Which lube do you use for your pellets.
- Thread starter DrippinLead
- Start date
Oil base products like wd40 etc will break down rubber that's why silicone is used on o rings. I have used Napier as its stated use is pellet lube although i have no idea what its made from.
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I'm trying 3-In-One Lock Dry Lube, then 3-In_One Window Track Dry Lube on a few different types of pellets and will report results.
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For 9 years I have shot slugs and kept it simple.
I size, lube and shoot with 30wt silicone, bigger slugs, 357 and 45’s that need better lube to resize, I use Imperial sizing wax and do not remove it, bullets are carried in a ziplock in a silicone oil bath.
I have most of the stuff mentioned here, but this works for me.
Regards,
Roachcreek
I size, lube and shoot with 30wt silicone, bigger slugs, 357 and 45’s that need better lube to resize, I use Imperial sizing wax and do not remove it, bullets are carried in a ziplock in a silicone oil bath.
I have most of the stuff mentioned here, but this works for me.
Regards,
Roachcreek
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WD40 is a penetrating oil, light weight lubricant, etc. that also displaces water. If one were to look it was actually developed as a lubricant to be used in orbiting vehicles and machines for the space program.
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SqrlHntr
Member
I went to dry lube, hexagonal boron nitride powder as a barrel treatment and ammo coating. Some propellerhead at Los Alamos National Lab was hell bent on using this stuff on barrels to mimic a ceramic barrel without the fragility. They proved it does actually embed itself into the steel and saw no reduction in the coating after thousands of rounds of powder burning. The .5 micron nanocrystals fracture during a firelap and get embedded into the steel at the molecular level until the microscopic gaps are basically leveled, essentially coating the inside with a graphene like structure. But it does not build up like moly and create premature uneven wear or need re-applications like tungsten disufide.
Rarely I need to clean a barrel now and only a dry patch then is needed, even with Crosmans and H&N’s. Avg fps went up some too. Not gonna declare accuracy improvement, im not that bold or good a shot, but it hasn’t gotten any worse over time even without running a dry patch. I use the .5 micron stuff, the 2.5 micron did not work well, acted like graphite and ended up blowing itself out. I tried many other media types, oils, solvents, etc and killed barrels in the process, finding 99.9% alcohol and a swab-it is best, 1 tsp h-Bn per 4 oz alcohol, 1 or two passes after a barrel clean and polish, then firelap with 10-20 or so coated pellets/slugs after it dries. More is not really better on the barrel, but too little and it does not coat properly, the pellet will lead up the uncoated parts and then you fight the removal to start over. Too much has no ill effect but may take a few more shots to fireplap. If you have a dark background to shoot against you can see the subtle dust puff reduce to nothing with each progressive shot. Once gone, its lapped and any extra that has not bonded to the steel is gone too. I’ll re-lap with couple of coated pellets after a dry patch just because, but thats not needed much.
2 oz MICROLUBROL Hexagonal Boron Nitride hBN Powder Ultra FINE 0.5 µ Micron https://a.co/d/18P8fSU
Rarely I need to clean a barrel now and only a dry patch then is needed, even with Crosmans and H&N’s. Avg fps went up some too. Not gonna declare accuracy improvement, im not that bold or good a shot, but it hasn’t gotten any worse over time even without running a dry patch. I use the .5 micron stuff, the 2.5 micron did not work well, acted like graphite and ended up blowing itself out. I tried many other media types, oils, solvents, etc and killed barrels in the process, finding 99.9% alcohol and a swab-it is best, 1 tsp h-Bn per 4 oz alcohol, 1 or two passes after a barrel clean and polish, then firelap with 10-20 or so coated pellets/slugs after it dries. More is not really better on the barrel, but too little and it does not coat properly, the pellet will lead up the uncoated parts and then you fight the removal to start over. Too much has no ill effect but may take a few more shots to fireplap. If you have a dark background to shoot against you can see the subtle dust puff reduce to nothing with each progressive shot. Once gone, its lapped and any extra that has not bonded to the steel is gone too. I’ll re-lap with couple of coated pellets after a dry patch just because, but thats not needed much.
2 oz MICROLUBROL Hexagonal Boron Nitride hBN Powder Ultra FINE 0.5 µ Micron https://a.co/d/18P8fSU
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JSB pellets are not lubed from the factory. What you are seeing and smelling is the release agent that is used on the dies, because the dies are split, and the finished lead pellet needs to fall from the die, after swaging. It is not a lube, perce, but many shooters use them out of the tin with no ill effects. I choose to get that stuff off, and re lube them myself.
Tom Holland
Field Target Tech
Fieldtargettech.com
Tom Holland
Field Target Tech
Fieldtargettech.com
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I use a tumbler to clean my CPHP with some Dawn, rinsed and tumble again. Lay them out on a towel flat to dry, weigh out about 117g worth of pellets then put them in the top part of the tin, use a toothpick to lay each pellet on its side, then a light spray of WD40 Drylube.
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I have never seen that particular offering from them, and I just did a restock on my shop supplies so should have if the stores in my local had it. I see is has Teflon in it. Is there another dry lube in it as well? I've just been using the lanolin I use when I swage my slugs, it works just fine but holy cow does it like dust and dirt.
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Ballistol, lubes the projectiles and you don’t have to worry about wether or not it’s ok to use.
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