I disassembled my LP53 to install a new Piston seal (TR Robb variety). The sear will not line up for replacement of the pin. What is the trick to replacing the sear? Thanks.
Tuning Walther LP53 reassembly problem
- Thread starter Luckyshot
- Start date
First glue the little pawl spring to the little spigot with a touch of Moly and align the sear over it. Make sure the piston is halfway down its stroke ...Then lower the little anti bear trap in the housing body, and pull the trigger....which should now allow the sear to move about the alignment hole for the pin.
I find it easiest to shove a pin punch through the hole when its aligned as opposed to trying to drive the pin in while trying to get the holes to line up.
You can then drive the pin in from the other side , until driving out the pin punch...
Any problems PM me and i will walk you through it.
I find it easiest to shove a pin punch through the hole when its aligned as opposed to trying to drive the pin in while trying to get the holes to line up.
You can then drive the pin in from the other side , until driving out the pin punch...
Any problems PM me and i will walk you through it.
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Steveoo, thanks. I was on the right track on all except for the piston placement part. The key for me was your comment about making sure the piston was at the halfway mark, which meant that the sear need be located in the notch in the piston housing. My LP53 is back to printing holes in the bull.
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Back to work on the LP53 due to very inconsistent velocity (>20fps). Any recommendations for lubing the piston, cylinder and springs? I replaced the original piston seal with the TR Robb Teflon unit. Also, should the springs be re-installed in opposition to each other. I didn't pay attention during disassembly. Thanks.
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You will not get much better than 20 fps variation while staying with the OEM duel spring set because the main outer spring has to ride over the smaller inner spring.....essentially acting as the worst possible guide rod for the larger spring. 
Much better to go with how I run the gun with a HW30 mainspring on a delrin guide set....approx 5 fps variation and 80 fps more velocity.
The Alloy cylinder, running a hard chrome piston is best served by Superlube with PTFE....nothing Silicone as recommended by TR for his seals ....it will wreck the alloy. Moly just slows pistols, especially that TBT stuff as it is essentially a stay put damper.....Go with a thinner, low friction grease then...Superlube or Lubriplate Original white grease both work superbly ..I am running both lubes side by side with no noticeable diff and no issues, but the lubriplate is a bit more useful for the barrel latch mechanism and pivot.....the Superlube maybe giving an extra 10 fps but could be coming from the gun just as easily....hard to tell.
Much better to go with how I run the gun with a HW30 mainspring on a delrin guide set....approx 5 fps variation and 80 fps more velocity.
The Alloy cylinder, running a hard chrome piston is best served by Superlube with PTFE....nothing Silicone as recommended by TR for his seals ....it will wreck the alloy. Moly just slows pistols, especially that TBT stuff as it is essentially a stay put damper.....Go with a thinner, low friction grease then...Superlube or Lubriplate Original white grease both work superbly ..I am running both lubes side by side with no noticeable diff and no issues, but the lubriplate is a bit more useful for the barrel latch mechanism and pivot.....the Superlube maybe giving an extra 10 fps but could be coming from the gun just as easily....hard to tell.
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My LP53 is back in action. Since it is strictly a target shooter, power is not really important. However consistency is. After removing the springs and piston, I cleaned up the excess molly I went a little crazy with when installing the new Teflon piston seal. There is now no more than about 3 fps variance after 10 shots over my chrony. Something I found interesting is that if I use a pellet insertion probe, velocity increases from 378fps to 410 using Crosman Premier target ammo. As a cross reference, I tried the same experiment with RWS Basic pellets. Velocity went from 401 to 429fps. I expected a small increase. But I was surprised that pellet insertion would produce so large an increase.
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Its because the breech on these needs a slight chamfer to break the edge. You can use a brass round head screw and some Autosol to polish a better entry ...
However, with your pellet push you are not to bad for a OEM 53...usually maxing at around 430 fps without the mods i describe...
If you want accuracy however, you should worry about velocity....very much so...
Running 500 fps plus my accuracy improved leaps and bounds, probably due to the pellet exiting the barrel before the recoil, and flatter trajectory and wind bucking....
However, with your pellet push you are not to bad for a OEM 53...usually maxing at around 430 fps without the mods i describe...
If you want accuracy however, you should worry about velocity....very much so...
Running 500 fps plus my accuracy improved leaps and bounds, probably due to the pellet exiting the barrel before the recoil, and flatter trajectory and wind bucking....
Upvote 0