What brand or type of lead removing solvent have you had the best success with?
I do this to all my barrels, as a matter of course. I was just seeing what folks are using as far as chemical solvents go, made to dissolve leading. I hadn't found any dedicated posts on the solvent subject so far.You are only going to need a single tight patch once you lapp, polish and wax your barrel.
I have never done this to any of my barrels. What are the benefits?You are only going to need a single tight patch once you lapp, polish and wax your barrel.
"Accuracy falling off" is generally considered a slight decrease in accuracy. Your groups open from 1/2" to 3/4". Both could still be used responsibly. Accuracy doesn't suddenly fall off a cliff. Fliers are seldom the sudden result of dirty barrel. It's usually the fault of the shooter or ammo. You run the risk ofI started when I was leading badly while shooting slugs. Lapping/polishing/waxing allowed me to shoot more slugs without fouling so bad and allowed me to do a one patch cleaning at the end of a session.
I've never understood the concept of shooting until accuracy falls off. My military training and good hunting practices do not allow me to have a bore that has the possibility of throwing a flier, causing an injury instead of a kill.
Every time you pull the trigger. It's an unfortunate fact in hunting anything.causing an injury instead of a kill
I never clean airgun barrels except the day I get them. If used they get broomed out with a bronze brush dipped in Hoppes bore cleaner. If new I start at the next step. I clean the bore with a damp patch and then polish the bore with JB paste. After that never again.
By staying with soft lead pellets (at springer velocities) lead never accumulates to detrimental levels. My rifles shoot great and some have tens of thousands of shots since last cleaned. If you shoot hard lead pellets like Crosman you may need to occasionally clean due to the higher antimony content. I don't use lead free pellets so I don't know if the tin fouls barrels.
Personally I find removing all the leading detrimental to accuracy. Sometimes it can take a couple hundred shots before accuracy returns after a good scrubbing. I stay with soft lead pellets and I don't ever have to clean a barrel.
"Accuracy falling off" is generally considered a slight decrease in accuracy. Your groups open from 1/2" to 3/4". Both could still be used responsibly. Accuracy doesn't suddenly fall off a cliff. Fliers are seldom the sudden result of dirty barrel. It's usually the fault of the shooter or ammo. You run the risk of
Every time you pull the trigger. It's an unfortunate fact in hunting anything.
We'll have to agree to disagree.No, it's not. I don't pull the trigger until I have a sure shot. If my gun "can" miss, I don't pull the trigger.
I have perhaps thousands of Starlings to pop at 100y plus but I don't pull the trigger on them.
Even a pest deserves to die clean.
When a barrel is scrubbed to bare steel it can take anywhere between 50 and 200 shots to lead the barrel smooth and get your best accuracy. I've experienced this at least with my Weihrauchs and the ones I've tuned. I've seen similar issues at the range with my powder burners. Perhaps all my barrels are just junk.Tell me more about this 100-200 shots needed to foul the barrel enough to shoot well.
You must be referring to firearms, propelled by powder explosion, NOT airguns. Different animal entirely. Airguns DO require a certain amount of beneficiary leading. Sorry if you weren't aware of that.I'm not picking on you Ron, I just don't get the concept of leading up a barrel so much that it shoots better.
My whole life, I've been taught to keep them clean.