What distance do you zero your scope?

[Filnez]

For my particular rifle, pellet and velocity I like to zero at 43 yards, that puts it on at about 20 and approximately 3/8" high at 30 and 5/8" low at 50. That's with a Weihrauch HW100S shooting a JSB 18 at around 985 fps. Any squirrels inside of 50 yards missed are my fault.

Each particular velocity and pellet, plus the purpose it's used for, will determine how to set your zeroing distance. What works perfectly for me might not for someone else. A ballistic calculator will show you what varying zero points does to the trajectory then you can test shoot to confirm and adjust to suit.

 

[Airgun-hobbyist]

Here's a couple of dope charts from Strelok showing a 40 yard zero with both a slow and a fast pellet, in .22 Crosman 14.3gr. With a 40 yard zero there's just over a pellet's thickness of hold under on target or game for both speeds at 30 yards. The third chart shows the elevation/trajectory yard by yard within an inch from 15 to 45 yards. With a 40 yard zero I see these in terms of holding two pellets high up close at 15, one pellet low at 30, and two pellets high out at 45. Beyond those parameters and the actual yardage and holdover or dialing matter.

 

[wooferocau]

100YDS..

 

[shambozzie]

I always use Strelok pro as a guide. Use there recommendations for start point and I click from that point. Kill zone always .5". Works for me. This is Black Betty setup.

 

[Revoman]

^^^^ Yep, this is what I was explaining in my earlier post. I use .6" radius to give a 1.20" diameter....about the size a GS noggin.

 

[scubajeeper]

I zero mine at 50, I use the trajectory graph on chair gun. My .25 shooting Hades at 940 is on at 20 yards, rises about half an inch and is back on at 50. This works out pretty good for tree rat hunting.

 

[JBV2T]

I use this method

This is the best method.

 

[MysticalDragon]

This is the best method.

That's a good video and actually makes sense. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Revoman]

Although decent information, I don't believe that the video reflects the OP's actual question.
The question is: At what range do you zero your scope, meaning what general range is used for general shooting, not actually sighting it in.

 

[delooper]

I zero at my typical shooting distance, which is about 25 meters.

 

[airgungil]

I pretty much only zero at 50 but that's more of a holdover from NRL22.

 

[coffeepan]

100 m

 

[cmatera]

Whenever possible, I zero so all my clicks are UP only, when projectile data is input into Strelok Pro. It's usually 25-30 yards.

 

[Motorhead]

Only those who have shot or understand the Field target game where the utmost in shot placement is key truly get it IMO
Close within a +/- of ideal will not cut it !!! When each shot you take is at a differing distance, exact theoretical POI data is priceless

 

[Lt.Dan]

Different rifles, different zeros.
I have some at 25, 30, and my Diana 34 with a 40 yd zero

 

[dizzums]

every fps and scope height will have an ideal zero to take maximum advantage of the projectile flight arc .. this is assuming you dont have fixed distance targets where you can go off of the math from a zero at any distance .. but for pesting in the real world you wont be twisting turrets and getting out the ballistic calc lol .. youll want 'the best' overall zero that covers the most distance with a 'point blank' dead-on crosshair, typically from 10-50yds ... ive found for most airguns in the 900fps range it will be close to a 20yd zero ... adjust the distance a yd at a time to put it about 1/2" low at 50 ...once youve established that, the projectile flight will stay close to 1/2" out up/down at any given point from ~10-50 .... lower speeds will reduce the yds in the whole equation, 700fps may be a 15yd zero with a terminal of 40 to keep it within that 1/2" ... or if you tighten your allowance up/down to 1/4" out it also reduces it .. but 1/2" generally works well on squirrel or larger .. then, if yoire outside yoir range, closer or further its 'always' holdover, and as you get a feel for it you can stretch it further .. except on steep inclines. that will tend to shoot higher than normal, or require no holdover even 10-20 yds past the zone ..

 

[DougH.]

Only those who have shot or understand the Field target game where the utmost in shot placement is key truly get it IMO
Close within a +/- of ideal will not cut it !!! When each shot you take is at a differing distance, exact theoretical POI data is priceless

I truly don’t think one has to be proficient in field target to comprehend shot placement and trajectory. Anyone can if they apply themselves, regardless of caliber or velocity. If you’re familiar enough with your weapon and discipline, the only limitation is the effective range of the weapon being used.

 

[Motorhead]

I truly don’t think one has to be proficient in field target to comprehend shot placement and trajectory. Anyone can if they apply themselves, regardless of caliber or velocity. If you’re familiar enough with your weapon and discipline, the only limitation is the effective range of the weapon being used.

We all do what works best for us ....

 

[DougH.]

every fps and scope height will have an ideal zero to take maximum advantage of the projectile flight arc .. this is assuming you dont have fixed distance targets where you can go off of the math from a zero at any distance .. but for pesting in the real world you wont be twisting turrets and getting out the ballistic calc lol .. youll want 'the best' overall zero that covers the most distance with a 'point blank' dead-on crosshair, typically from 10-50yds ... ive found for most airguns in the 900fps range it will be close to a 20yd zero ... adjust the distance a yd at a time to put it about 1/2" low at 50 ...once youve established that, the projectile flight will stay close to 1/2" out up/down at any given point from ~10-50 .... lower speeds will reduce the yds in the whole equation, 700fps may be a 15yd zero with a terminal of 40 to keep it within that 1/2" ... or if you tighten your allowance up/down to 1/4" out it also reduces it .. but 1/2" generally works well on squirrel or larger .. then, if yoire outside yoir range, closer or further its 'always' holdover, and as you get a feel for it you can stretch it further .. except on steep inclines. that will tend to shoot higher than normal, or require no holdover even 10-20 yds past the zone ..

I agree. The center to center scope/bore height can greatly affect what you are stating. I’ve had rifles with over 3” scope height over bore. I now have 2.49” scope height over bore and have found it easier to cover a longer point blank yardage span using the PBR method. I am now sighted in for my first zero at 25yds. I know I can pretty much hold dead on in a pesting situation from 15-50 yds, yielding 1/2-3/4” low on either side of the spectrum. Good comment.

 

[jps2486]

For FT guns, 25 yards. For general hunter/plinkers, 50 yards. For BR guns, zero in on the distance you are shooting.