HW/Weihrauch Weihrauch barrel idioscyncrosies explained

I started typing this in response to my other thread. First I'm not a gunsmith or a tuner that's worked on all different types of airguns. I'm just a car guy and retired machinist who has worked on a fair amount of Weihrauchs. In the process I've slugged quite a few Weihrauch barrels and had fairly similar results across the board. Slugging a barrel is pushing a pellet manually from the breech out the muzzle. It's a good way to understand what might be going on with a gun's accuracy or output. There's a guy on here that has an excellent video on doing it. I'm just gonna explain what I've found and learned over the years.

Weihrauch barrels are rifled before the the muzzle end is either crimped for sights or threaded for moderators. A muzzle choke is created by the crimp or threading.

I'm not sure if the knurling is done prior to rifling or not. Either way there's typically some sort of constriction inside the breech block especially the knurled areas from either the knurling process and or pressing it into the breech block.

The leade where the pellet is loaded is crowned for loading and sometimes reamed for fit. Pellet fit in the leade isn't necessarily an indication of a loose or tight bore. Reaming can sometimes result in a noticeable step into the tighter breech area just a past the opening. The step is so noticeable on some guns it's visible with a flashlight. I took a picture of it on my first Weihrauch (Hw95) thinking it was a defect causing my accuracy issues. I sent the rifle back to AOA where they explained that was normal and there was nothing wrong with the barrel or rifle. It was a string of bad UTG scopes that had me chasing my tail. A newbie mistake. Now the rifle is my most accurate break barrel. Except the muzzle choke the bore is usually tighter inside breech block than the rest of the barrel. For simplicity I call that tight area inside the breech block the breech choke. Perhaps not technically correct by the definition and manufacture of a traditional choke.

Although the tight area or areas inside the breech block's length is a byproduct of manufacturing, I'm sure it's existence is deliberate and part of the design. After 11 years a BMW master mechanic I'm plenty familiar with German engineers and their philosophy and practices. They are very good and well aware of their work. They won't admit mistakes but they don't let them go unfixed for decades either. Let me explain some of the positive effects this breech "choke" has when working correctly. Then you'll understand why it's been left in production that way.

The first benefit of the breech constriction or choke is it sizes down all pellets to a consistent size to fit that barrel. The rifle automatically does something competition shooters painstakingly do. If Weihrauchs size all the pellets in this breech choke why does head size still make a difference in accuracy? First it can't size down already undersized pellets. Second and this is really getting in the weeds but even lead has a certain amount of elasticity or rebound after forming. Larger heads will still rebound to a slightly larger size after the passing through a tight spot like the breech area. Larger head sizes will also smear to a longer rifling engagement area which might change it's accuracy.

When the breech choke or constriction is too tight, it can shrink the pellet too much. Then the pellet may not engage the rifling properly and air pressure can bypass the pellet. This can negatively affect accuracy and or power. I've experienced this twice now. Once with a brand new 20 caliber barrel and now with a 22 caliber barrel. The accuracy on both was acceptable but the power was well below normal or advertised.

Another possible benefit of a breech restiction is it may create a spike in pressure to pop the pellet out at a faster velocity than it might if the bore was straight. Think pop gun. In the typically desired low drag, perfectly straight bore the pellet would likely accelerate in a more linear fashion and consume the swept volume before reaching the same velocity as the pop gun effect breech.

Past this breech constriction, restiction, choke or whatever you want to call it, the barrels usually open up. The barrels typically have only light drag from the rifling engagement between the breech and muzzle. That's partly why there's no real difference in power outputs between long and short barrels on these guns. Almost every Weihrauch barrel I've slugged has this basic profile. Some barrels are tighter in areas than others. Some have inconsistent engagement drag. When slugging barrels some will have such light engagement the pellet will gravity fall through some sections. This is most commonly found around an inch or so before the sight crimp. Any bore size inconsistency can cause the pellet to chatter down the bore and have bad accuracy. This is why you have a muzzle choke.

The muzzle choke basically grabs the pellet and straightens it out before it leaves the barrel. Weihrauch muzzle chokes vary in resistance. Most are only noticeably tight and some are ridiculously tight. I almost have to pound the pellet through the muzzle choke of the threaded 22 barrel I've been messing with recently. This obviously would consume energy. Especially since there's no significant air pressure left behind the pellet by time it gets to the muzzle.

You'd think it might make sense to use pellets that run small in a gun with a tight choke at either end to reduce resistance and increase power. The problem is not that other pellets are too big but the choke is too tight. I've run smaller and softer pellets through tight choke guns hoping to gain energy. There's typically little to no gain in velocity because the driving air pressure bypasses the undersized pellet. Plus the accuracy tanks because it doesn't engage the rifling throughout most of the barrel.

I'd be remiss if I didn't mention that some people have reported cutting off the choke and recrowning Weihrauch barrels without losing accuracy. I personally wouldn't do it without slugging the barrel first to make sure there's adequate rifling engagement through the full length of the barrel. Even with adequate engagement I'd still look to cut it at a tighter spot.

Also I slugged all my rifles today before posting this to ensure my accuracy after other people's differing experiences. I did find that my 177 Hw50 wasn't particularly tighter in most of the breech than most of the bore. There was a slightly tighter spot just inside the breech towards the front of the breech block otherwise the drag was fairly consistent throughout most of it's length. It did have what I'd call the typical loose spot before the muzzle crimp and of course the associated muzzle choke. Don't ask me what causes that loose spot. F'd if I know.

In a perfect world Weihrauch's chokes wouldn't be necessary. We don't live in a perfect world and pellets aren't always consistently sized so Weihrauch sizes them for you. Unfortunately (albeit rarely) their tolerances are sometimes off and we wind up with a dud. Like I said, I've had two now that were under powered. Thats only two out of dozens of guns I've worked on that were produced from the 80s to this year. I did have two brand new 177 77SEs with consecutive serial numbers that had atrocious accuracy. The guns were returned for a refund. The exact barrel defect is still unknown to me. So I guess that's four defective barrels. I imagine no caliber or model is exempt from an occasional defect. IMO nothing mass produced is. Overall Weihrauch produces good quality barrels and rifles as a whole.

If you ever have accuracy or low power issues I highly recommend slugging a barrel. I normally use bamboo BBQ skewers. They're usually strong enough to push a pellet through without the possibility of damaging the bore. If they're not strong enough the barrels probably bad and you can use a brazing rod. Also slugging has to be done with a good fitting pellet from the breech out to get accurate feedback. This requires complete disassembly of 77s and 97s. I'm not sure if it can be done at all with a 57. Its the only current Weihrauch I haven't worked on.

I hope this helps some people understand what's normal and what to look for. Even knowing this myself I still have to prove a barrel faulty by swapping it out. I'm not happy to have to have done this twice now, but it does help me learn what to look for. I guess I'll eventually get a feel for how tight it's too tight and what's too loose.

Be well all.
Ron
 
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Thankyou for this write up . Very enjoyable read . Informative without getting boring . I also think it might take a number of barrels to understand just what and where to interpret what your feeling when doing this .
Stan in KY.
Thanks. I have a pretty good idea of what I'm feeling and why. My biggest sin isn't slugging the barrel soon enough on my personal guns. I've looked at everything else first and wasted alot of time before I thought it might be a bad barrel.

I slug and polish the bores on everybody else's guns. I don't usually find anything wrong them so I don't bother with mine until I'm pulling out my hair. It's like the adage about the shoemaker's shoes. The embarrassing part is this is the second time I've done it. Fool me once.....
 
Thanks. I have a pretty good idea of what I'm feeling and why. My biggest sin isn't slugging the barrel soon enough on my personal guns. I've looked at everything else first and wasted alot of time before I thought it might be a bad barrel.

I slug and polish the bores on everybody else's guns. I don't usually find anything wrong them so I don't bother with mine until I'm pulling out my hair. It's like the adage about the shoemaker's shoes. The embarrassing part is this is the second time I've done it. Fool me once.....
i was referring to Me/ others doing this procedure and knowing what it is feeling through the barrel , a learning process .
 
Good read Ron. Now I need to get my 95 out and check it. ARH kit, factory seal, .22 12.25" Weihrauch barrel, gun was bought as a .177. Be curious to see if it can achieve 16 FPE.
Thanks. Depending on the JM kit I would think so. Dave Deerhunter gets 17 fpe with a JM kit and a Vortek seal. My 20 cal R9 and your 98 have JM kits and Vortek seals and they make close to 16 without pushing for power. In 22 a 95 family gun should probably make 16 with a good factory seal. And of course a good barrel.
 
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Great read. I've had some novice thoughts on the breech choke myself.
I've found it more noticeable on 22s than 177 and 20 which I put down to the walls of the 22 barrel been thinner causing a more noticeable restriction when pressed into the breech block.
Is it intentional to help build pressure behind the pellet allowing the skirt to expand and engage with the rifling (in the loose spots)? if that is true slugging the barrel by pushing a pellet through isn't a huge indicator of potential accuracy of a barrel.
What I've found to be inconsistent in my Hws is the pellet lead at the breech. The seal that is created when you seat a pellet I feel is often over looked in terms of power and efficiency.
 
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Great read. I've had some novice thoughts on the breech choke myself.
I've found it more noticeable on 22s than 177 and 20 which I put down to the walls of the 22 barrel been thinner causing a more noticeable restriction when pressed into the breech block.
Is it intentional to help build pressure behind the pellet allowing the skirt to expand and engage with the rifling (in the loose spots)? if that is true slugging the barrel by pushing a pellet through isn't a huge indicator of potential accuracy of a barrel.
What I've found to be inconsistent in my Hws is the pellet lead at the breech. The seal that is created when you seat a pellet I feel is often over looked in terms of power and efficiency.
I never took notice of the breech tightness between the calibers. I'll have to pay more attention for that.

In theory air pressure is supposed to balloon the skirts to seal them to the bore. I'm not sure that happens all the time. I think skirt size and design does affect sealing and efficiency but I think it's headsizes that changes accuracy more than skirt engagement. Even then slugging a barrel only gives you something to consider when diagnosing accuracy. You can have a less than ideal bore and still have good accuracy because of the muzzle choke. Both of my "bad" barrels had lumpy engagement, tight and loose spots when slugged. They both had pretty decent accuracy. They were highly inefficient which bothers me.

I agree that HW leade fit is pretty inconsistent. I notice that more with the 177 rifles. Most people prefer a light press fit into the leade. That fit varies alot with different manufacturers pellets. H&Ns typically fit snugger than JSB in 177 and 22. In my experience looser fitting JSBs make more power than tighter H&Ns in 177. Yet it's been pretty consistently reversed in 22. I have a few thoughts on why but It'd be another lengthy post.

I've never noticed a difference in accuracy or efficiency based on leade fit. The skirts usually touch the sides of even loose leades. My biggest problem is having the darn pellets fall out unnoticed and blowing up the gun. My 50 has a loose leade and twice I had the pellet fall out unnoticed and dry fired the gun. It wasted the piston seal and the spring broke soon after. My other guns will hold all but undersized pellets.

Thanks for something to think about.

Be well
 
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Thanks, novice air gunner here with a HW50s in 177. I’ve been pellet testing before I settle on one. The OP said “I agree that HW leade fit is pretty inconsistent. I notice that more with the 177 rifles. Most people prefer a light press fit into the leade. That fit varies alot with different manufacturers pellets. H&Ns typically fit snugger than JSB in 177 and 22. In my experience looser fitting JSBs make more power than tighter H&Ns in 177. Yet it's been pretty consistently reversed in 22. I have a few thoughts on why but It'd be another lengthy post.”
I have been finding that the JSB exact Match’s 8.4 are loose enough in the breech that I worry they’ll fall out. The H&N FTT 8.4s are tighter and don’t feel like they’ll fall out. Interestingly the heads seem to grab the bore as I push them in whereas the JSB’s heads don’t. There isn’t much difference in my groups, but as the H&N are cheaper I’m leaning towards buying a batch of them. Do you have any thoughts as to the effect of the pellet head seating? These were shot from a seated position field target style. Obviously, I hope to do better. 😉
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This second set was seated at a picnic bench.
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Thanks, novice air gunner here with a HW50s in 177. I’ve been pellet testing before I settle on one. The OP said “I agree that HW leade fit is pretty inconsistent. I notice that more with the 177 rifles. Most people prefer a light press fit into the leade. That fit varies alot with different manufacturers pellets. H&Ns typically fit snugger than JSB in 177 and 22. In my experience looser fitting JSBs make more power than tighter H&Ns in 177. Yet it's been pretty consistently reversed in 22. I have a few thoughts on why but It'd be another lengthy post.”
I have been finding that the JSB exact Match’s 8.4 are loose enough in the breech that I worry they’ll fall out. The H&N FTT 8.4s are tighter and don’t feel like they’ll fall out. Interestingly the heads seem to grab the bore as I push them in whereas the JSB’s heads don’t. There isn’t much difference in my groups, but as the H&N are cheaper I’m leaning towards buying a batch of them. Do you have any thoughts as to the effect of the pellet head seating? These were shot from a seated position field target style. Obviously, I hope to do better. 😉
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This second set was seated at a picnic bench.
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Ok your situation is exactly what I described with the exact same rifle to boot. The JSBs are more likely to fall out than the H&Ns because the JSBs are typically sized smaller and have softer thinner skirts.

I'm not sure what you mean by pellet head seating. Do you mean deep seating with a tool to a specific depth?
 
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The JSB is the top pellet and the H&N is the lower one. What I mean by the pellet head seating is that when I put a JSB in the breech it seems that the only thing to contact the rifle is the edge of the skirt, and in a very loose way. It’s a different story with the H&N because the head of the pellet touches the breech right away and as I push it in I can feel a slight friction even before I have reached the skirt. I don’t use a pellet seating tool, it’s this pellet-head-friction that I was trying to describe. In the photo of the two pellets, you can see that the edge of the pellet head of the H&N has a slightly thicker rim.
Another observation is that I zeroed the rifle at 25 yards on JSBs and the H&N are hitting higher on the paper. They weigh the same according to the tin, and so I wonder if the slightly tighter initial fit of the H&N is allowing more air to stay behind the pellet.
I appreciate your explanation of what you’re finding. I’m enjoying the HW50s.
 
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The JSB is the top pellet and the H&N is the lower one. What I mean by the pellet head seating is that when I put a JSB in the breech it seems that the only thing to contact the rifle is the edge of the skirt, and in a very loose way. It’s a different story with the H&N because the head of the pellet touches the breech right away and as I push it in I can feel a slight friction even before I have reached the skirt. I don’t use a pellet seating tool, it’s this pellet-head-friction that I was trying to describe. In the photo of the two pellets, you can see that the edge of the pellet head of the H&N has a slightly thicker rim.
Another observation is that I zeroed the rifle at 25 yards on JSBs and the H&N are hitting higher on the paper. They weigh the same according to the tin, and so I wonder if the slightly tighter initial fit of the H&N is allowing more air to stay behind the pellet.
I appreciate your explanation of what you’re finding. I’m enjoying the HW50s.
OK. Thanks for explaining. In every 177 Weihrauch I've owned or worked on (and that's a bunch) the JSBs fit looser than the FTTs as you described. Your different point of impact at a single distance isn't necessarily an indication of velocity or efficiency. My experience is JSBs 8.44s are always significantly faster than 8.64 FTTs in Weihrauchs. The FTTs are slightly heavier at 8.64.

Their higher impact could be from harmonics and or barrel flip. The barrel can flip higher before the slower pellet leaves the barrel. My 177 Hw50 pushes JSB 8.44 pellets ~795fps and FTT 8.64 around 755fps. That's 11.84 fpe to 10.93 fpe respectively. The higher energy indicates higher efficiency. The JSBs and the FTTs fit my rifle exactly like yours. This difference in energy between these two pellets is similar in all my 177 Weihrauchs. Your not losing any sealing with them even though they on the looser side.

Now efficiency has nearly zero bearing on accuracy. Accuracy is more important than energy if you're considering any type of competition. Now I use JSB 8.44 and rebranded ones in my Hw50 because I plink out to fairly long ranges (100yds) and shoot critters so the extra velocity and energy help. The 8.44s accuracy is generally excellent and often matches the FTTs. The accuracy and sizing of FTTs is much more consistent from tin to tin. JSBs will vary more lot to lot. The best way to hedge that bet is to buy the AA and FX rebrands or the 4.53 head sizing. Those are tinned from a single die. This can be expensive but you'll get a little more consistency.

Honestly, if energy isn't an issue and the FTTs print well the FTTs are probably the safest bet. You'll get more consistency and won't have to worry about the pellets falling out while closing the gun. I buy FTTs 20 tins at a time in both 4.51 and 4.52 sizes. Some rifles will prefer one a little over the other. Either still shoot well in all my 177 Weihrauchs. Most of my rifles have printed their best single groups with JSBs but over the years the average FTT group is better because of production consistency.

That's my experience and you'll have to do your own testing to see what prints best in your gun. I think 4.52 FTTs is a pretty safe bet.

Good luck and I hope this helps,
Ron
 
OK. Thanks for explaining. In every 177 Weihrauch I've owned or worked on (and that's a bunch) the JSBs fit looser than the FTTs as you described. Your different point of impact at a single distance isn't necessarily an indication of velocity or efficiency. My experience is JSBs 8.44s are always significantly faster than 8.64 FTTs in Weihrauchs. The FTTs are slightly heavier at 8.64.

Their higher impact could be from harmonics and or barrel flip. The barrel can flip higher before the slower pellet leaves the barrel. My 177 Hw50 pushes JSB 8.44 pellets ~795fps and FTT 8.64 around 755fps. That's 11.84 fpe to 10.93 fpe respectively. The higher energy indicates higher efficiency. The JSBs and the FTTs fit my rifle exactly like yours. This difference in energy between these two pellets is similar in all my 177 Weihrauchs. Your not losing any sealing with them even though they on the looser side.

Now efficiency has nearly zero bearing on accuracy. Accuracy is more important than energy if you're considering any type of competition. Now I use JSB 8.44 and rebranded ones in my Hw50 because I plink out to fairly long ranges (100yds) and shoot critters so the extra velocity and energy help. The 8.44s accuracy is generally excellent and often matches the FTTs. The accuracy and sizing of FTTs is much more consistent from tin to tin. JSBs will vary more lot to lot. The best way to hedge that bet is to buy the AA and FX rebrands or the 4.53 head sizing. Those are tinned from a single die. This can be expensive but you'll get a little more consistency.

Honestly, if energy isn't an issue and the FTTs print well the FTTs are probably the safest bet. You'll get more consistency and won't have to worry about the pellets falling out while closing the gun. I buy FTTs 20 tins at a time in both 4.51 and 4.52 sizes. Some rifles will prefer one a little over the other. Either still shoot well in all my 177 Weihrauchs. Most of my rifles have printed their best single groups with JSBs but over the years the average FTT group is better because of production consistency.

That's my experience and you'll have to do your own testing to see what prints best in your gun. I think 4.52 FTTs is a pretty safe bet.

Good luck and I hope this helps,
Ron
 
What a great thread! I have neither the extensive accuracy testing or mechanical abilities of you guys...but have run a boat load of chrono strings on my many lower-powered oldsters over the years. Y'all have taken what I've learned there to another level.

I agree that a pellet's fit to the breech is an important factor for springers that is often overlooked. It seems to me many springers, especially newer ones, don't really have a designed leade at all, but just a short, sharp-edged angled chamfer. In guns like this pellet skirt diameter can often affect velocity and consistency more than pellet weight, in my experience.

The classic Gerald Cardew book, The Airgun From Trigger to Target, has actual instrumented testing of leade designs - along with many other details! - and is a very educational read.

Three guns I've had of interest in this area are the Webley Vulcan (round chamfer and long tapered leade precisely following Cardew's recommendations), Anschutz 335 (short smooth-sided leade, placing head in the rifling while perfectly sizing and sealing the pellet skirt), and older Weihrauch HW 55's (a long tapered leade done by hammering in a mandrel, specifically intended to smooth firing behavior).
 
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On my new HW95n in .22, when I pushed a pellet through the breach and on through the barrel. I found the breach to be snug but not tight. And you can feel the pellet clear the breach and enter the barrel. The barrel fit is less snug than the breach. But nice and consistent drag until about 2in before the choke. Then I felt a slight but noticeable drop on needed pressure to to push it forward. And the choke is about as tight as the breach. Maybe a little tighter.
I polished the barrel and the push through the barrel is now consistent from breach to choke.

I’m pretty new to air gunning. So I’m just offering up what my experience is with my only HW rifle.
I’m currently running my 1st tin of 500 through it. I can update accuracy findings at that point maybe.