Taipan What would you do with this Taipan cheekpiece and scope ring combination?

I've been using a wooden cheekpiece from my Tactical Stock with my Taipan Veteran and I hate the way it looks with the laminate stock. I just bought some new scope rings and although the 1" rings are too low with the cheekpiece on (although still usable), it is the PERFECT height without the wood cheekpiece. The cheekpiece is about 0.3" thick. I was initially thinking of exchanging the scope rings with the next size up 1.125" and I think that size will be good with the cheekpiece.

My issue is, I'm basically dedicating a $170 set of scope rings for a cheekpiece that I hate. $30, no problem but not $170. The 1.125" rings would be useless to me if I ever decide to do away with the wood cheekpiece because it will be way too high for me for how I like my cheek weld to feel against the gun.

I'm thinking of just doing away with the cheekpiece. Really, my only complaint with the bare Taipan receiver is that it's cold against the face... although it is something I can definitely deal with on a varmint rifle.

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On the other hand, I love how the walnut cheekpiece looks with the Short's brown stock. Although the scope on that gun is much higher, I feel the digital scope has a more forgiving eyebox on the vertical compared to the SWFA scope.

Update: I just checked and yes, this digital scope definitely has a very forgiving eyebox. I can position my eye very low or very high to the point that I'm only seeing less than half the screen. With the SWFA, a difference of 0.125" scope height makes a huge difference because too high or too low and the view of the scope is totally blacked out.

Also, with tonight's practice shooting, I was paying very close attention to my cheek weld. The scope on this gun is indeed quite a bit higher than I prefer, even with the wood cheekpiece. I really like to be tight up against the gun... and I can't really do that with this setup. Still very usable though since this is supposed to be my sub-30-meter gun. Just would be awesome if it's much lower.

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Not sure where I got it but had a section of black felt sticky-back that works great. Doesn't stand out and feels much better against face than cold metal. Suspect a craft store would carry it. WM
Yes, I was actually thinking of cutting up a neoprene with an adhesive on the back. Just as long as the sticky side doesn't leave a residue.
 
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I did this before on my guns. But can also buy a 3D printed one for the Vet1s. Wish I can get one for my Vet2. Will likely do the Neoprene again.

 
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Yes, I was actually thinking of cutting up a neoprene with an adhesive on the back. Just as long as the sticky side doesn't leave a residue.
Stuff I had must be non-permanent glue backing, easily removes without residue but stays put if not peeled off. Looking at both Vets looks like I had enough for top and side of one but only enough for side of other. WM
 
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I did this before on my guns. But can also buy a 3D printed one for the Vet1s. Wish I can get one for my Vet2. Will likely do the Neoprene again.

Yes, I had that with my Long as well but sold it with the gun as I'm not too crazy with the looks of it either. It would be much better for me if it only covered the top and the small angled section on the side. The entire side covered is just too much. I just want it discrete looking.
 
WorriedMan = When I first looked at the pick I thought it looked very clean indeed and my second thought was basically the plush side of a wide piece of adhesive Velcro and leave the plastic loop side in the drawer . lol :cool: Cheap enough fix for me (y). T Y
Very similar product, should work fine. WM
 
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Recalling origins of black velvet sticky-back, remembered working for company years ago that made adhesive/tape products for various industries. Likely a scrap I saved. Product might have been used in automotive industry for rub spots or noise abatement. "Soft" side of velcro is similar and might be easier to find. WM
 
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I agree the cheek piece and stock don't look good together. If you want to keep it I would probably paint it black. Unless you can find a scrap of the same laminate and make a new one I think making it much less visible is the best alternative. Thin wood pieces tend to be delicate too. To get the appearance of wood it's possible to glue a veneer (some is paper backed, some is sticky so it adheres itself) to a plastic or metal piece. But unless you can find veneer of a red laminate it won't match well either.
 
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