What reticle do you prefer?

For many years I've been a casual shooter of mostly short-range paper targets. That makes reticle choice relatively easy for me. At least compared to a guy who needs to track a moving animal through their scope while crouching amidst a tangle of trees and branches.

A couple of years ago I was able to buy and directly compare about dozen SFP airgun scopes in the $200 to $500 range, most of them with illuminated reticles. Many forum threads on scope focus on the clarity of the optics, which is certainly a big deal with tiny targets at longer (>75 yard?) airgun ranges. Lens coatings and precision gearing in scopes have improved a lot in the past few decades and I'd expect all of them to have at least acceptable if not stellar clarity at airgun ranges.

After lining up all of the scopes side-by-side I found that the most important characteristic for 'usability' was the size and comfort of the eye box. Meaning how far I could move my eye around the space in front of the eyepiece while still keeping both the target and reticle in sharp focus. Needing to hunt around each time you shoulder a rifle to get into the correct eye position for your scope is a bad thing.

And then there were the reticles.

Maybe 30 years ago I bought my first good Leupold scope. It cost me a lot at the time and I couldn't wait to try it. I figured that the 'fine target reticle' was just what I needed for all of the fine target work I imagined that I'd be using it for. Well, that reticle was so fine that it was useless since I could hardly see it. Since then, I've preferred a partially lighted reticle. And it needs to be bright enough to be seen in daylight when turned up.

After comparing the scopes I sold all of them except for a couple of Athlons with BDC 600 IR reticles.
They have an illuminated center cross, visible in sunlight, with bold outer posts. Very simple and traditional.

Athlon has a list of their many other reticles here --> https://theopticzone.com/athlon-reticles/


Athlon BDC 600 IR reticles.jpg


JP
 
I am a clicker, so i only use the Christmas tree reticle when changing distance and gauge how APPROX clicks i have to adjust mainly elevation but with a increase also often sideways adjustment have to be made.

Some times i get it bang on with just 1 shot, but i will at times need 2-3 shots to accommodate increased sideways wind load.

Or that is used to, CUZ i have now changed distance so often that i know going from 55 M to 118 M i have to adjust so many clicks

It is extremely rare i use hold over / under to shoot in general.

Which remind me.

Shooting paintballs at 100 M yesterday with the usual 13 gr Zan. a dove landed in a treetop way behind my friends property, so i changed to 119 M adjusted for that and did 1 shot that was 5 clicks low, i then added 30 more clicks CUZ that bird was far away.

Took a shot at it and i removed a few feathers from its tail and it then flew away.
I would have hit it if i had remembered to hold for the additional longer from the left wind exposure, i am sure 1/2 MIL or 5 clicks i think would have done the trick CUZ not much wind.

Then picked up range finder, and to my astonishment that tree top was at 202 Meters or 220 yards, shooting up at a 15-20 deg angle.
 
Sfp with a floating dot and not much else.
Ditto. The plainer, the simpler. I’m a dialer so dead center is all I need. Unless it’s really windy I don’t need windage comp in the woods and short distances I’m typically working within. My scope is set to 8x and I leave it there.
 
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