What should i do for a finish?

I see you mention a dip. I dip alot of things, and I'd strongly suggest not dipping wood or a full stock for your first foray. If you must dip, find a sacrificial stock and practice alot. Otherwise be ready for alot of attempts and re dips, unless it's a pretty abstract blotchy pattern where exact transfer is not that important.
I was looking at some techniques for dipping after this post the other day. I can definitely see how it can go wrong in a hurry, especially with larger size items
 
I was looking at some techniques for dipping after this post the other day. I can definitely see how it can go wrong in a hurry, especially with larger size items
The one nice thing about dipping though is generally, if you mess up you can just re sand, re prime/paint and re dip.

If anyone wants to try an entire stock though, I'd suggest dipping one side at a time. Doing the whole stock in one go is not for the faint of heart and it usually ends up buggered.
 
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Again...don't forget "vinyl" wraps.
Lots of pattern and color variations to choose from.

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Mike
 
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I have used shoe polish on stocks with great results. It brings out the grain of the wood and polishes nicely with a soft cloth. Have used this in several colors. Test it on the bed of the stock or butt to test the colors. I use Angelus Shoe Wax.
Do you put any finish on shoe polish after. Poly, wax, shellac?
 
Here's were I got my idea for using it several years ago.

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Shoe Polish Stock Finish

#1 · Sep 20, 2008
I did not know where to stick this one,and it can be moved to a proper place.
Now...many years ago I wandered into the custom shop at Winchester/New Haven to look around. I was surprised to see one of those old masters using shoe polish on a high grade gun! This I had to see!
He was using Coachman Oxblood/Cordovan on the finished wood. He told me it was the carnauba wax working into the grain, plus the reddish/brown color matched the old WW finish.
Since then, I have used it on old dry finsh stocks indeed. Many times these old stocked are ruined by newbies...too much sanding. etc. a better way is to go over the old stock with very fine steel wool and then apply several coats of shoe polish....it gives that stock an old deep classic finish.
So, before to start sanding, etc...give this a try. I recently did an old dry Enfield 1853 stock a going over and the results is outstanding! If you can not find Coachman, use Kiwi.
Use an old washrag and rub the polish in deep. Let it set awhile a buff it some with a soft rag. Apply it into the old checking, let dry, and clean it out with a soft brush.
Regards, James
 
Here's were I got my idea for using it several years ago.

SHOOTERS FORUM
Shoe Polish Stock Finish

#1 · Sep 20, 2008
I did not know where to stick this one,and it can be moved to a proper place.
Now...many years ago I wandered into the custom shop at Winchester/New Haven to look around. I was surprised to see one of those old masters using shoe polish on a high grade gun! This I had to see!
He was using Coachman Oxblood/Cordovan on the finished wood. He told me it was the carnauba wax working into the grain, plus the reddish/brown color matched the old WW finish.
Since then, I have used it on old dry finsh stocks indeed. Many times these old stocked are ruined by newbies...too much sanding. etc. a better way is to go over the old stock with very fine steel wool and then apply several coats of shoe polish....it gives that stock an old deep classic finish.
So, before to start sanding, etc...give this a try. I recently did an old dry Enfield 1853 stock a going over and the results is outstanding! If you can not find Coachman, use Kiwi.
Use an old washrag and rub the polish in deep. Let it set awhile a buff it some with a soft rag. Apply it into the old checking, let dry, and clean it out with a soft brush.
Regards, James
That sounds like something I want to try on a future project. Very cool to have been to their custom shop. Slightly off topic but I think the New Haven era M70 Classics are maybe the best ones ever. I could be biased because I bought a stainless synthetic 300 Win Mag the first year that caliber was available with the BOSS thingy and since picked up a used 2007 Super Grade in same caliber.
 
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I sprayed a coat of flat black primer on it and sanded back with 600 wet to find my low spots. Tons of them, so I will be sanding it down again with 80 and back up. I will try a grain filler/sealer and some oil or dye after that. The down time is killing me since this has been my go to starling gun as of late.

I did however swap the spring and tried it over the chrony to see what it'll do. Just a .038 spring and a shim brought it up from 16 fpe to 22 fpe. Still super quiet, but now it's not as accurate with its original preferred pellet. It likes baracuda match now. Need to try JSB 18s, but it hates the hades now. Shot guns them at 15 yards.
 
I sprayed a coat of flat black primer on it and sanded back with 600 wet to find my low spots. Tons of them, so I will be sanding it down again with 80 and back up. I will try a grain filler/sealer and some oil or dye after that. The down time is killing me since this has been my go to starling gun as of late.

I did however swap the spring and tried it over the chrony to see what it'll do. Just a .038 spring and a shim brought it up from 16 fpe to 22 fpe. Still super quiet, but now it's not as accurate with its original preferred pellet. It likes baracuda match now. Need to try JSB 18s, but it hates the hades now. Shot guns them at 15 yards.
I believe you need another air rife to help with your starling down time! 😁
 
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