Which wood stock protector do you use?

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MOhunter

MOhunter

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Jan 5, 2021
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Kennet, MO, United States
Hey folks. I've got a Huben K1 (.25) with a wood stock. This is going to by my primary woods-walking hunting rifle. I'm anticipating more dings and scratches since it's going to be a weekly carrier. I chose wood for various personal reasons, but know it's gonna get scratched. Looking for opinions. Since it's wood stock, what does everyone else use to protect their wood stocks and why? 'Wood' love to see pics also, lol. Thanks.
 
Dings and scratches will be just that, regardless of finish or "protector". You can rub in various things to make scratches less visible, but it depends on the type of finish that is on the wood now. Tru-Oil works well on many finishes, but there are many products out there. The only way to really fix scratches is to sand them out and refinish. Some filling and sealing might be required with deeper scratches. If it is a working woods rifle, just use it and plan on refinishing every few years. If it is a nice stock that you want to maintain attractive, it might cost less in the long run to buy an extra synthetic stock for rough use. I don't hunt much anymore, but I quit using wood stocks on hunting guns a long time ago, and it made life much easier.
 
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You could always get some of that camo, wrap around "tape" like what's used for sprains in a medical setting. No adhesive on it but it sticks to itself. Just a thought.

FRESINIDER 9 Rolls Self Adhesive Wrap Athletic Tape Gauze, Breathable Elastic Cohesive Bandage for Sports Injury & Pet (7 Pcs 2"x 5 Yards + 2 Pcs 1" X 5 Yards) (German Woodland Camo) https://a.co/d/0oD5neE
 
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elh0102 said:
Dings and scratches will be just that, regardless of finish or "protector". You can rub in various things to make scratches less visible, but it depends on the type of finish that is on the wood now. Tru-Oil works well on many finishes, but there are many products out there. The only way to really fix scratches is to sand them out and refinish. Some filling and sealing might be required with deeper scratches. If it is a working woods rifle, just use it and plan on refinishing every few years. If it is a nice stock that you want to maintain attractive, it might cost less in the long run to buy an extra synthetic stock for rough use. I don't hunt much anymore, but I quit using wood stocks on hunting guns a long time ago, and it made life much easier.
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Yeah, ELH0101, I agree totally on your aspects of why you went with synthetic. My choices were it was actually less weight and when hunting in cold weather, wood stocks are not as cold to handle as synthetic stocks. I'm probably gonna go with keeping it until it's so bad I eventually replace it anyway.
 
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Gerry52 said:
You could always get some of that camo, wrap around "tape" like what's used for sprains in a medical setting. No adhesive on it but it sticks to itself. Just a thought.

FRESINIDER 9 Rolls Self Adhesive Wrap Athletic Tape Gauze, Breathable Elastic Cohesive Bandage for Sports Injury & Pet (7 Pcs 2"x 5 Yards + 2 Pcs 1" X 5 Yards) (German Woodland Camo) https://a.co/d/0oD5neE
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That's not a bad suggestion, thanks. I think I'll consider that.
 
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RM100GUY said:
Rub linseed oil on your stock dings dents and all and call it a patina. Embrace the horror...your gunna' use it for what you bought it for. Buy a "show pony" dedicated to target shooting only....I have about a dozen dedicated to the latter myself....lol!
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Agreed. I've got some Birchwood Casey gun stock oil on the way. And some linseed oil in the garage. I'll test a few spots and see what I think. Thanks.
 
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Many factory gunstocks come finished in polyurethane. It is the most durable wood finish but it is also the hardest to repair. I used poly on two of the stocks I made for my P35s. I used Osmo on the third. It is kind of an oil finish but is described by the manufacturer as a "hard wax" finish. It is easy to repair but easy to scratch. Linseed oil is an oil finish but not a great one. It doesn't protect from water very well but is very easy to repair. Many use Tru-oil, a birchwood casey product, that I think it is a poly/oil mixture. It is not as durable as poly but more durable than oil and dings can be fixed like an oil finish.

The two attributes that are traded off are durability versus easy to "fix". Poly/oil mixtures may be the best balanced alternative.

I've hunted with wood stocked powder burners for years and they didn't get badly damaged. I don't think a lot of damage is inevitable, you just have to be careful. If something bad happens the finish can be repaired, regardless of what type it is, is it just more difficult with poly. It really needs sanded to bare wood and then refinished. Spot repairs will show.
 
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MOhunter said:
That's not a bad suggestion, thanks. I think I'll consider that.
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I figured a couple wraparounds on any part you'd want to protect when going out in the field would help to ward off unintended bumps & bangs with at least some protection & cushioning. A minute to put on, a minute to remove when done.
 
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I use beeswax furniture spray, same thing I use to lube my pellets. Beeswax is excellent for wood, easy on, protects from moisture, makes finger prints dissapear, oils and salts from your skin/hands won't discolor the stock. I also remove the action and spray a heavy coat to the cutout area so moisture does cause any stock swelling from rain or moisture. We also use it on our Amish made furniture, no water spots or discolor from sweating glasses !! Also good for SS and blued steel to keep fingers prints from rusting or corroding the metal. Probably the best thing I have ever used on my airguns and firearms. Been using it for over 30 years...
 
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Gerry52 said:
I figured a couple wraparounds on any part you'd want to protect when going out in the field would help to ward off unintended bumps & bangs with at least some protection & cushioning. A minute to put on, a minute to remove when done.
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I'd be very interested to see some photos of a stock stocks wrapped up in this way.
If any of you have some, please post them.
Thanks
Edward
 
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Gerry52 said:
You could always get some of that camo, wrap around "tape" like what's used for sprains in a medical setting. No adhesive on it but it sticks to itself. Just a thought.

FRESINIDER 9 Rolls Self Adhesive Wrap Athletic Tape Gauze, Breathable Elastic Cohesive Bandage for Sports Injury & Pet (7 Pcs 2"x 5 Yards + 2 Pcs 1" X 5 Yards) (German Woodland Camo) https://a.co/d/0oD5neE
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This is the best wrap I’ve used.

GEAR AID Camo Form Self-Cling and Reusable Camouflage Wrap, 2” x 144” Roll https://a.co/d/bwLPxvp

IMG_4128.jpeg
 
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AirShot said:
I use beeswax furniture spray, same thing I use to lube my pellets. Beeswax is excellent for wood, easy on, protects from moisture, makes finger prints dissapear, oils and salts from your skin/hands won't discolor the stock. I also remove the action and spray a heavy coat to the cutout area so moisture does cause any stock swelling from rain or moisture. We also use it on our Amish made furniture, no water spots or discolor from sweating glasses !! Also good for SS and blued steel to keep fingers prints from rusting or corroding the metal. Probably the best thing I have ever used on my airguns and firearms. Been using it for over 30 years...
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No kidding?? I think that's one of the first things I'll try. 30 years is good knowledge. Thanks.
 
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JimD said:
Many factory gunstocks come finished in polyurethane. It is the most durable wood finish but it is also the hardest to repair. I used poly on two of the stocks I made for my P35s. I used Osmo on the third. It is kind of an oil finish but is described by the manufacturer as a "hard wax" finish. It is easy to repair but easy to scratch. Linseed oil is an oil finish but not a great one. It doesn't protect from water very well but is very easy to repair. Many use Tru-oil, a birchwood casey product, that I think it is a poly/oil mixture. It is not as durable as poly but more durable than oil and dings can be fixed like an oil finish.

The two attributes that are traded off are durability versus easy to "fix". Poly/oil mixtures may be the best balanced alternative.

I've hunted with wood stocked powder burners for years and they didn't get badly damaged. I don't think a lot of damage is inevitable, you just have to be careful. If something bad happens the finish can be repaired, regardless of what type it is, is it just more difficult with poly. It really needs sanded to bare wood and then refinished. Spot repairs will show.
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Yeah, I concur. I don't anticipate my rifle ever being badly damaged either unless I fall down a cliff or something. I just needa little extra layer to prevent the majority of minor stuff. Or at least minimize it. I was also considering Linseed oil, but have a few antique yard tool handles we tried this with. didn't last long. Thanks for the info
 
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I think the nitrocellulose reference is to lacquer. Nitrocellulose is a very quick drying finish that is hard and durable like varnish or polyurethane. It is probably more durable than varnish but less than polyurethane. It dries so fast you could easily put on 4 or 5 coats in a day. You can buy it in spray cans but it is then very thin. A desirable attribute of lacquer is subsequent coats eat into the previous layer. If you got a stock completely clean, you could spray on another coat.

You could view it as desirable or not but lacquer is also crystal clear. Many like the slight amber tint you get from most oil finishes, solvent based polyurethane, and varnish. Water borne poly is also clear. I prefer the darker appearance of the solvent or oil finishes.
 
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