What was the torque on the adapter. Just curious as I have the same set-up on a 95 making 17FPE and haven't noticed any movement.This is the set up. There's a stop pin going into the middle receiver hole.
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What was the torque on the adapter. Just curious as I have the same set-up on a 95 making 17FPE and haven't noticed any movement.This is the set up. There's a stop pin going into the middle receiver hole.
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Maybe I didn't have enough torque on the rail screws? I use blue lock tite on the pin so it doesn't move once I screw it in.Ok thanks. I've never had a Sportsmatch ring slide or deform a hole when properly installed. For some reason I thought you were using them. I don't like the UTG stuff. I've had them move and don't ask me how I've had their threaded pins back out of the recoil hole. I see you have the signature Zee rings which are excellent so you need the extra pic trail adapter for them.
Perhaps not enough torque. The Chinese mounts are usually made of poor materials and they'll strip before you get them to tight enough to grip. Also if the dovetail angles aren't cut right they won't hold no matter what. You probably know this already because you're a smart man. It helps to degrease deep into the dovetails with denatured alcohol. Do not put loctite in the dovetails. That's another popular practice that's a big no no.Maybe I didn't have enough torque on the rail screws? I use blue lock tite on the pin so it doesn't move once I screw it in.
Looks nice. I would guess the tube dimensions need to be almost perfect for an o-ring piston seal to function well. Hopefully the power increases once broken in.I got my new 98 #1 back together yesterday. Today I remounted the scope and tried some groups at 10 and 20 yards because the wind is blowing 40mph, be glad when it dies out, but that probably won't be until May.
Anyway, I did make new guides for the factory spring and I made a o-ring piston seal, I decided not to button the piston at this time. at the moment it only gained around 10 to 11 fps faster than before, I'll see if it speeds up or slows down when it's broken in.
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O-ring with krytox on it...
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I also made a bronze stop pin hole bushing, because it had already started deforming from the initial shots when I had the stop pin in the hole. You can see the metal pushed up behind the bushing on the second hole.
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Also here's a short video clip of it firing now, I'm in the garage so the noise is amplified.
I don't hear any spring noise now.I'm still waiting on my Rowan set back trigger blade to show up, so I can go through the trigger.
Oh that last part, there's no bumper like a traditional seal?Looks nice. I would guess the tube dimensions need to be almost perfect for an o-ring piston seal to function well. Hopefully the power increases once broken in.
I remember another gent many years ago making these, I would be curious how they hold up over the long term? Also, if the piston would slam into the transfer port and cause damage if the oring ever failed.
Yes I usually clean the dovetails, but perhaps I didn't clean them good enough along with not enough torque. Thanks for the reminder.Perhaps not enough torque. The Chinese mounts are usually made of poor materials and they'll strip before you get them to tight enough to grip. Also if the dovetail angles aren't cut right they won't hold no matter what. You probably know this already because you're a smart man. It helps to degrease deep into the dovetails with denatured alcohol. Do not put loctite in the dovetails. That's another popular practice that's a big no no.
I go by feel, I don't use a torque driver. This 98 has more recoil than my 97, so I guess it wasn't quite snug enough..lol.What was the torque on the adapter. Just curious as I have the same set-up on a 95 making 17FPE and haven't noticed any movement.
Yes it needs to be fairly straight and round. I made a gage .002 smaller than the bore diameter and it would go the whole way without any hang ups. I could also tell if there were any spots that got big. Mine felt pretty good. Some tubes would need to be honed if there were restrictions, and some not work at all.Looks nice. I would guess the tube dimensions need to be almost perfect for an o-ring piston seal to function well. Hopefully the power increases once broken in.
I remember another gent many years ago making these, I would be curious how they hold up over the long term? Also, if the piston would slam into the transfer port and cause damage if the oring ever failed.
I think that's all he uses in his guns, and he has sealed many guns for people in the past. I don't think he currently does it anymore. There was a guy on the old yellow forums that hunted farms and would post long stories of his adventure's and springer performance. I think his name was Hamilton IIRC, anyway Ed oring sealed his guns and he would tell about how it improved his hunting success in various conditions.Yeah that’s the chap I was thinking of. Apparently these oring seals are holding up ok if he is still using them. Still would make me a little nervous. Especially if someone accidentally dry fired it.
Good groups at 47 yards.Sunny, but a cool 33F. Put another layer back on and boots, all good.
This HW80 .20 is about the third time I shot it. View attachment 547936Came with a BSA scope. The dust covers almost got tossed into lake, what a PITA to screw back on. I like the elastic or rubber stretch covers best. 10 shots 47 yds.View attachment 547937Also a HW80 .22. Sweet gun. This is the gun that got me hooked. It was my buddies.View attachment 547947Look how much melted. The ice on my driveway way 6 inches thick last week. 10 at 47 yds. View attachment 547948Anyway this 80 shoots consistent. The long barrel gives good leverage. Crow