Or make like a "bakery truck" and haul buns...lol.lol. When the end of shift proverbial bell rings. I say “Time to kick rocks”
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What springer did you shoot today?
- Thread starter crowski
- Start date
It started more like this with scope firmly against it.
You think that the pellet is going to stop it?
Or does it get sheered off?
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eventually smashed flat..lol. Why not just put the stop pin in the receiver stop pin hole, then push it to the rear and tighten it down, done, no more slippage.
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Huh? I’ve got a stop pin somewhere around here? Lol
Actually my plan has been to put the propper size steel ball in there that would get pinched under the edge of the ring.
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Careful with squeezing your round things. It could be uhhhh, noticeable! If you feel nauseous BACK OFF! Be Well, Brothers, dito.
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Try some Vibra Tite VC3 on the adjustment screws and you can still adjust them without reapplying. It's a little expensive for a such little tube that you'll eventually find hardened. But good stuff.Fun fun fun, with the 35e. Had some really awful mixed with great shots. I actually clipped two of the hanging targets, strings dropping them to the ground.
I was using .22cal JSB 13.43's, at 75-yards.
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The wind was all over the place, switching directions before I could shoot, rendering compensation useless, then laying down for a flurry of shots.
The scope was still coming down the rails, improving my eye relief, but causing elevation re-zeros about every hundred rounds. I shot a whole tin, bringing the total shots for the new gun to apx 750. Scope slippage was about 3/8" for the whole tin.
As I finished off the tin, I noticed the rifle starting to fire early, but the issue still hadn't dawned on me yet. I thought wow I need to lighten up on my grip. When shot placement finally took a back seat to the problem, I reached down and screwed the adjustment screw back in with my finger's.
On the bench:
I lubed the cocking shoe with moly to smooth the stroke back out.
I put some blue lock tight on the weight adjust screw, "which would unscrew itself", then I wanted to take some creep out only to find that T8 screw as loose as the other.it was so loose that I didn't how much I may have moved it. So I tightened the spring pressure, and "carefully" took it and test fired it with a hair trigger. I got all that set propper and put red locktight on both adjustments.
I mounted the HW95's scope on it for a test run because those rings don't slip.
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Test time L8Ter!
Red locktite use is questionable on the aluminum screw. If you want to turn it again without heat you risk buggering the screw slot and/or pulling the threads off.
Might help to degrease your dovetails if you haven't already to prevent slippage.
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The adjustment screws still turn, as I tuned it more yesterday, dialing it in to perfection. They were by no means stiff, but they aren’t going to fall out either.
I hadn’t degreased the scope rails, but it’s dry and clean up there? It’s worth a try.
I can see that I’m going to have to drill, tap, and pin them with a grub screw.
I was just shooting and about 5 rounds ago I uttered (looks like the pellet wins) followed by an elevation change I looked the pellet over and made the elevation correction. A couple shots later and the pellet was sheerd off. Lol
Ok the Rifle Wins! 
The pellet’s skirt is under the rings.
It must have cut it a while ago and was just dragging the pellets head along until it finally fell out, as you can see it’s way past the scope stop hole.
I hadn’t degreased the scope rails, but it’s dry and clean up there? It’s worth a try.
I can see that I’m going to have to drill, tap, and pin them with a grub screw.
I was just shooting and about 5 rounds ago I uttered (looks like the pellet wins) followed by an elevation change I looked the pellet over and made the elevation correction. A couple shots later and the pellet was sheerd off. Lol
Ok the Rifle Wins!
The pellet’s skirt is under the rings.
It must have cut it a while ago and was just dragging the pellets head along until it finally fell out, as you can see it’s way past the scope stop hole.
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Couple of observations. 1 you need a stop pin in the receiver, and 2 you aren't tightening the base clamps enough. They shouldn't be sliding back that easily. Maybe a small creep, but it shouldn't be noticeable by eye. Exactly why I don't go by the torque specs..lol.
I had to bend the tab and peen the side of it with a punch to stop my HW30 screw from backing out, but it's good now.
I had to bend the tab and peen the side of it with a punch to stop my HW30 screw from backing out, but it's good now.
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I am 15lbs over torque specs for those rail screws.
I will drill, & tap, a grub screw in the rings to provide a lock pin, and lock them.
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Maybe need to be 20 over spec..lol. I was just thinking about you, I have "my" HW30 torn down for a complete tune. And I just made a bronze bushing for the stop pin hole, so there's no movement at all. Also keeps from elongating the receiver hole, when being pounded by the scope ring, slipping on under torqued screws.I am 15lbs over torque specs for those rail screws.
I will drill, & tap, a grub screw in the rings to provide a lock pin, and lock them.
Naw, I'm just poking fun, no harm no foul.You should be good once you get the pin in the hole.
We're rooting for ya!!
Not that I need it on the HW30, but I'm already here so why not, right.
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Nice! I like it!Maybe need to be 20 over spec..lol. I was just thinking about you, I have "my" HW30 torn down for a complete tune. And I just made a bronze bushing for the stop pin hole, so there's no movement at all. Also keeps from elongating the receiver hole, when being pounded by the scope ring, slipping on under torqued screws.
You should be good once you get the pin in the hole.
We're rooting for ya!!
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View attachment 523802
Not that I need it on the HW30, but I'm already here so why not, right.
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If you use typical lopsided side clamp rings will the screw hit the hole in the bushing?Maybe need to be 20 over spec..lol. I was just thinking about you, I have "my" HW30 torn down for a complete tune. And I just made a bronze bushing for the stop pin hole, so there's no movement at all. Also keeps from elongating the receiver hole, when being pounded by the scope ring, slipping on under torqued screws.
You should be good once you get the pin in the hole.
We're rooting for ya!!
View attachment 523801
View attachment 523802
Not that I need it on the HW30, but I'm already here so why not, right.
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So far it hasn't been a problem. I made the bushing .002" smaller than the receiver hole, and I made the pin hole .002 to .003 bigger than the pin, so it has a little play. Anyway I line up the pin and get it started, then push the ring base to the rear to take out any play, and then tighten the side clamp. Then I'll screw the pin in till it hits bottom, and back it off 1/8 of a turn. I usually blue locktite the pin so it stays where I set it at.
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