Whats a exceptional yardage for zeroing?

It kinda depends on scope height and power level/projectile speed.

I usually zero at 25 yards because that is my backyard, but chairgun and strelok tell me that my FX guns sit high scopes, and the arc goes over the POI unless I zero at 40 yards, then I have a solid, unsegmented point blank range. My mutant .22 is just perfect at 25 yards tho, and my 909s at 50.
 
What is your average shot distance?

Do you use hold over/hold under?, or will you adjust the scope for every different distance (click to zero?)

Are you shooting field target? Hunting? Shooting paper?

It really depends on what you expect. Everybody has individual tastes for setting up their kit.

FWIW, I set my zero where I only have hold over. I zero at the Peak trajectory. My point blank zero distance is 20-35 yards. Within that distance I hold crosshair on target. Outside that range, I click to the yardage chart on the gun.l, then hold crosshair on target.
 
At the house where I was living when I got my P-rod I could shoot 27 yards indoors so I zeroed at that.

I noticed I was still fairly accurate when shooting closer with my boys and up to maybe ten yards further than zero.

Long story short, when I got my first chronograph and started using the Chairgun software I realized that 27 yards was right on my calculated Optimal Zero for that airgun and pellet combination. This was not done on purpose but rather just a lucky coincidence.

Since then I have tried to use Optimal Zero at least as a starting point with other airgun, scope and pellet combinations.

As I understand it Optimal Zero is an attempt to maximize the range at which you pellet stays within a desired kill zone - 1/2" in my case.

In my P-rod's case about 1/4" low at 10 and 30 yards. Dead on at 27 yards. 1/4" high at 20 yards.

Now if I had zeroed at 20 yards, or about where I shot with my boys, then that range would have shrunk down to 12 yards to 27 yards, or something like that.


 
I normally do 50 yards. If you input 1/2 inch target size into Strelok MRD, it’ll give you a good zero yardage. Most of my guns it comes out to about 50 yards. As you can see below, I’m within 1/2 inch from 13 to about 57 yards with a near zero of 21 yards.

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Hello It all depends on what you are doing with that airgun. I use an airgun trajectory calculator and try to zero them for the flattest trajectory within the distances I will be shooting that particular gun. Some guns are set at 18 yds some at 45 yds but with that trajectory calculator you can really set the gun for exactly what you are looking to do. Hope that helps Eric.
 
I do alot of hunting. And i dont do hold overs mainly adjusting turrets

In that case it would seem that zero distance is relatively unimportant since you would be clicking to your target distance for each shot. I don't click to distance with any regularity and, as noted above, I zero so that my maximum rise above line of sight stays at an acceptable amount for the desired target and for each gun.
 
For my squirrel gun I have two zeroes. 25 yards when the leaves are on the trees and vegetation is thick, and I re-zero to 40 yards after the leaves have dropped and the underbrush is down. For my home pesting rifle the zero is at 48 yards, because that is the distance 90% of the shots are taken at.

Not scientific, but it works for me.


 
"Whats a exceptional yardage for zeroing?"

There is no one exceptional zero for all purposes; it depends on any given scenario.

For instance, I've found a 38 yard zero exceptional for rifle field target competition; given 2 National Champion and 5 State Champion titles. For pistol field target competition I find a 30 yard zero exceptional, accounting for 4 National Champion and 3 State champ[ion titles. 

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Your results may vary.
 
I am beginning to prefer the method used by a lot of FT shooters, with the POA zero being the top of the trajectory curve, which eliminates ever needing to hold under the target. My .22 Veteran shoots an 18 grain pellet a bit over 900 fps. Using this sight-in method, it shoots essentially flat and on target from roughly 25-35 yards. At some point in there it is shooting just the least bit high, but not enough to require a hold under to hit the target. Anything closer or farther requires some amount of hold over, but never hold under. It works neat with this specific rifle, as the hold overs for 40,45, and 50 yards, are 1,2, and 3 minutes, respectively. I guess it depends on the shooter's most comfortable sight picture, and the easiest to remember hold adjustments. 
 
I like the Chairgun approach. I put in the numbers for the tune I am shooting for first, ie weight, BC, scope height, angle and average velocity. The general velocity has already been determined by playing with the gun and the power I want verses the projectile weight I want to use. This tells me what to expect for the zero distance I want. If I don't like the Chairgun results I see, I can adjust the velocity, or the point blank range to get closer to what I am looking for. For example, say my 50 yard holdover for a 25 yard zero indicates on Chairgun to be a 1.3 mil holdover. I don't want to have to remember 1.3 mils but would like a 1.0 mill at 50 yards. I can adjust my velocity to equal exactly 1.0 mill using Chairgun. I also look at other popular distances and there holdovers. So, Chairgun helps me to get where I want to be with a certain tune with a given average weight. I do sort down to typically .1 to .2 grain to not be off very much in weights. My gun is also tuned to give the most consistency/lowest ES so the velocities are very close as well. In the end I check the results to see if Chairgun nailed it or not. If it doesn't, I start to question the BC I inputted into Chairgun. Just the approach I use to determine the best zeroing for how I shoot and tune my guns. It takes a little time, but I want to be as precise as I know how to be. Accuracy is fine, but why not go for precision while you are at it.