What springer did you shoot today?

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HW30sc .20cal, Nikko 3x9 Airking.
30 and 75 yards of plinking fun.

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On my seventh tin of FX .20cal 13.?? Gr. Plus about a hundred H&N FT’s.
Always a good day with this guy.

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crowski said:
I have it set at 16 bar. Love this gun. It throws JSB 15.89’s 780 fps. Crow
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Does it come from the factory about 26 bar? I have the .20 cal in the older model stock. Without the gauge I attempted to let some air out. Well, I let too much out and now it’s about a 300 fps probably. Waiting to get my gauge and pump
 
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rapstarD said:
Does it come from the factory about 26 bar? I have the .20 cal in the older model stock. Without the gauge I attempted to let some air out. Well, I let too much out and now it’s about a 300 fps probably. Waiting to get my gauge and pump
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I got the .25 cal. first. It was ridiculous to jack and you just look at it, it would fire. I bought the pump and gauge when I got the .20. Night and day. And the .25 trigger is sweet. Never touched it. Not the same gun. Just turned down to 16 bar. Crow
 
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RCope said:
Some more pellet testing with my .22 Prosport because a have 19 different pellets to test. Then that moment when you realize your favorite actually likes the cheap stuff... :)
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Love the gun and the chrony, I'm getting that Garmin as soon as feasible.
 
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harrympope said:
I love my HW30 .20,it's such a sweet shooting rifle.Ive not tried the lighter FTT pellets but probably should
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I haven't had a reason to change..,,,
Well, that is until my tin ran out and I was to lazy to go get a new one, so,, I had the FT's handy and they held me over, till it was to dark to see.
The FT's only needed minimal scope corection in windage. They shot well at 30 and 75 yards.
 
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No, not yet. Apparently it has a light oil finish. I may put some tung oil on it, but I'm worried about getting it into the checkering and over darkening it. I probably will work in some paste wax. It would be easier to avoid the checkering, and still give it a bit more color and depth with a light sheen. And that wouldn't burn any bridges. One of my other hobbies is woodworking, but I hate finishing.
 
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RCope said:
No, not yet. Apparently it has a light oil finish. I may put some tung oil on it, but I'm worried about getting it into the checkering and over darkening it. I probably will work in some paste wax. It would be easier to avoid the checkering, and still give it a bit more color and depth with a light sheen. And that wouldn't burn any bridges. One of my other hobbies is woodworking, but I hate finishing.
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Yeah I've pretty much settled on 100% pure tung oil also, but haven't bought any yet. I also don't won't to over darken the checkering. I read it takes close to a month to fully cure. I don't won't to be down waiting on it to dry..lol. I would like to fill the pores though, my whiskers get caught on the stock a couple of times.😂
 
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RCope said:
No, not yet. Apparently it has a light oil finish. I may put some tung oil on it, but I'm worried about getting it into the checkering and over darkening it. I probably will work in some paste wax. It would be easier to avoid the checkering, and still give it a bit more color and depth with a light sheen. And that wouldn't burn any bridges. One of my other hobbies is woodworking, but I hate finishing.
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I have Johnsons paste wax as well, not sure how that would turn out and if it would even stay on, or have a waxy feel.
 
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bustachip said:
I have Johnsons paste wax as well, not sure how that would turn out and if it would even stay on, or have a waxy feel.
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Maybe this will help you...The tung oil is darker and if you wet sand you can fill the pores. The wax is designed as a finish and is not "waxy" when it cures. But no ability to fill pores. Pictures from two angles, raw walnut in the center.
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RCope said:
Maybe this will help you...The tung oil is darker and if you wet sand you can fill the pores. The wax is designed as a finish and is not "waxy" when it cures. But no ability to fill pores. Pictures from two angles, raw walnut in the center.
View attachment 423061View attachment 423062
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I like the tung oil better, even though that minwax is not real tung oil, it's a mixture of couple of things, I think it drys faster though. I was looking at that first, but after researching I'm leaning toward the 100% real tung oil.
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