What Height Rings.....

[brawler1588]

Is there a way to know what specific height you need. I was taught you close your eye set your cheek weld than open if you need to adjust your position it's not in your natural position. With that said how do you determine what the height should be. Now I can usually figure it out but since owning a impact and the ghost now the scopes sit so high over bore. With the ghost you can take the picatinny rail off and mount to the dovetail but a 1.5" is too low still so I was thinking the eagle vision which is just about 1.6" without the adjustment or I saw a set of rings that were 1.93" any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated. Scope is a arken ep5 so 34mm.

 

[markhooper]

Is there a way to know what specific height you need. I was taught you close your eye set your cheek weld than open if you need to adjust your position it's not in your natural position. With that said how do you determine what the height should be. Now I can usually figure it out but since owning a impact and the ghost now the scopes sit so high over bore. With the ghost you can take the picatinny rail off and mount to the dovetail but a 1.5" is too low still so I was thinking the eagle vision which is just about 1.6" without the adjustment or I saw a set of rings that were 1.93" any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated. Scope is a arken ep5 so 34mm.

well I can't really fully answer your question, I have seen how tall scopes are getting.. depending on what you want to do as far as changing distance.. no issues if you have a set distance but if you shoot close and long distances.. the taller the scope, or sights the more adjustment you will have to do to stay on target..
for instance the hatsan jet has those tall flip up sights.. people commented that fine at certain distance but if say you are shooting 10 meters and then you want to shoot a snake at 3 meters it's going to hit a different place.. so like the last scope I had on a long range rifle was a 32 lens and I had it almost touching the barrel.. I of course had parallax adjustment but it was a almost flat shooter from 50 yards to 100 yards.. and still not very far off at 10 yards.. if I remember correctly it was like -1.5" hold on close and -0- at 50 and then +1.5 at 100.. of course you can tell from that it was zero for 50 yards and a very tight group.. I don't remember the brand scope but it was nice since I could look through while turning the parallax adjustment and when it looked clear that was the yardage.. course that scope is 20 years old now I have no idea if anything is the same now.. and I might not be able to find this thread again, so if brand name and model would be helpful, just message me? and I will ask my daughter, it's on her rifle now but I doubt things are still the same.. it was a top dollar air gun scope at the time and never had a issue with it on my rws 48..
Mark

 

[Florida_Man]

Is there a way to know what specific height you need. I was taught you close your eye set your cheek weld than open if you need to adjust your position it's not in your natural position. With that said how do you determine what the height should be. Now I can usually figure it out but since owning a impact and the ghost now the scopes sit so high over bore. With the ghost you can take the picatinny rail off and mount to the dovetail but a 1.5" is too low still so I was thinking the eagle vision which is just about 1.6" without the adjustment or I saw a set of rings that were 1.93" any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated. Scope is a arken ep5 so 34mm.

I believed that for awhile until I really started shooting very different rifles/carbines. And shooting other peoples rifles. It's amazing how your body adjusts and head tilts and remembers the positions for different platforms.

I like adjusting the turrets to my yardage, not reticle hold (when I have the time.) I found it more important to mount the scope with the reticle dead center at my zero distance. This way I know I have maximum travel for my reticle. So I have gone to adjustable rings. Sportsmatch and FX adjustable rings are both "high" mounts.

 

[beerthief]

I always try to mount the bell of the scope within 1/8 inch of touching the barrel .

 

[Smok3y]

Is there a way to know what specific height you need. I was taught you close your eye set your cheek weld than open if you need to adjust your position it's not in your natural position.

This is a good way, because you want to be comfortable. If approaching like this gets you comfortable, do it. This is about your feel and how it helps you shoot.

For the longest time. I kept reading about how it needs to be as close to the barrel as possible for all sorts of reasons, but the setup was usually uncomfortable to me. Some setups were still very hard to get behind and be that low. It would strain my neck and even my eyes as I tried are hard to get that low and find a good weld.

That all changed when I put 1.5” rings on my second Impact. From then on, I have said screw low rings and close to the barrel! It is so much more comfortable (at a bench) when I can have tall rings and be much more upright. That is what adjustable cheek tests are for too!

Who cares about appearance of closeness of the scope to the barrel? I have also never found that I run out of adjustment because of it either, as scopes nowadays are loaded with adjustment. Canted rails and mounts help with this too. The one time higher rings can be an issue is in prone. With your body changing its approach to the rifle, your setup is different and odder. If you plan for PRS (I haven’t) you may have to worry about some stages where you stick your rifle through holes, and may have to worry about a scope being too high (can’t speak from experience).

I like keeping spare rings for this purpose of trying out different heights. I stack sheets of paper on top of my rifle to lay the scope on, and add or remove sheets to get the height right. Then, I can measure the stack of paper to help me calculate the height rings I want.

 

[rcs9250]

I try to buy all my rifles with adjustable cheekpieces, it allows me to get my eye/head exactly where it needs to be. My TX 200 is the only one with fixed cheekpiece but with the Sportsmatch one piece mount I bought, it’s just right.
My cheek weld spot to eye distance is kinda high so with non-adjustable cheekpieces on my PB’s they sometimes broke the “as close to the barrel as possible” rule. But on my remaining Tikka PB’s I put KRG Bravo stocks on them which have adjustable cheekpieces, so getting a nice weld is easy.
With scope heights typically high on PCP’s because of magazine height you do get a lot of necessary compensation on turrets or reticle graduations. When I set up a gun I make a dope chart for every 5 yards from 10 to 50 yards, my typical hunting distance realm. I keep a picture of it on my phone and a laminated copy in my shirt pocket while hunting.
Last week I ranged a groundhog at 38 yards, referenced my dope chart and put a pellet right in it’s cranial vault.
I typically use hold overs so I don’t forget to dial but some of my dope cards have both dialing and come ups (or downs).

 

[Gerry52]

Everyone's physiology is different & then, consider the scope's dimensions, magazine's dimensions, etc, etc. Natural comfort & least amount of stress causing position is what's always been the determinating factor for me (along with magazine clearance).