What springer did you shoot today?

The cold doesn’t bother me but the wind does, so I worked on guns in my shop.
Putting another TBT spring set in a HW95 .22. I find the 95 family easy to disassemble to work on. Wish the 35, 77, 80 and 97 were the same.
This piston seal,doesn’t have 2000 rounds through it. View attachment 512739Replaced with a Vortek. Going together tonight. Crow
Man those seals don't last no time.
 
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These last long time, maybe forever....
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😉
 
The cold doesn’t bother me but the wind does, so I worked on guns in my shop.
Putting another TBT spring set in a HW95 .22. I find the 95 family easy to disassemble to work on. Wish the 35, 77, 80 and 97 were the same.
This piston seal,doesn’t have 2000 rounds through it. View attachment 512739Replaced with a Vortek. Going together tonight. Crow
A 95 is the same as a 50/99. But the HW30's are the easiest. Two pins for the trigger and push against the workbench to relieve pressure on the retaining screw holding the back block.
 
The cold doesn’t bother me but the wind does, so I worked on guns in my shop.
Putting another TBT spring set in a HW95 .22. I find the 95 family easy to disassemble to work on. Wish the 35, 77, 80 and 97 were the same.
This piston seal,doesn’t have 2000 rounds through it. View attachment 512739Replaced with a Vortek. Going together tonight. Crow
Crow, are you using TBT UK (< 12 ft. lbs.) or US power springs?
 
Four this afternoon, all .22 cal. First a HW95, then AA Pro Sport, then HW 98, and finally Diana AirKing Pro. I had made up a new, extra pellet trap on an elevated stand, and stretched my shooting out to about 50 yards. I was having trouble with shots from the ProSport going everywhere, and finally got out the allen wrenches and tightened all the stock screws and that helped. Finally stopped as my arms were getting tired from cocking, especially with the Diana. Conditions were just about perfect, outside temp upper 60's, very light breeze, and bright sunshine. I also put up a little turkey swinger made for .22LR and was swinging it regularly out at that distance.
 
Shot the first shots with a zeroed scope today.
HW95 .20 cal.
20241114_172226.jpg

I haven't seen any deiseling yet?
I shot a couple 2 inch groups at 75y.
The second stage of the trigger pull has a long creep prior to firing that made holding on target difficult, so I need to address that next.
20241114_172227.jpg
 
Shot the first shots with a zeroed scope today.
HW95 .20 cal.
View attachment 512956
I haven't seen any deiseling yet?
I shot a couple 2 inch groups at 75y.
The second stage of the trigger pull has a long creep prior to firing that made holding on target difficult, so I need to address that next.
View attachment 512955
Nice looking rifle and stock. The forbidden T8 torx screw under the trigger guard will help you in your endeavors for a cleaner break.
 
Had a bit of time this afternoon to pellet test my new rifle...a Beeman RX2 with a custom stock. Courtesy of a great member here. It's a gas ram (by Theoben) made by Weihrauch, sold by Beeman in .20. What's not to like, right? Super accurate with both the JSB 13.7 and 15.9. The HN offerings, 11.4 and 13.6, not as good. FPE around 12.3. Very smooth and quiet. @Keahi was not sure about the provenance of the stock, and even though I am a woodworker, I can't even tell the species of wood. The grain reminds me of mahogany, but appears tighter and heavier (although it's tough to tell the weight since I didn't disassemble it). The stock is a bit wider than average, feels balanced but heavy, which helps smooth every thing out.
IMG_5733.jpg
 
I also tested some lighter pellets in my HW30 at the encouragement of @Greenarrow , JSB 7.33 and AA 7.33, both were very accurate and increased the FPE to 7.3ish with the higher velocity. Interestingly, the first shot was very loud and my Garmin read 950 fps! I have smelled dieseling, but this was "ignition"! The next shot went out at 670 fps. The first time I have experienced that...Cheers! Rick
 
Yes I watched a few Rekord Trigger videos last night to get prepaired.
The stock is the 95n Walnut option.
👍
If you take the action out of the stock you'll be able to see the trigger sears through the hole in the trigger housing. Actually you would need to remove the trigger unit out of the action to really see the sears working. Then you can look at it before you adjust and see how far the sear moves back through the first stage and stops. Then adjust the T8 screw 1/8 to 1/4 turn and reset the trigger and pull through the first stage again to see how much it changed. Although it's not necessary, it helps you understand what you're doing and how much it moves when you adjust it.
If you set it too much on a knifes edge, you'll be able to bump fire it if you hit the butt stock and it won't be safe, same as when you back out the trigger weight screw too much. (the big slotted screw). Since you have to remove the trigger guard to adjust the T8, it seems to change the pull somewhat when you put the trigger guard back on and try it. I made a little bracket to secure the action with the trigger guard off, so I could adjust and test fire. But like I said it seems to change a little once the trigger guard is reinstalled. YMMV.
 
If you take the action out of the stock you'll be able to see the trigger sears through the hole in the trigger housing. Actually you would need to remove the trigger unit out of the action to really see the sears working. Then you can look at it before you adjust and see how far the sear moves back through the first stage and stops. Then adjust the T8 screw 1/8 to 1/4 turn and reset the trigger and pull through the first stage again to see how much it changed. Although it's not necessary, it helps you understand what you're doing and how much it moves when you adjust it.
If you set it too much on a knifes edge, you'll be able to bump fire it if you hit the butt stock and it won't be safe, same as when you back out the trigger weight screw too much. (the big slotted screw). Since you have to remove the trigger guard to adjust the T8, it seems to change the pull somewhat when you put the trigger guard back on and try it. I made a little bracket to secure the action with the trigger guard off, so I could adjust and test fire. But like I said it seems to change a little once the trigger guard is reinstalled. YMMV.
So far my plan is to access the sear adjustment screw by removing the trigger guard only, make small adjustments while shooting on the bench.
 
If you take the action out of the stock you'll be able to see the trigger sears through the hole in the trigger housing. Actually you would need to remove the trigger unit out of the action to really see the sears working. Then you can look at it before you adjust and see how far the sear moves back through the first stage and stops. Then adjust the T8 screw 1/8 to 1/4 turn and reset the trigger and pull through the first stage again to see how much it changed. Although it's not necessary, it helps you understand what you're doing and how much it moves when you adjust it.
If you set it too much on a knifes edge, you'll be able to bump fire it if you hit the butt stock and it won't be safe, same as when you back out the trigger weight screw too much. (the big slotted screw). Since you have to remove the trigger guard to adjust the T8, it seems to change the pull somewhat when you put the trigger guard back on and try it. I made a little bracket to secure the action with the trigger guard off, so I could adjust and test fire. But like I said it seems to change a little once the trigger guard is reinstalled. YMMV.
Excellent information. Thanks for sharing