Wheeler anti can't scope lever which retracts and sticks out further than any other level I have seen and is easy to see and read.
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What is your favorite bubble level?
- Thread starter cmatera
- Start date
Had one of those and returned it. Mine never returned to the same position when reopening it, there was play in the pivot pin. Very disappointing.
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The wheeler anti can’t swing out is all I use, on all my Airguns and powder burners. Simple stuff.
Mr. Grimm, I know what your talking about. I had to fold in and snap back out a few times, till I found a happy medium of where it’ll level out “most” of the time. You ought to get another one and re try. Maybe you got one that just wasn’t put together right from the factory.
i recently bought the cheap picatinny style anti cant levels that you mount on your scope rail. I bought it not at all for using as an anti cant, but for checking to see the differences in level to the three items below during a scope mount session-
1. tops of the bottom halves of the scope rings
2. Top of elevation turret, or at the base of the turret(some scopes have an ample space flat landing at the top of the scope)
3. And lastly, to compare it to my anti can’t level when all set.
What I found so far on one gun, my Bully, goes in line with what Nervoustrigger has said all along, and that is to not trust your scope rail as a point of level @ side to side. My scope rail was way off when compared to items 1 thru 3.
Mr. Grimm, I know what your talking about. I had to fold in and snap back out a few times, till I found a happy medium of where it’ll level out “most” of the time. You ought to get another one and re try. Maybe you got one that just wasn’t put together right from the factory.
i recently bought the cheap picatinny style anti cant levels that you mount on your scope rail. I bought it not at all for using as an anti cant, but for checking to see the differences in level to the three items below during a scope mount session-
1. tops of the bottom halves of the scope rings
2. Top of elevation turret, or at the base of the turret(some scopes have an ample space flat landing at the top of the scope)
3. And lastly, to compare it to my anti can’t level when all set.
What I found so far on one gun, my Bully, goes in line with what Nervoustrigger has said all along, and that is to not trust your scope rail as a point of level @ side to side. My scope rail was way off when compared to items 1 thru 3.
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This is the bubble level I mount on all my scoped rifles. Well made, lifetime guarantee, and you can see it while looking thru you scope...IF you shoot with both eyes open..https://www.amazon.com/Vortex-Optics-Riflescope-Bubble-Level/dp/B003JP4WU2/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3LJHBZVUF2WS3&keywords=vortex+scope+level+30mm&qid=1563758061&s=gateway&sprefix=vortex+scope+%2Caps%2C222&sr=8-3
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One option is to mount it on your air tube. I modied and mounted a 34 mm scope level on my GLADIATOR front air cylinder. The extra distance forward allowed me to focus in on it better.
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I've been happy with SWFA's bubble level. I have them on all my rifles. The height and offset doesn't get in the way of the side focus knob and elevation turret. I also like the fact that there are no sharp edges on the level.
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I've used simple $18 bubble levels like Hawke Sport Optics model 64100 for 9-11 mm dovetail grooves on springers and my PCP with fine results. Hawke also has a model 64101 for Weaver style bases.
Before you buy a level (especially an expensive one), look at pictures of various models and their mounting locations. Then shoulder you gun, look through your scope and consider which level can be installed so as to require the least amount of head movement to see once you have acquired your target in your scope. Remember, these levels can be installed either left or right so look with both eyes to find the best location. Not everyone places their cheek on the same spot on the stock, not everyone's scope has the same eye relief or is mounted in the same height rings. What works best for one individual may not work best for you. You are best served if you can simply move your eyes from the cross hairs to the level without having to move your head from the stock.
Good luck friend.
Before you buy a level (especially an expensive one), look at pictures of various models and their mounting locations. Then shoulder you gun, look through your scope and consider which level can be installed so as to require the least amount of head movement to see once you have acquired your target in your scope. Remember, these levels can be installed either left or right so look with both eyes to find the best location. Not everyone places their cheek on the same spot on the stock, not everyone's scope has the same eye relief or is mounted in the same height rings. What works best for one individual may not work best for you. You are best served if you can simply move your eyes from the cross hairs to the level without having to move your head from the stock.
Good luck friend.
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I love this scope bubble level: https://www.hancockarmory.com/lone-star-precision-new-scope-bubble-level_p0119.html. I bought this one with low expectations, but at last, it surprised me. Lightweight and easy to mount.
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I just got this over the weekend on advice from @jwrabbit123 - aside from being extremely well made, the benefits to this one are up to 1 degree of can't detection (the level is curved) and the ability to add a tritium vile behind the level for illumination:
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I just got this over the weekend on advice from @jwrabbit123 - aside from being extremely well made, the benefits to this one are up to 1 degree of can't detection (the level is curved) and the ability to add a tritium vile behind the level for illumination:
I've had several of these over the years and they always seemed to be a little more accurate than a simple bubble.
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I just got this over the weekend on advice from @jwrabbit123 - aside from being extremely well made, the benefits to this one are up to 1 degree of can't detection (the level is curved) and the ability to add a tritium vile behind the level for illumination:
I put one on a gun about a week ago. Same recommendation. My crappy eyesight makes it hard to see in most lighting conditions though.
I just need to knock one lens out of a pair of glasses, so I can see it and through the scope. Simple.
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