps +
This puts a decent 430 - 440 fps 53 into 500 fps territory.
The unskilled should probably stop there.
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My own kit which Proteks copied....
But mine having used a HW30 mainspring (Probably the worlds most reliable long lasting mainspring) chopped to 18 coils and flattened one end
Delrin guides to slip over existing grip cap guide.
But mine having used a HW30 mainspring (Probably the worlds most reliable long lasting mainspring) chopped to 18 coils and flattened one end
Delrin guides to slip over existing grip cap guide.
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I contacted Protek and due to the problem with Royal Mail they are not shipping overseas. You say your kit which they copied, do you make up kits for sale? I have never worked on a spring like that, and doubt my ability to make guides. Most of my expertise goes into woodworking, not machine type work.
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I have provided maybe 30 kits in the UK but not oversees.
I am surprised Proteks are not shipping.
I can give you the dimensions if you wish to get a tuner to machine the parts for you.
I am surprised Proteks are not shipping.
I can give you the dimensions if you wish to get a tuner to machine the parts for you.
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I may wait a few weeks and see if Protek can start shipping, In the meantime I will try to find a good schematic on the gun, with parts labeled.
You mention removing barrel and pushing an "ant bear trap " down, where is this part and how do you identify it? not of the parts breakdown pictures I can find show a beartrap.
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Another tip: When you are re-assembling the sear and the spring behind it, put a dab of grease on the end of the spring and carefully put it in position over the tab in the casting. The grease will provide enough "sticktion" to hold the spring pretty well if you are careful.
The tip about the rubber band around the trigger is a good one, remember that one.
I got my spring set from Protek like a month ago. Wonder what happened...
Steveoo, do you not like the guide that comes with the Protek kit?
Chris
The tip about the rubber band around the trigger is a good one, remember that one.
I got my spring set from Protek like a month ago. Wonder what happened...
Steveoo, do you not like the guide that comes with the Protek kit?
Chris
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