N/A What Makes a PCP Airgun Easy to Work On?

It is always difficult on ANY rifle.

First of all confirm that you have the new o'ring exactly of the correct size.

I unfold a clip and then make a 90 degrees fold in the tip. It should be smaller than the internal diameter of the barrel.

Once the new o'ring is dully lubricated I insert it to the middle of the o'ring into the barrel by the sidemof the barrel you load the pellet.

Then I insert the folded tip through the o'ring and then with an Allen wrench I push the the rest of the o'ring inside the barrel and then pull the o'ring with the folded tip of the clip in order t make it seat in the chanel it should seat.

If anyone has a better way to solve this frequent problem, PLEASE SHARE !!
Thanks, I appreciate the advice.
I talked with Tony from Talon Tunes and he recommended the same process.
I'm going to be extra careful decocking from now on.
Again, much appreciated.
 
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For me, what eliminates the frustration and drudgery of installing a new breech O-ring is simply positioning the end of a dowel at the edge of the O-ring groove. In other words, something to act as a stop so when the O-ring gets close, it has no choice but to squirt sideways and into the groove.

Sometimes it will pop into place instantly by simply pushing it with a short segment of the same diameter dowel. Or at worst, it may require a few pokes with the blunt end of a hex key.

If you don’t have a dowel that’s just the right diameter to fill the bore, simply wrap a few turns of electrical tape or duct tape until it does.

No dowel at all? Use an X-acto blade or box cutter to trim the head of a domed pellet to a flat (like a wadcutter), then insert it backwards. Flare the skirt slightly so it doesn’t slide too easily, or start by inserting one pellet normally before inserting the reversed one. Two pellets skirt-to-skirt will not wedge in the bore but will usually provide just enough resistance to stay positioned at the edge of the groove to help guide the O-ring into place.
 
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For me, what eliminates the frustration and drudgery of installing a new breech O-ring is simply positioning the end of a dowel at the edge of the O-ring groove. In other words, something to act as a stop so when the O-ring gets close, it has no choice but to squirt sideways and into the groove.

Sometimes it will pop into place instantly by simply pushing it with a short segment of the same diameter dowel. Or at worst, it may require a few pokes with the blunt end of a hex key.

If you don’t have a dowel that’s just the right diameter to fill the bore, simply wrap a few turns of electrical tape or duct tape until it does.

No dowel at all? Use an X-acto blade or box cutter to trim the head of a domed pellet to a flat (like a wadcutter), then insert it backwards. Flare the skirt slightly so it doesn’t slide too easily, or start by inserting one pellet normally before inserting the reversed one. Two pellets skirt-to-skirt will not wedge in the bore but will usually provide just enough resistance to stay positioned at the edge of the groove to help guide the O-ring into place.
Thank you. That sounds simple enough.
 
For me, what eliminates the frustration and drudgery of installing a new breech O-ring is simply positioning the end of a dowel at the edge of the O-ring groove. In other words, something to act as a stop so when the O-ring gets close, it has no choice but to squirt sideways and into the groove.

Sometimes it will pop into place instantly by simply pushing it with a short segment of the same diameter dowel. Or at worst, it may require a few pokes with the blunt end of a hex key.

If you don’t have a dowel that’s just the right diameter to fill the bore, simply wrap a few turns of electrical tape or duct tape until it does.

No dowel at all? Use an X-acto blade or box cutter to trim the head of a domed pellet to a flat (like a wadcutter), then insert it backwards. Flare the skirt slightly so it doesn’t slide too easily, or start by inserting one pellet normally before inserting the reversed one. Two pellets skirt-to-skirt will not wedge in the bore but will usually provide just enough resistance to stay positioned at the edge of the groove to help guide the O-ring into place.
@Em
I use a cleaning rod with a plastic jag down the barrel as a stop. I always fear dropping the o-ring down the transfer port, so this is a double benefit. Takes me about a minute or two to install the breech o-ring

I use a cleaning rod with a plastic jag down the barrel as a stop. I always fear dropping the o-ring down the transfer port, so this is a double benefit. Takes me about a minute or two to install the breech o-ring.
@Emu said I'd get some great tips for this problem.
I appreciate your's and everyone's input.
It's taken my stress level down quite a bit!
 
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Inevitably o rings will eventually dry out and fail, it stands to reason therefore the fewer the amount the fewer the problems, The same logic applies to the number of parts, the fewer the better.
Any gun that has a regulator will be inherently less reliable than one without, the same is true for gauges and fill probes. Guns designed and built 30 years were often made to be easily serviced at home with minimal tools, more modern guns are becoming less and less serviceable, some electronics that are now fitted require the attention of an space engineer.

Less is definitely more when it comes to reliability and servicing.

Bb
 
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15 years(?) in the hobby. Something along those lines. Nearly 40 years of doing my own PB gunsmithing.

The biggest factor (for me at least, but I suspect for most) is documentation. The more and better the information you have going in, the better you can plan and be prepared and the more likely you are to get it right. Particularly details like o-ring specs.

After that, it's nice if the fasteners are standard and a single standard is used throughout as much as possible.

No 'booby traps' in disassembly - where multiple parts will spontaneously come out (often avoidable if you have good documentation).

I have a huge number of tools, and the tools to make tools, so that's not an issue for me - I don't mind if something takes a special tool, particularly if that tool is documented as well.

GsT