Washing Crosman Premier Pellets

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deadaim

deadaim

Member
Apr 18, 2015
107
36
California, United States
I picked up several tins of Crosman Premier Pellets for use in my AEA Semi-automatic pistol. These pellets are harder and may cycle better than the JSBs that are made of softer lead. When I opened up the tin, the new pellets were shiny and but had lots lead shards so I washed them with a few drops of Dawn soap. Triple washed them and dried them on a paper towel. Originally, the pellets are shiny and now they are dull albeit clean. What is going on here?

Crosman.1639436124.jpeg


Crosman2.1639436142.jpeg


New unwashed (Left) Washed (Right)
 
FWIW….

If you haven’t done so, on your next tin, inspect and remove lead shards but don’t clean the lube from them. Shoot say, three groups of ten at your preferred distance. Clean, lube, love on, size, whatever it is you feel compelled to do to another thirty. Shoot them in groups of ten. This will tell you what is the best preparation for you particular ammo and gun. 
There is no single prep, lube or sorting that works in every case. 

 
Upvote 1
WD-40 will cause your o-rings to deteriorate if you use it. Use a pure silicone oil on them OR another good pellet lube that doesn’t seem to hurt o-rings is full synthetic 2cycle oil.
I lube my old Eun-jin 43gr pellets with the full synthetic for my gen1 marauder. It makes a noticeable difference washing them and lubing them and sorting out the obvious defective ones. I cut out a liner from a couple layers of blue shop paper towels to line the bottom of a pellet canister and put about 8-10 drops of the full synthetic oil on the paper towel. After it has soaked through and the whole liner has absorbed the oil you can put a couple dozen pellets in the can and with the lid on you can gently shake them around, trying to roll them around on the liner. After a few seconds they are all lubed. Transfer them to a clean pellet can and repeat until you’ve lubed all the washed pellets that you plan on using that day. If you try this you’ll need to add a few drops back to the paper towel each time you put new pellets in. 
Your lubed pellets should have a thin layer of oil on them but not enough to be dripping wet. Works great.
 
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I triple washed mine in white gas (Coleman fuel) till they did not discolor a white paper towl when rolling them dry. They were always shiny and did not discolor very quickly. We lubed with Slick50 1Lube at the time for FT and the difference in accuracy was noticeable. My experience with Dawn was not that good. I've tried brake cleaner and other stuff but it's expensive and no better. Acetone was not too good. Lacquer thinner was a little better but white gas was the best economical option for me.

Bob
 
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I use the Premiers way more than any other pellet in 177. I think if you weigh and size them you will get more accuracy and less deformation than washing and lubing. If I shoot less than 50yds, which is 95% of my 177 shooting, none of that is worth it for me. I use a boatload of Premiers and I do put some Slick 50 on a piece of cloth and keep it in the tin after removing the debris. It is just enough to keep the pellets from going dry or oxidizing etc.

Heavy lube doesn't do anything for my guns shooting Premiers. Alan Z uses the Slick 50 and it does work good over 50 yards for my older Rapid 25cal he built. 

I read some of the hardcore 10 meter guys found you really have to be very delicate with the pellets or you do more harm than good washing and weighing them etc. They are easy to slightly deform which will negate the positive effect of washing. Some people have a ton of time on their hands and can make these conclusions. 




 
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I started washing because I thought the Crosman pellets were dirty, now that I learned it is graphite no more washing. I am going to dump the pellets into a strainer basket to remove the "shards" A can of compressed air may help knock off the loose particles. Afterwards, I'll put it back in the tin and shoot them as is. It should be good enough for plinking with my semi-auto AEA pistol.
 
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When I shot them I would just use light air pressure and a strainer to blow off the debris then use beeswax to lube my pellets. Been using beeswax for about 40 yrs with O issues. It comes in a spray for furniture, not toxic, safe, good smell, natural lubricant, no buildup, makes cleaning the barrel a breeze. Has improved the accuracy in every single gun I have ever owned. Very popular with the Brits in there 12 fpe rifles. To make it easy, I use a piece of cotton cloth mabey 12" long x 6-8" wide and spray a dollup of beeswax in the middle, then add a fistfull of pellets. Pick uo each end of the cloth and by raising and lowering each end will allow the pellets to tumble back and forth and transfer the lube with no damage to the pellets!! This can be done with other lubes as well. This method keeps excess lube out of the pellet skirt which is critical for springers. After using beeswax, a simple patch thru your barrel with a quick shot of beeswax spray easily removes any crud and you dont need 50 shots to season your barrel. I have moved to AA pellets as they have little or no swarf on them, but still lube them with beeswax!!! Beeswax also works as a waterproofer and sealer for your stock, wont harm the finnish and will seal the inside from moisture.
 
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AirShot was kind enough to share his Beeswax lubing technique with me a few months ago. I tried it and it works just as he says. My bores stay cleaner, longer and they clean with only a couple dry patches. The accuracy is also noticeably better. I’ve tried all kinds of lubes, chain waxes and oils and the Beeswax method is by far the best I’ve used to date.

BTW, I use acetone to clean my pellets first and it works well for me.

https://www.anniescatalog.com/detail.html?prod_id=112168&cat_id=1903




 
Upvote 0
AirShot said:
When I shot them I would just use light air pressure and a strainer to blow off the debris then use beeswax to lube my pellets. Been using beeswax for about 40 yrs with O issues. It comes in a spray for furniture, not toxic, safe, good smell, natural lubricant, no buildup, makes cleaning the barrel a breeze. Has improved the accuracy in every single gun I have ever owned. Very popular with the Brits in there 12 fpe rifles. To make it easy, I use a piece of cotton cloth mabey 12" long x 6-8" wide and spray a dollup of beeswax in the middle, then add a fistfull of pellets. Pick uo each end of the cloth and by raising and lowering each end will allow the pellets to tumble back and forth and transfer the lube with no damage to the pellets!! This can be done with other lubes as well. This method keeps excess lube out of the pellet skirt which is critical for springers. After using beeswax, a simple patch thru your barrel with a quick shot of beeswax spray easily removes any crud and you dont need 50 shots to season your barrel. I have moved to AA pellets as they have little or no swarf on them, but still lube them with beeswax!!! Beeswax also works as a waterproofer and sealer for your stock, wont harm the finnish and will seal the inside from moisture.
Click to expand...
Will try this method in the following weeks. Used to lube with Slick50 back when I was still shooting airguns..
 
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