Wax and gun bores

First, OP, thanks for posting this information and spreading the word. I learned about this on GTA, refined by motorhead, and have been waxing ever since.

I use Lundmark Clear Paste Wax pure carnauba wax. I think it is cut with kerosene? It’s not like automobile waxes I’ve used. It’s…. different. But the results!

I also use it ON my guns in addition to the bores, like Ed says… on wood and metal. Simply awed by the results. This finishes what JB starts IMHO.
 
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While I am likely not the first to ever do so ? ( Prep & Wax Barrel Bores ) it was a 1st to be spoken about on public AG forums years ago.
I had never heard about it, read or verbally told .. It just sounded right and was worth the trials. Its sharing was just light conversation looking back.
Results speak volumes this many years later with many having tried it and applying it to this day ... Accuracy rules the day !!!
 
Once done, when/how often do you re-apply the wax?
in my world ... Once a through cleaning then waxing .... 10 tins minimum, but do drag a DRY no brush bore snake threw every few 100 as needed.
Never ever ever !!! solvent clean, use balistol or whatever at any time there after unless wanting and willing to clean again & rewax.


Original final cleaning - prewaxing ... Solvent such as NAPTHA / White gas works best !! No citrasolve, Balsistol,Wd40 or organic cleaners etc ... We need CLEAN and trace free of any sort of residual film or odd poop left behind.
 
I reacquired my obsession with airguns about a year ago after maybe 20 years of being obsessed with other hobbies instead. I still shot during that period, but I was really focused on other things like scuba diving or bicycling. Airguns got shot maybe once every couple of weeks in the summer and maybe once every couple of months in the winter. Anyway, back when I was airgun obsessed decades ago my main rifle was an AA S410 and I lubed all the pellets I shot out of it with chain wax and I shot those same pellets for years without cleaning it.

When I got back into airguns I decided to clean their bores for better accuracy and many of them were dirty. My .30 Hatsan had been cleaned when I got it, but after maybe 500 pellets it was filthy. My old S410 on the other hand had been fired thousands of times and the patches that came out of it looked like it had never been fired. I suppose it's possible that I might have cleaned it and forgotten about it, but I doubt it. I think the main difference was that it had been shooting waxed pellets and my other guns hadn't.
 
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Milage sure does very on everything. This particularly TJ barrel, I get about 80 great shots. This and many other hobbies is a sickness 🤣
When I get a new gun I'll try and see what it's capable of off a bench, but once I've got that sorted out I mostly practice shooting off-hand, sitting, prone, etc... I figure it's better to challenge my shooting skills rather than try and wring that last tenth of a MOA out of the rifle itself. I find that many rifles are a bit disappointing off a bench anyway, but a 4 MOA rifle still works fine for shooting off-hand.

It also makes for a hell of a lot less cleaning, pellet sorting, etc...🤣
 
I've got a bunch of bees wax, if it's good enough for the Brits it's good enough for me. I need to run my bore scope down my Raptors TJ barrel, just for giggles. As for the OP's comments about lube, yeah, I'm moderately certain most of us aren't crawling around in the sandbox with pellet guns, heck we get panicky if it starts to rain a bit and run for shelter.
 
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this would probably be a good candidate for a lapping, but I wouldn't feel comfortable doing it on a choked barrel
If you cast a long-ish lap at the muzzle, 2" or 3" long, you can effectively lap both the main part of the bore as well as the choke.

Side benefit is you can't accidentally exit the muzzle when lapping.

lap.jpg