Water separator for small compressor

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I think the desiccant type is the same as most people are using. The amount is probably the difference. Since I'm only using one pump boosted at only about 10 psi when nearing 300 bar the volume of air passing through the desiccant per unit time is a lot less than your dual pumps at a higher boost. If I ever get my planned mods done it will remove more water using 75 PSI through the desiccant filter vs only 10 psi and only flowing air through it on the intake stroke of the pump. So the average air flow should be reduced. This is because my pump leaks input air even when it not taking air in.
 
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desiccant needs dwell time to work you are better off at apx 15psi than 75psi maybe plus a little for your leakage. it does depend on your elevation above sea level as to your local atmospheric pressure, only need, to be a bit above that. I really have not looked at deisccant dynamics vs pressure in depth per say other than noting pressures over 100 psi are useless and the abilities of various materials used. for our purposes silca gell is fine with a partical rating of 3 as water is 4. multiple layers of course to fine work better than one big pile of same size. You do need to filter the exiting air before allowing to enter the compressor due to dust from gel beads.
 
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beerthief said:
where did you find / buy this ? Thanks
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Here are two links two sources. The first link is a very reputable source but 50% more in price. The eBay one, if new, is a much better price. The valve is made by multiple sources but Thermo and Sherwood are the two biggies in that type of valve. Both are of equal quality. If you google “inline thermo or sherwood scuba valve” you should get a lot of sources.

www.breathingair.com

YVA3010 Line Valve 6000PSI

DetailsLine Valve (YVA3010)6000PSI Air Control Valve 1/4" Male NPT X 1/4" NPT Female thread. Sherwood style.Includes:Soft Seat Valve
www.breathingair.com www.breathingair.com

www.ebay.com

High Pressure Breathing Air SCBA Line Valve 1/4" NPT 6000 PSI | eBay

Replaces Sherwood Valve # YVA3010. 1/4" Inlet / 1/4" Outlet.
www.ebay.com
 
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Bladesx said:
desiccant needs dwell time to work you are better off at apx 15psi than 75psi maybe plus a little for your leakage. it does depend on your elevation above sea level as to your local atmospheric pressure, only need, to be a bit above that. I really have not looked at deisccant dynamics vs pressure in depth per say other than noting pressures over 100 psi are useless and the abilities of various materials used. for our purposes silca gell is fine with a partical rating of 3 as water is 4. multiple layers of course to fine work better than one big pile of same size. You do need to filter the exiting air before allowing to enter the compressor due to dust from gel beads.
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Not in my case the flow rate through the desiccant is only dependent on the input pressure to the pump and the pump's cyclic rate. Neither of these change when I pressurize the desiccant filter to 75PSI, only the air and thus water density inside the filter is increased. Remember I plan to add a secondary regulator.
 
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crittahitta said:
Would copper be able to handle 4500 psi?
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you would use the oil/water separation system on the intake using a second regular home air compressor 125psi as a booster pump to provide dry air on the intake side of your pcp compressor. the cooling coils act as a water separator and would only be handling maybe 125 psi from your regular every day compressor.
 
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jarmstrong said:
the major mfrs like Bauer, Alkin, and Coltri all remove water and then vapor the same way,,, do what they do!!!
because that is what is proven to work AND DIVERS LIVES DEPEND ON THEM
the simple act of squeezing/compressing the air with humidity in it, will wring the vapor into a liquid state, which will precipitate out in the water/air separator aka coalescing,,, then the desicant will absorb the remaining vapor in the second tower, the divers also use some carbon in the second tower, for breathing air quality

anybody can put crap into a U-tube,,, that does not make it correct
sd619223, you did not put a link to the many utubes so your opinion needs a link or it is just barking in the wind
please be kind enough to link to your support of your view point

I spent many years in a large power plant and have changed desicant by the 40 gal drum in the instrument air dryers.
water is removed post compression via water traps, then the compressed air goes to the dryer to remove the remaining vapor.
blue crystals are for the indicator viewing window to indicate that the silica needs attention

the pressure pushes it through the filters,,, no problems
the cooling coils are JUST cooling coils, not related to water removal, but for HEAT removal as compressing the air makes it hot

but what do I know,,, I am just a stupid old fart,,, been there,, done that,, but enjoy your trying to reinvent. It is a learning curve, I have tried many things in my life, that just didn't work, but was an education.
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you asked for a link to a u-tube air-dryer system .....
..... this i one of many that are on u-tube. some are much simpler to build.
 
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sd619223 said:
you would use the oil/water separation system on the intake using a second regular home air compressor 125psi as a booster pump to provide dry air on the intake side of your pcp compressor. the cooling coils act as a water separator and would only be handling maybe 125 psi from your regular every day compressor.
Click to expand...
you asked for a link to a u-tube air-dryer system .....


..... this i one of many that are on u-tube. some are much simpler to build.
 
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rcs9250 said:
Here are two links two sources. The first link is a very reputable source but 50% more in price. The eBay one, if new, is a much better price. The valve is made by multiple sources but Thermo and Sherwood are the two biggies in that type of valve. Both are of equal quality. If you google “inline thermo or sherwood scuba valve” you should get a lot of sources.

www.breathingair.com

YVA3010 Line Valve 6000PSI

DetailsLine Valve (YVA3010)6000PSI Air Control Valve 1/4" Male NPT X 1/4" NPT Female thread. Sherwood style.Includes:Soft Seat Valve
www.breathingair.com www.breathingair.com

www.ebay.com

High Pressure Breathing Air SCBA Line Valve 1/4" NPT 6000 PSI | eBay

Replaces Sherwood Valve # YVA3010. 1/4" Inlet / 1/4" Outlet.
www.ebay.com
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Just remember to install a bleed valve if you do not have one between this, the line and the item you are filling.


Allen
 
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peebrainz said:
What’s a good water separator for a relatively small compressor used for direct fill? My compressor came with a pill type filter but it got wet pretty fast.
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I mounted this on my GX CS4 . . . so far so good. I might add, this compressor is so quiet and the humidity so high this time of year in Oklahoma, I moved the compressor inside the house, in my office, where it sucks in dry conditioned air to compress. I think it runs cooler as well. My Tuxing 042 is still out in the garage with a leaking gasket I am unable to repair. Will probably have to take it to a small engine/compressor shop for repair. It would not be suitable to run in the house. I'm sure the little wifely would have a say so! 🍻


CS4.jpg
 
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Bladesx said:
you have that on the output of the compressopr which is fine, but the dicussion was about supply side to the hpac.
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Actually we talked about both ways and how each do. If you can do intake side and have it dry enough not to dampen the little tampons on the high side it means less time to compress air for the large water separator. Having valves (one way or another) will help with fill times.


I believe there was a short dicussion about cooling the air between the stages as well but no pictures.

HAM-Yong-Heng-7.jpg




Allen
 
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orangeokie said:
I mounted this on my GX CS4 . . . so far so good. I might add, this compressor is so quiet and the humidity so high this time of year in Oklahoma, I moved the compressor inside the house, in my office, where it sucks in dry conditioned air to compress. I think it runs cooler as well. My Tuxing 042 is still out in the garage with a leaking gasket I am unable to repair. Will probably have to take it to a small engine/compressor shop for repair. It would not be suitable to run in the house. I'm sure the little wifely would have a say so! 🍻


View attachment 374171
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orangeokie,

It's funny, I just saw the water seperator that you are using on Amazon and was going to ask what the concensus of the forum is on this unit. I am planning to mount it on my Omega Trail Charger (which looks very much like your GX CS4). My intention is for direct filling my airguns not a tank. Your photo of your setup is very helpful. did you have any difficulty with it.

BP-1
 
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orangeokie said:
I mounted this on my GX CS4 . . . so far so good. I might add, this compressor is so quiet and the humidity so high this time of year in Oklahoma, I moved the compressor inside the house, in my office, where it sucks in dry conditioned air to compress. I think it runs cooler as well. My Tuxing 042 is still out in the garage with a leaking gasket I am unable to repair. Will probably have to take it to a small engine/compressor shop for repair. It would not be suitable to run in the house. I'm sure the little wifely would have a say so! 🍻


View attachment 374171
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orangeokie, also have you found any notable restriction of air flow or fill time increase with this setup?
BP-1
 
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orangeokie said:
I mounted this on my GX CS4 . . . so far so good. I might add, this compressor is so quiet and the humidity so high this time of year in Oklahoma, I moved the compressor inside the house, in my office, where it sucks in dry conditioned air to compress. I think it runs cooler as well. My Tuxing 042 is still out in the garage with a leaking gasket I am unable to repair. Will probably have to take it to a small engine/compressor shop for repair. It would not be suitable to run in the house. I'm sure the little wifely would have a say so! 🍻


View attachment 374171
Click to expand...
Been using mine for a year. Water "pours" out of mine when filling my large tank. I also added a sieve media filter as a fail safe..all low restriction.
 
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orangeokie said:
My last fill was from 250 BAR to 300 in my 74cf tank. It took 38 minutes FWIW.
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I normally fill a 162cc cylinder on my rifle from100 to 250 bar in 4 to 5 minutes. Your fill time to volume sounds comparable. if not faster. Did you ever do the same fill without the separator in line, so as to compare the rates?
 
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