Beeman Weihrauch HW30S($4.40) for less than a McDonalds Happy Meal($5.69)
- Thread starter Wadcutter
- Start date
$4??? Wow, I did not know such prices even exist nowadays 
. Congrats on the nice score and I hope you will get it up and running in no time. It's a great project to invest time in and should render very satisfactory results at the end. Looking at your photos, it seems like it's mechanically sound and just needs some TLC . Please keep us posted on the progress!
. Congrats on the nice score and I hope you will get it up and running in no time. It's a great project to invest time in and should render very satisfactory results at the end. Looking at your photos, it seems like it's mechanically sound and just needs some TLC . Please keep us posted on the progress! Last edited:
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Thanks Karl. I did see that, but only ordered the spring, not the kit. I can make a new guide or spacer if needed.
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Found a little time to strip and repair the cracked stock. Was originally going to use Acraglas gel but decided it would be too thick to successfully force into the narrowing split, so used the regular Acraglas which is much thinner.
Initially taped to hold in place, after applying the mixture, and then used hand clamps (not shown) to squeeze the crack together better.
Now just have to mill out the area that has a chunk missing and epoxy in a block of hard wood.
New spring and breech seal arrived from ARH. Turned a top hat and tighter fitting spring guide than the factory one.
Additionally, the cocking lever's end tabs were bent back into a straight position, and the distorted piston slot was fixed.
Initially taped to hold in place, after applying the mixture, and then used hand clamps (not shown) to squeeze the crack together better.
Now just have to mill out the area that has a chunk missing and epoxy in a block of hard wood.
New spring and breech seal arrived from ARH. Turned a top hat and tighter fitting spring guide than the factory one.
Additionally, the cocking lever's end tabs were bent back into a straight position, and the distorted piston slot was fixed.
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Outstanding repair, that stock will, in all likelihood, be stronger than when it left the fatherland. Also, nice job on the piston slot.
Care to share your procedure for straightening the tabs on that cocking lever? Heat, cold bend, whack it with a hammer?
Kudos for keeping the leather piston seal as well, they shoot so smoothly in OEM configuration. Can't wait to see the end product.
Care to share your procedure for straightening the tabs on that cocking lever? Heat, cold bend, whack it with a hammer?
Kudos for keeping the leather piston seal as well, they shoot so smoothly in OEM configuration. Can't wait to see the end product.
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That was a freaking hilarious remark. Stealing that one!Yea, so I had boasted to my wife about what a great deal the gun was, to which she replied, "Why do you want that piece of junk when you have such nice ones already?"
My reply was, "The same reason you married me. You were looking for a fixer-upper."
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Heated the curved area to a dull cherry red and locked the jaws of some channel locks onto the points indicated by the red arrows (avoiding the ears), and bent it down. Then quenched in old motor oil.
Milled out the area of the stock where the wood was missing and then formed a block of maple to fit. Notice the clear template laying next to the block?
After cutting the maple block to fit flush, the tube was inserted to see if it wobbled forward or backward. Lastly, the block was epoxied and clamped into position.
On a side note, here's a side by side comparison of this 1977 Rekord trigger and a 1986 trigger from an R7. The earlier trigger has laminated steel plates for the piston sear, whereas the later variant is solid.
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As you can see from the following pics, the barrel and tube have been attacked by the red devil.
When there's visible pitting, drastic measures have to be taken to remove it. So instead of grilling fresh salmon for lunch yesterday, I used the gas grill to boil the HW30 barrel and tube in distilled water.
Grabbed a couple beers and let her cook for about an hour or so.
Here's the pieces fresh out of the pot. Yikes! No worries though, they just need carded off.
I don't have a carding wheel so used 0000 steel wool to remove the baked on crust. A little elbow grease and the end results show an amazing transformation as can be seen here in the before/after pics.
More end results
When there's visible pitting, drastic measures have to be taken to remove it. So instead of grilling fresh salmon for lunch yesterday, I used the gas grill to boil the HW30 barrel and tube in distilled water.
Grabbed a couple beers and let her cook for about an hour or so.
Here's the pieces fresh out of the pot. Yikes! No worries though, they just need carded off.
I don't have a carding wheel so used 0000 steel wool to remove the baked on crust. A little elbow grease and the end results show an amazing transformation as can be seen here in the before/after pics.
More end results
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Awesome job! Look forward to seeing the final result. Quite the bargain for less than 5 bucks!
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Very, Very nice work Thanks for sharing I've never heard of boiling in distilled water but as they say "the proof is in the pudding".
Thanks for sharing I've never heard of boiling in distilled water but as they say "the proof is in the pudding".Upvote 0
And the lump of coal is transformed into a shiny diamond!
Elbow grease coupled with some know how is an amazing elixir. Sharing the process is both commendable, and inspirational.
Elbow grease coupled with some know how is an amazing elixir. Sharing the process is both commendable, and inspirational.
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No parts were reblued. Just degreased, boiled, and carded using 0000 steel wool. It's the easiest way to eradicate rust that has progressed beyond the surface. and still keep the original bluing. This method works better than simply scrubbing with steel wool and oil, and it has been used on numerous personal restoration projects successfully.
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Gun is finished, so figured I'd better post some follow-up information and pictures.
Layout of parts.
Could not find a factory rear cap, so ended up turning one on the lathe. Turned out Ok, but can you tell I'm not a machinist. LOL
Stripped the stock and used dye to add some color to the blotchy Beech. Then a few coats of Tru-Oil with some dye added to help blend.
Found a satin nickel trigger guard and added the Williams sight.
Layout of parts.
Could not find a factory rear cap, so ended up turning one on the lathe. Turned out Ok, but can you tell I'm not a machinist. LOL
Stripped the stock and used dye to add some color to the blotchy Beech. Then a few coats of Tru-Oil with some dye added to help blend.
Found a satin nickel trigger guard and added the Williams sight.
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