I am 85 & have no problem cocking my 17 FPE HW95 which is equipped with a moderator. The cocking sound is absolutely silent until the piston latches in the trigger. I highly recommend the HW95L.
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HW/Weihrauch Weak guy springers
- Thread starter rangur1
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Yes , I bought my HW97 new @14 FPE ? didn't like it so sent it to John in PA and said i want it as smooth as possible and under 12 FPE as i was going to shoot FT . But this old body got in the way of FT but wish i had it tuned to say 10 FPE instead of 11.6 ( under 12 FPE for FT comp's)
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I’m 75 and shoot my 97s and TXs A LOT. Had the same problem with elbow tendinitis until: 1. tuned them all down to 12fpe and 2. Learned to pull the underlever down (butt pad on my thigh) using my shoulder/back vs arm and elbow. I can shoot for over an hour without discomfort. Uj
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Today I shot a HW30, 50, 85 and a 98. The 30 easily the winner but the 85 wasn’t far behind with the extra leverage. Also delivers a little more mustard with accuracy, than the 30, which is equally as reliable.
Also have a few 77’s with long barrel, dream to jack. Good luck. Crow
Also have a few 77’s with long barrel, dream to jack. Good luck. Crow
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losing battle but trying not to buy a 77 long in .20 , maybe i will save losing till after the 3 shows im going to this year ?
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Browning Rutten Air Star
electric motor driven springer...unfortunately, no longer made.Maybe there's one on the used market? (not too sure about the 40 yard accuracy requirement)
PCP or CO2 would be the next option...unless you got your heart set on springers.
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Now that is an odd ball rifle, and I didnt watch the video while at work so I dont know if thats its intended purpose, but I can only imagine this would have been an awesome way to bring people with restrictions or disabilities that would have kept them from using an airgun before PCP's into the hobby.
When I pre ordered the anniversary model , I asked if they could get the two. I’m going to pre order them at AoA. The HW77 .20 and HW98 .25. soon. Crow
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That's an excellent observation - it can pay to experiment with different holds, grips, and moves.
I made a similar discovery with the FWB 65 pistol. The traditional cocking method is: hold the gun vertically, grab the sidelever overhand, and swing it sideways. But it's much easier on my old wrist and elbow to: hold sideways (palm facing up), grip the lever underhand, and swing it up.
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I have one of the non electric, lever action versions of this gun. They are really cool designs. As far as accuracy goes I really can't say either. Never shot it aside from function checking and chrono testing
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I sold mine a year ago. I have several pcp, but reminisce about shooting a springer every so often.
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I’m relatively new to air rifles and currently own an FWB 300s and Beeman R7 that I’m very pleased with. I am exclusively an offhand target shooter, e.g. informal 10 meter target and air rifle silhouette (20,30, 40, 45 yards). I love the accuracy of the FWB, but at 77 the rifle is getting a little heavy.
Would an HW55 give me the refinement (accuracy, trigger, etc.) of the FWB? Would it stand up to being used on a regular basis? I would be looking for a rifle in very good or better condition, not a safe queen. What price range would I be talking? What are the best places to look? I’d appreciate your comments, suggestions, and advice. Thanks, Tom
How
Would an HW55 give me the refinement (accuracy, trigger, etc.) of the FWB? Would it stand up to being used on a regular basis? I would be looking for a rifle in very good or better condition, not a safe queen. What price range would I be talking? What are the best places to look? I’d appreciate your comments, suggestions, and advice. Thanks, Tom
How
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Some breakbarrels have one long piece between the barrel and the piston, while others have two shorter pieces in an articulated linkage. Two pieces in a cocking lever makes the cocking a lot easier.
For example this Diana 34, an ~18ft# gun, has only one lever piece:
This Xisico XS25, also around 18ft#, has two lever pieces:
So a longer barrel helps cocking, but also check the parts diagram for your favorite gun. I have a Diana 250, which looks to be a Xisico XS25 platform, and it is relatively easy to cock.
For example this Diana 34, an ~18ft# gun, has only one lever piece:
This Xisico XS25, also around 18ft#, has two lever pieces:
So a longer barrel helps cocking, but also check the parts diagram for your favorite gun. I have a Diana 250, which looks to be a Xisico XS25 platform, and it is relatively easy to cock.
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The 55 is great. As far as the trigger goes its basically a cleaned up Rekord that breaks a bit nicer. Mine are set somewhere around 6-7oz. The 300 trigger is definitely better but the 55s is still very very good.
You can find them occasionally on GunBroker and Ebay but keep in mind you will probably want to have them cleaned up and resealed
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Tom, I think you would like the HW 55 a lot! As Sqwirl57 said, such an older recoiling rifle is not as refined as the mighty FWB 300S, but is VERY nice in its own right, and yes much less trimmer and lighter. I describe it as: a) 2/3 of an FWB, built from 1/3 as many parts; and b) what an R7 wants to be when it grows up, ha. It's derived from the classic old HW 50 sporter (NOT the same as the current model of that name), so has simple, rugged basic architecture similar to your R7.
They do turn up on classified pages, online auction sites, etc., but I have had the best luck finding them at dedicated airgun shows. Expect to pay $300 and up depending on stock style and condition. The 55 was made for many years, with several different stock styles and countless minor tweaks, but an 80's-vintage Beeman-import HW 55 M is the style you are most likely to encounter.
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Hey, I need to give that a try. I'm disabled, although able to power up all of my variable pumpers; from just a few pumps to all of them, even with my Seneca Dragonfly MK2's and Benjamin 392s & 397s. ;-) Usually, I can 'pump' up my much more powerful break barrels too, although, depending on the make and model, it can be incredibly tough, enough so I often have a hard time keeping the hard, synthetic buttstock firmly planted on the 'slick' wood floor... and if it does slip, it's pretty much a given nothing good is going to happen.;-) Invariably, with the very toughest models, I end up with the underside of the rifle facing me, to get the best leverage for pulling the barrel the rest of the way down through 90 degrees to the 'stop.' I imagine the method you described means doing something similar, except the rifle will be on my lap facing up. Perhaps something like laying a variable pumper across my lap, sights-side down, so I can easily get at the innards and still work the pump arm after adding a couple of drops of pellgunoil to the mechanism and piston.
I do need to figure out some easier, safer method to cock my tougher (for me) breakers, if at all possible. I guess it's going to be continuing the footsy and slick floor wrestling matches (now and then getting clobbered in the face or side of the head when the bottom slips), developing some kind of pvc or hollow tube-based tool to add length to the barrel and increase leverage, or... master the method you mentioned, if I have the right idea about what you described. I'll give it a shot tomorrow and see what happens. Here’s hoping!
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Have you considered a sidelever springer? You don't have to reach as far forward to cock it as with a break-barrel, so might be able to work from your lap, instead of the floor. And - most sidelevers have a built-in ratchet mechanism to restrain the lever during the cocking stroke - should your grip slip, it stays put and does not slam shut.
Two sidelever rifles that I particularly like are the FWB 300S match rifle I mentioned above, and the Webley Tracker sporter.
The FWB has a short lever and is VERY easy to cock - even my old and dinky hands can literally do it with my little finger. It's a big, heavy rifle but you can minimize that with a Junior ("Mini") model, or a full-size one without a barrel weight sleeve.
FWB (this one is a short-barrel Mini action in a full-size stock):
Sidelever held by the ratchet halfway through the cocking stroke:
The elegant and compact Tracker (imported here as the "Barnett Spitfire"), besides the ratcheted sidelever, is a classic taploader - the safest springer mechanism ever designed. You don't stick your fingers inside a hinged or sliding breech to load it, but simply drop the pellet into a rotating tap.
Tracker:
Closed tap (for cocking or firing):
Open tap (for loading):
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you or someone could build a non slip "butt stock holder " to put on the floor between your feet ? like a rifle rack cutout where the butt stock of the gun sit's ? If you can use your feet to hold this contraption , i can build one and send it to you , free /no chargeHey, I need to give that a try. I'm disabled, although able to power up all of my variable pumpers; from just a few pumps to all of them, even with my Seneca Dragonfly MK2's and Benjamin 392s & 397s. ;-) Usually, I can 'pump' up my much more powerful break barrels too, although, depending on the make and model, it can be incredibly tough, enough so I often have a hard time keeping the hard, synthetic buttstock firmly planted on the 'slick' wood floor... and if it does slip, it's pretty much a given nothing good is going to happen.;-) Invariably, with the very toughest models, I end up with the underside of the rifle facing me, to get the best leverage for pulling the barrel the rest of the way down through 90 degrees to the 'stop.' I imagine the method you described means doing something similar, except the rifle will be on my lap facing up. Perhaps something like laying a variable pumper across my lap, sights-side down, so I can easily get at the innards and still work the pump arm after adding a couple of drops of pellgunoil to the mechanism and piston.
I do need to figure out some easier, safer method to cock my tougher (for me) breakers, if at all possible. I guess it's going to be continuing the footsy and slick floor wrestling matches (now and then getting clobbered in the face or side of the head when the bottom slips), developing some kind of pvc or hollow tube-based tool to add length to the barrel and increase leverage, or... master the method you mentioned, if I have the right idea about what you described. I'll give it a shot tomorrow and see what happens. Here’s hoping!
Stan in KY .
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Sorry to take so long to get back to you. I think I still could do something along these lines. I had in mind the simple idea of a short length of 1x1, or a scrap of something similar, screwed to the floor on which to help anchor the butt... maybe a couple of pieces in an L shape. A portable 'box' of some sort might work out even better (and nothing to trip over screwed into the floor <grin>), putting my feet on both sides, maybe with a long flat piece going off to the side on which to place one foot to help keep box and rifle in place. I think I'll try to figure out something along those lines and give it a shot. I really appreciate your offer though, but no way could I let you do something like that gratis. It sure is a very neighborly gesture, though! Very much appreciated. Thanks again!
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Might a slip-on rubber buttpad, or simple piece of rubber padding laid in the floor, be a simpler - and more portable - means to the same end?
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