Is your humidity rate where your at close to 70’s range normally or are you at a lower rate? I ask bc you said yours is bad too. Thank you for your post definitely helps me learn from you guys.
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Water oil separator’s with Gxcs4 will this setup work
- Thread starter Bigbuckairgunner39
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but I think it can be fully bought for 250 filter with sieve and fittings but your definitely right probably big difference in the safety of the devices with his bc the threads in one of these units shoot hold on I’ll show yall. Don’t look the best but yall tell me.
it’s got a good bit of threads but they do have dings and crap in them which makes me wonder how strong this thing actually is if it has chips of the threads here and there.
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BigBuck, I'm no expert in these things, but I don't think using multiple air dryers is the solution. First, you start with the assumption that the desiccant doesn't begin working until 1,800 PSI, which I don't think is correct. So for me, adding additional dryers isn't the answer, it's rather keeping the desiccant fresh, where the amount of desiccant is sufficient to begin with. And then I see something about a pressure regulator which makes no sense to me, because it appears that you're not building towards a solution but building towards atrophy.
You said you're filling scuba tanks in a humid environment. So did you look to see what those who fill scuba tanks use? What do they use in Miami Beach? Because it's very hot and humid there where they fill lots of scuba tanks. And the setup you have going, I don't think they'd use that.
Also, I think modern airgun internals are made of rust-resistant alloys, so I don't think humidity is that big a problem, I think it's more a matter of having air of consistent humidity (density) to thereby achieve consistent accuracy. Of course I'm not going to fill my airguns with wet air, but I'm not going to be too concerned with trying to achieve bone-dry air either. So good luck with your project, I hope it works out for you.
You said you're filling scuba tanks in a humid environment. So did you look to see what those who fill scuba tanks use? What do they use in Miami Beach? Because it's very hot and humid there where they fill lots of scuba tanks. And the setup you have going, I don't think they'd use that.
Also, I think modern airgun internals are made of rust-resistant alloys, so I don't think humidity is that big a problem, I think it's more a matter of having air of consistent humidity (density) to thereby achieve consistent accuracy. Of course I'm not going to fill my airguns with wet air, but I'm not going to be too concerned with trying to achieve bone-dry air either. So good luck with your project, I hope it works out for you.
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Glad I came across this thread. My CS4 is being delivered today and I was in the process of figuring out filtration. Called Joe and got on the list for an Alpha filter instead of trying to DIY.
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Sorry your wrong on that point. Picture to follow soon. Edit: This is a air tube steel, also scba bottles that have a aluminum bottle wrapped in fiberglass or what ever will pit over time. Sorry I forgot the terminology of the pitting just brain dead in my old age but someone will mention it. Keep the air as dry as possible like dive shop air.
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Kayaker, the word "pitting" works for me. Those photos show what I meant by rust-resistant, I didn't mean rust-proof. And what I said about humidity was from my point of view, my stuff doesn't look like that, I misspoke before about humidity. Thanks for the photos, I've decided to use a desiccator from now on.
What were you using as an air dryer? I've been using cotton tampons in a brass cylinder, I let the air out between use. And I've some old pump airguns, I put silicone grease and oil in them, they still work well after decades.
What were you using as an air dryer? I've been using cotton tampons in a brass cylinder, I let the air out between use. And I've some old pump airguns, I put silicone grease and oil in them, they still work well after decades.
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I've looked in the cylinder of my Gamo Arrow after months of use, it was dry inside. So my advice, take a look inside if you have the mechanical know-how, it was fairly simple on mine, the firing valve unscrewed from the cylinder using my hands. I'll be running a desiccator and looking in my cylinder from time to time from now on.
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Never filled my guns with bottles. Always straight from the compressors. Never had a moisture problem and have never used a filter of any kind except for what comes on my GX compressors.
I do live in dry west Texas though.
I do live in dry west Texas though.
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I run one inline TUXING moisture filter "just in case" in my compressor setup. Probably don't need even this as here in California there is not much, if any, moisture in the air especially during the summer, kind of the same as in Texas. We get only one month of rain here when I don't shoot anyway, so no problem with moisture getting into my PCPs 
. But I really dig @Bigbuckairgunner39's makeshift setup, duct tape is the way to go .
. But I really dig @Bigbuckairgunner39's makeshift setup, duct tape is the way to go .Upvote 0
Nuvair.com sirIt will slow fill times but it should work. I have read the same thing you speak of. For best filtration the air need to pressurize before it starts flowing into the gun. Otherwise the first bit of air will just rush past the media and not filter well. Please post up where you find this 2000 psi valve for the top. I’m interested in one as well.
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Thanks buddy!I run one inline TUXING moisture filter "just in case" in my compressor setup. Probably don't need even this as here in California there is not much, if any, moisture in the air especially during the summer, kind of the same as in Texas. We get only one month of rain here when I don't shoot anyway, so no problem with moisture getting into my PCPs
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