HW/Weihrauch Weihrauch HW30/R7 Parts Search?

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And sometimes the factory puts in an extra shim washer as I noticed on my RX1.

When adding some moly grease to the shims, there was an extra one on one side which caused the barrel to be slightly off center.

So I removed the extra one and kept as a spare.

Many years later I ground down the OD to match the ones used on the HW30/50 series guns. I can confirm these are a very hard spring steel.
 
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Mycapt65 said:

Hw30 / R7 lock up issues and fixes

Hw30 / R7 lock up issues and fixes I've read about people having vertical stringing and lock up issues with Hw30s. Sometime ago I wrote up a post explaining what I found when I was trying to fix a sinking POI when shooting for extended sessions. What fixed that rifle was thinning the breech...
www.airgunnation.com www.airgunnation.com
Message me for my phone number if you need more help.
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Thank you. I had been reading through that and it’s a great reference. I appreciate it.
 
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MDriskill said:
JG Airguns (John Groenewold near Chicago) shows the pivot shims under HW 50 parts. They are the same part for any HW with the 30mm receiver tube diameter.

HW50 : JG Airguns, LLC

JG Airguns : HW50 - Accessories, Cleaning Supplies Airguns Ammo, Collectable Ammo, Shootable Books, Catalogs, Manuals, etc. CO2 Cylinders Collectables Mounts, Scopes, Sights, etc. Parts Tools Gift Certificates Buglespanner see Will JG Airguns Accessories, Cleaning Supplies Airguns Ammo...
www.jgairguns.biz
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Thank you!
 
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A.G.R said:
The spacers for every gun besides the HW 80/35 are the same. All 25,26 mm tubes use a smaller shim. The 30 mm tubes use a bigger shim.

That being said I’ve NEVER wore a shim out as they are spring steel. I’ve seen many who buggered up the innards trying to push the bolt through and fat screwdriver ing the head with a tapered slandered driver.
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My shims are a little distorted and measure around .06mm which I thought was maybe a little thin. The barrel tension is pretty loose even under a fair bit of bolt tension. I’ll try new washers or double washers if i have to.
 
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MDriskill said:
To be clear, my post above refers NOT to the piston seal size, but to the receiver tube's OUTSIDE diameter, which is the operable number for breech shims. The HW 30 and 50 use a 30mm OD tube; the big HW 35/80 with screw-off rear section a 35mm one.

The smaller shims are 18mm in diameter, the bigger ones 22mm. Both sizes have an opening a hair under 8mm and are 0.004" (0.1mm) thick.

View attachment 535292

As a point of historical interest - most pre-war barrel-cockers don't have any breech shims, and Weihrauch didn't start using them until the mid 1970's. Their older guns have none, or sometimes only on one side; the very thin material shows they are a bit of an afterthought!

Diana barrel-cockers, in contrast, have used a much better (IMHO) design since the 1950's - heavy rimmed washers fitted into milled recesses in the breech block, with an additional belleville washer on one side to control tension. I have never seen a lateral barrel alignment issue on a Diana.
Click to expand...
 
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MDriskill said:
To be clear, my post above refers NOT to the piston seal size, but to the receiver tube's OUTSIDE diameter, which is the operable number for breech shims. The HW 30 and 50 use a 30mm OD tube; the big HW 35/80 with screw-off rear section a 35mm one.

The smaller shims are 18mm in diameter, the bigger ones 22mm. Both sizes have an opening a hair under 8mm and are 0.004" (0.1mm) thick.

View attachment 535292

As a point of historical interest - most pre-war barrel-cockers don't have any breech shims, and Weihrauch didn't start using them until the mid 1970's. Their older guns have none, or sometimes only on one side; the very thin material shows they are a bit of an afterthought!

Diana barrel-cockers, in contrast, have used a much better (IMHO) design since the 1950's - heavy rimmed washers fitted into milled recesses in the breech block, with an additional belleville washer on one side to control tension. I have never seen a lateral barrel alignment issue on a Diana.
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Great info. Thank you! I’ll get this R7 sorted out. Warm days are coming!
 
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jlharden said:
My shims are a little distorted and measure around .06mm which I thought was maybe a little thin. The barrel tension is pretty loose even under a fair bit of bolt tension. I’ll try new washers or double washers if i have to.
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One thing you may want to check is the pivot bolt and lock washer is in the correct orientation. If you put the bolt/lock washer on facing the wrong way it won’t tighten down correctly.

Yes I did this myself one time and the barrel won’t be able to be tensioned correctly.

I like the barrel to just slowly fall when letting go (in the cocked position)

Edit: looks like there may be a lock washer on both sides. Just make sure the bolt is put in from the left side and tightened down to the correct tension.

1738605878413.jpeg
 
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Squeeze forks in padded vice , do not use two shims. Calipers are your friend. It’s not how thick they are. Don’t be afraid to tighten the first threaded bolt up to crush the split ring lock washer and then tighten the outer nut with its split ring washer. If you don’t have both your spinning your wheels.

when done right you should barely get the breech block in with a vacume feel ,use a round bamboo skewer to hold washers while pushing bolt through. Do not force. They are not lined up if it won’t go. Patience and deft hands.

MOST BOLT HEADS BE CLEANED UP WITH A DRILL OR LATHE AND A FILE AND EMERY. Reheat blue it and it’s usually better than the dull machined stock look.

MAKE SURE YOUR USING A TRUE HALLOW GROUND FLAT HEAD SCREW DRIVER THAT FITS TIGHT IN THE SLOT ALL THE WAY AND FIRM.
 
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jlharden said:
My shims are a little distorted and measure around .06mm which I thought was maybe a little thin. The barrel tension is pretty loose even under a fair bit of bolt tension. I’ll try new washers or double washers if i have to.
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Never use a shim that has a crease, bent spot at an edge, etc. The metal is harder than what the receiver tube is made of, and will score them. As AGR mentioned it's actually not hard to bend the jaws slightly if needed.
 
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A.G.R said:
Squeeze forks in padded vice , do not use two shims. Calipers are your friend. It’s not how thick they are. Don’t be afraid to tighten the first threaded bolt up to crush the split ring lock washer and then tighten the outer nut with its split ring washer. If you don’t have both your spinning your wheels.

when done right you should barely get the breech block in with a vacume feel ,use a round bamboo skewer to hold washers while pushing bolt through. Do not force. They are not lined up if it won’t go. Patience and deft hands.

MOST BLOT HEADS BE CLEANED UP WITH A DRILL OR LATHE AND A FILE AND EMERY. Reheat blue it and it’s usually better than the dull machined stock look.

MAKE SURE YOUR USING A TRUE HALLOW GROUND FLAT HEAD SCREW DRIVER THAT FITS TIGHT IN THE SLOT ALL THE WAY AND FIRM.
Click to expand...
Very good information. Thank you for sharing it.
 
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MDriskill said:
Never use a shim that has a crease, bent spot at an edge, etc. The metal is harder than what the receiver tube is made of, and will score them. As AGR mentioned it's actually not hard to bend the jaws slightly if needed.
Click to expand...
These are definitely not smooth and flat like they should be. I'm going to get some new shims and work on the fit as suggested. Thanks!
 
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A.G.R said:
Squeeze forks in padded vice , do not use two shims. Calipers are your friend. It’s not how thick they are. Don’t be afraid to tighten the first threaded bolt up to crush the split ring lock washer and then tighten the outer nut with its split ring washer. If you don’t have both your spinning your wheels.

when done right you should barely get the breech block in with a vacume feel ,use a round bamboo skewer to hold washers while pushing bolt through. Do not force. They are not lined up if it won’t go. Patience and deft hands.

MOST BOLT HEADS BE CLEANED UP WITH A DRILL OR LATHE AND A FILE AND EMERY. Reheat blue it and it’s usually better than the dull machined stock look.

MAKE SURE YOUR USING A TRUE HALLOW GROUND FLAT HEAD SCREW DRIVER THAT FITS TIGHT IN THE SLOT ALL THE WAY AND FIRM.
Click to expand...

Peen the metal back into place before you polish the screw so it doesn't look like a polished turd
(y)

I'm using a little 4 oz ball peen hammer. It's easier than you think to put the metal back where it goes. Light tapping is all

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A quick project update. Parts arrived from AoA yesterday. I carefully sized the forks using the micrometer. All went together perfectly. Gave the mainspring/guides an inspection, cleanup, and lube. Feels good, sounds good. Will shoot some targets when the weather cooperates. Thanks to all for all the valuable information.

Jerrod

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jlharden said:
A quick project update. Parts arrived from AoA yesterday. I carefully sized the forks using the micrometer. All went together perfectly. Gave the mainspring/guides an inspection, cleanup, and lube. Feels good, sounds good. Will shoot some targets when the weather cooperates. Thanks to all for all the valuable information.

Jerrod

View attachment 537982

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View attachment 537984
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Where did you source the barrel sleeve and sight cover if I may ask? Decent looking 7
 
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TnCnDn said:
Where did you source the barrel sleeve and sight cover if I may ask? Decent looking 7
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Thanks. It's not decked out like a most of my fleet but makes a great shop rifle. I bought it with the sleeve and cover and tuned it up with an ARH kit and Vortek piston seal. Previous owner thought it could be a Paul Watts set up. I wish I knew. Just trying to make it shoot to its potential!
 
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