What's you're scope Zero'ed at and why?

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Ginuwine1969

Ginuwine1969

Member
Jun 28, 2015
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California, United States
I've been playing with my s510 and Kalibru Cricket all day looking for an ideal Zero I see a lot of people where zeroing there scope at 50 yards. They both were set up at 23/38 yard zero near and far because Chair Gun gave my a those numbers for the optium kill zone for my power and pellet setting, but from the bedroom I often shoot GS, Pigeons, Crows, and starlings between 25 -112 yards. So I've just worked out hold over and turret adjustments (MOA). I know it is mostly subjective So if you would humor me tell me your: Scope zero, rifle FPE at the muzzle, and why you picked that zero. Thanks Airgun family.
 
90% of my target and varmint shooting is between 20 and 50 yards. Most of my 22's and the 25 cal can be zero'd at 20-22 yards and zero again at 45-50 yards. In between, with about 2" of scope height, shoots about 1/2" high. Therefore, with a 20 yard zero, I can use the cross hairs from 15 yards out to about 55 and be within 1/2" of my intended POI.

about 35 fpe for the 22's and 47 fpe for the 25.
 
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I zeroed my .25 at 50yards, which gives me a near zero at 12.5yards and POI within an inch of cross hairs from 5yards to 50yards. This my zero for Benjamin 27.8gr at 820 fps and 40fpe at muzzle. I only have 5 dots worth of holdover on my scope and that gets me to 100yards. I'm using this zero to hit ground squirrels and birds around my house and one of my neighbors yards. 100yards is also the distance from my porch to the fence and about where the overgrowth on the neighbor's property is.
 
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Ginuwine
I've been shooting shooting Field Target hunter division with my .177 Air Arms S500 for almost a year now. She's about 18.5 FPE at the muzzle with the 10.34 gr JSB's
I have a 4-16x44 MTC Mamba Lite scope set at 12 power which is the maximum power for that class.
I shoot zero for 27 yds which roughly gives me a flat enough trajectory to call it flat from 20 to 34 yds. Not much over a pellets width of difference between those yardages.
Now we shoot metal knockdown targets between 10 and 55 yds. With killzones ranging between 3/8 inch to 1.5 inches.
I concentrate more on getting my range finding set up between the 10 to 20 yd range. At 10 and 11 yds I have a 1.5 mildot holdover.
at 12 and 13 yds its 1 mildot. At 14 yds .75 mildot, at 15 yds .5 mildot, at 17 yds .25 mildot, at 20 yds close enough to call it flat on out to 34 yds.
I spend more time in this area because the majority of the targets will be inside 35 yds and I want to concentrate on not missing them if I can help it?
As long as I can hit that 3/8 inch killzone out to 25 yds I'm happy. The hardest part is setting your scope wheel up with the proper hold overs marked on it.
40 yds is about a 1/2 mildot and 45 yds about one mildot , but usually when you get out to those distances you are dealing with a bigger killzone. I've found that sometimes the kill zone is big enough at the farther distances I can put the cross hairs near the top of the kill zone and the half mildot will be near the enter of the kill zone and it gives you a little more leeway in making the shot. It's harder to range find with 12 power once you get past 30 yds.
At 50 and 55 yds it's close enough to cal it 1.5 mildot hold over between those two ranges.
So 10 yds is 1.5 midot, and 55 yds is 1.5 mildot with the 27 yds being about center way between the 2 extremes. And the 27 yard mark is closer to the apex of the arc of the pellet with my set up.
Hope I haven't totally confused you! LOL I understand it and it works for me so far!

Now my Cricket ,FX, and Dragon, I just zero them at 30 yds and the hold overs are way different but not as critical since I'm not shooting Field target with them.

 
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Ginuwine - I'm with Matt. I zero my scopes at apogee or the top of the pellets flight because I don't what to think about hold under. The Bobcat .25 is zero'd at 33 yards with a 1 in diameter kill zone and Point Blank Range (PBR) from 18 to 44 yards. I understand that I am only using half of the kill zone in elevation and knowing that I might favor a bit more hold over at the further distances.

HW100 .22, zero'd at 26 yards kill zone - 1 in, PBR 11.6 to 38 yards.

HW97 .177, zero'd 22 yards, kill zone 1 in, PBR 10 to 32 yards. This rifle has the scope shimmed so the optical center will be when the elevation scope knob is adjusted to 54 yards. This allows for more accurate adjustment at the longer distances.
 
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What Jimmy said. I shoot FT with the same rifle, different scope but have my zero at 30 yds. I still get a cross hairs hold from 20-37, my holdover at 10 is a bit higher but about the same at 55. Even when shooting a heavy .177 pellet in winds over 5mph hold off becomes a concern past 30, and more so past 45 even if the target has a full size kill zone.
 
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I shoot 16x Cricket .22/18.1 JSB/ 30 FPE Zero is 17/50 now but thinking about changing it back to 25/38 for a flatter trajectory. The AA s510 is shooting 16x/.22/15.89 JSB/29 FPE Zero is 16/50 now but same thought of going to a 22/35 for the flattery trajectory. The back yard range is from 10-25 yards, then the open ravin behind the house is over 200 yards but my limit due to house further away is 70-120 yards either direction and 80 yards straight across. Can't shoot anything between 35 - 70 yards due to possible ricochet. So I guess the 50 yard zero doesn't really work for me, but the closer zero I run out of holdover after 80 yards with 16x and get about 100 yards at 10x and things are looking pretty small at 10x and 100 yards.
 
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I might just be lucky but I've kept it pretty simple. I don't have any dots on my scope. It is a simple reticle. I don't do a lot of hunting outside of my back yard pests and that ranges from 5 yards to 28 yards, my back fence. I think I am zeroed at 25. A 25 cal is forgiving. If I am shooting my average distance of 11 yards on 5 power I know that if I put my crosshairs right on the top line of an animals head (or golf ball) that thing is gone. If I am shooting to the 18 yards or longer I know that the pellet will go right where I aim. The only tricky shots are the ones right in front of me because I need to float the cross hairs slightly over target. I got my scope in a combo from Pyramid Air with my Marauder and wish I would have went with a mill dot system right off the bat. Now it is dialed in and I just can't get myself to splurge on a new scope. When I am in the woods I am shooting rimfire or shotgun and the air rifle is strictly a back yard tool for me and for anything within 25 yards the range of drop is so minimal that it is easily ingrained with a little practice.
 
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Kill Zone: I’m not understanding the whole apogee zero (one zero). My mind is saying there 33 yard is the peek of the arch but i could draw a line thru the pellet flight and call 18/44 your near and far zero would that be correct?


No - The flight of the pellet has to angle up to meet the line of sight of the scope and gravity is constantly pulling it down. At 33 yards is where the pellet meet the scopes line of sight - Its the highest elevation of the pellets flight it starts dropping at that point. I think your confusion is understanding the kill zone and PBR (Point Blank Range). You can't have point blank range without a kill zone. The 18 yard range is where the pellet enters into the kill zone and exits it at 44 yards.

There was an excellent web sight link in a thread a month or so ago about this - perhaps someone here remembers it.

 
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I do not hunt with my air rifles, but like to plink targets up to 100yrds.
I have different adjustments when it comes to zeroing, according to velocity and pellet weight.
But I see from the replies on this post that I perhaps use some longer distances for my zeroing.....
My base for zeroing is usually the scope height. I like the pellet flight to be within that top/bottom trajectory.
ChairGun pro tells me what distance this will be, and save me a lot of failing.

Example:
Velocity: .890 ft/s
Scope heigh: 2,5 inch
Pellet: .22 Jsb exact Heavy 18 gn
To be within the scope height top/bottom trajectory the ChairGun tells me that my shooting distance (+/- 2,5 inch from the sight line) will be 75 yrds, with far zero at 65 yrds.
And the bit of holdover/under according to this .......well, that is where the gut feeling (= practicing) comes in.

 
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"Ginuwine1969"The back yard range is from 10-25 yards, then the open ravin behind the house is over 200 yards but my limit due to house further away is 70-120 yards either direction and 80 yards straight across.


Click to expand...
So you basically need a setup that works for 10-25 yards (your back yard) AND works for 70-120 yards (open ravine). That is very hard to do without seriously compromising one or both setups.

For the 10-25 yards I would choose Chairguns optimum zero so you can hold dead on and not miss the kill zone for the full range. Well maybe a little bit of hold required for 10 and 11 yards. 

For the 70-120 yards I would go with a fairly far zero so that you can reach 120 yards without running out of mildots or clicks. 
 
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