What's you're scope Zero'ed at and why?

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I zero @ 50yards for a few reasons... One is, that range is the most common range that I can get close to a pest where they can see me and not feel too threaten. it also allows for quick hold over adjustments, 60y .5mil 70y 1mil and so on. I like the fact that I can reach out and touch them without having to get too close. Gives me a higher recovery count.
 
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Thank you gentleman for all of your input, its alot to think about: I shoot in the back yard the most, but I want to alway be ready to pest out to 100 yards if the opportunity presents itself. I do run out of mil-dots at 16x for those long shots with my zero at 25yards on the Cricket, and with shot placement being the key: aim small miss small is my motto. My MTC viper scope holds zero really well but doesn't return to zero well if i mess with the turret adjustment knobs so i've gotten really good at hold over out to 80 yards with it. So I think i will set up my s510 for the long range stuff with a 75 yard zero and adjust the turret for a 25 yard zero for back yard stuff when i want to shoot with that, it has a UTG 4x16 scope the turrents return to zero everytime but i like the scb retcile on the mtc better. i actually jut like shooting the Cricket the best anyway, rightnow.
 
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I agree with AZ about referencing inch instead of mildot. For one, unless you are talking ffp scopes, mildot change with scope magnification. Also, mildot reticles are surely not the exact same spacing from brand to brand as there are a large variety to choose from. 1 inch will always be 1 inch. Though I agree that many struggle to learn how to judge yardage or inches in this matter, it is a wonderful skill to learn and very valuable. This coming from a young man and not an old timer. I have spent the majority of my shooting using a simple duplex reticle so estimating size was a must. I have switched to almost all mildot or similar reticles, but still reference inches instead of mildots.
 
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"HTech"I have set my scope to zero at 20-22 yards, is this about right ?
I am able to hit 19/20 on a 2p size circle so am happy with that.

that is lying down though, using a lean to settle my arm, if I stand up I'm no where near as clear with the shot.
The right point to zero your scope depends on multiple things. What ranges do you shoot at, what pellets are you using? Which reticle do you have And how many variations in distance do you require. I shoot long distances so my scope is zeroed at 70 yards. Using my scope reticle I get aim points from 30 all the way to 173 yards. 
 
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@kris, I feel like a kid again, sitting in my uni class listening to the lecturer and not understanding :)

I have to say, I am loving it though, I've never shot before other than a few here and there. I have been looking at things to increase the collection of bits and bobs to get and make it more enjoyable.
I have a lot of ground in the gardens so plenty to shoot at but this is such a different world from what I'm used too but loving it right now :)
 
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Sounds like jking and I had a very similar set-up. Before I sold my Regal XL(30FPE) it was zeroed at 60 yards because that's where the fence row is in my back yard. I rarely shot past the fence row but, I had some "tree of doom" at 30 yards which is 1.5mil hold-under with the Hawke Sidewinder 20x 1/2 mil reticle. I rarely shot outside of my back yard so I was able to pick up my hold points for nearly every where in my yard pretty quick. Any critter within that 60 yard span from the back door to the fence was in dangerous territory.
 
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Ginuwine, The zero factor is really subjective according to what you intend to do with the rifle. I shoot Field Target competitions with Jimmy above, and for Field Target, as he explained you need to be accurate from 10 yds to 55 yds max. To be simple you need to be able to adjust the parallax to be able to judge the distance of each target. so pellet choice and power within the required limits are what we work on to be accurate. My Daystate MK4 in .177 is shooting JSB 8.4 grain pellets at 18.5 FPE. I zeroed at 25 meters (27 yds) and I have a flat or zero holdover range that is from 17yds out to 40yds with that pellet. Your question appears to be related more to hunting then target shooting which is why I say that it is subject to the intended use of the gun.

Another instance is I shoot an FX Royal 400 in .22 for benchrest zeroed at 25 meters as that is the required target distance for competition.
It is 32 FPE shooting 18.14 grain JSBS with an avg velocity of 905 fps. 

In shooting at the 50 meter course I would just re-zero to 50 meters. this rifle has a parallax adjustment on the side but since shooting only one distance, I don't have the yardages marked on it. The Daystate can be used for hunting as it can be focused to distances marked on the wheel. I go lengthy here but I think I can offer some options. After you zero your rifle in at your set distance, Take a target and place it within 20 yds focus and shoot at a stick-on dot or the like. After you shoot, look where the pellet hit through the scope while keeping the cross hair on the dot. if it hit low look at the mil dot where it hit, Then write down that holdover for that known range. Then move the target out 3 yds and do it again, mark that yardage and holdover. Do that out as far as you are comfortable making a kill. This is assuming you have a scope with side parallax or AO adjustment. You can get your "flat" zone (Distances near and far, where you don't have any holdover) Then you can carry a range card or put the distances and yardage on the side wheel. It is important that you mark your side wheel or AO with the yardage that you shoot the holdover as whn hunting when you get the game in focus you can look at the markings and know the holdover for the most accurate shot, Sounds complicate but it is easy once you do it.

here is an example
Uploaded at Snapagogo.com
 
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