Tuning Wildcat MK1 PP

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wyshadow

wyshadow

Member
May 11, 2015
1,720
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Las Cruces, New Mexico, United States
This gun has taken me months to get everything together and I'm finally shooting the gun over the chronograph. This is my first set of numbers starting reg set at 120 bar and I noticed something not right if I compare the wildcat to the streamline I finished. Both guns are .25 caliber so it's a good comparison. The wildcat's PP is twice the size as the streamline and noticed a difference right away.

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As you can see both chrono numbers are with the reg set at exactly 120 bar but it seems to me the streamline is getting better numbers. Towards the start of the number of turns on the HS, the wildcat PP numbers are higher but as the HS bottoms out, the streamline has higher numbers. The streamline plateaus at 830 but the highest the wildcat achieves is only 785. I was going to set the wildcat's reg at 125 and test again but loosening up all the screws again, pulling the air tube off, and then having to align everything back up is something I don't feel like doing tonight. Tuning the streamline is so much easier. It's sad that FX did away with the streamline.

Here are two pictures comparing the two:

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Here is an extension I had someone make so I could fit a DonnyFL. This part took months to get

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That potentail cause is eliminated then ! Next poster brings up a good point too . (Allignment port)

could also,be that, in comparison , the wildcat needs a little more weight to the hammer in order to open the valve enought to,let all of that huge amount of plenum contained air out. Maybe try switching plenums if that is possible and see what happens ....? ( or take pp out from both and see the results ) 


 
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I ran into a problem while I was checking the barrel alignment on the wildcat. I loosen the four screws on the trigger group and everything is now misaligned. When I got this gun used, the holes on the stock were never exact and was slightly off but the gun still had an excellent trigger and cycled smoothly. Since I took off the the barrel and the trigger group moved slightly, I couldn't get the gun to release the hammer. The trigger shoe is now to far back and doesn't move in the cocked or uncocked position. The stock is now way off and one screw will not screw in if the other is screwed in. I loosen everything up and aligned the screw holes perfectly on the stock, and now the gun will not cock. The next thing I did was try to adjust the feeding pin and it was a little off but I was able to set it exactly 28.65 mm from the end of the breach block. But now the the trigger shoe is too far back to release the hammer. When I take off the trigger linkage and pull the lever to release the hammer, the gun fires perfectly. When looking at the trigger linkage, it looks like it just needs to be shortened but the ends are locked tighten in so I don't think that's the problem. I'm at a lost on this one and I've watch every video on youtube about adjusting the wildcat.

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The only way I could get the gun to fire is if I push the trigger group far forward's until it touches the shroud.

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Front stock screw

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Back stock screw

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This is the position while the trigger group is pushed forward touching the shroud but the trigger shoe doesn't move

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Did you solve you realignment problems with assembling your Wildcat?

The first step is to clamp the tube at the correct spacing so the stock screws line up perfectly. The position of the cocking linkage and the trigger will follow from that. If the rifle was previously setup incorrectly, the trigger linkage length may need adjusting. Mine was not perfect from the factory, so I needed to adjust the trigger linkage length after I moved the tube clamp position slightly.
 
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FX wildcat is one of the most tricky airguns to line up.. you can spend time taking pre measurements but the stock doesn't always line up and the trigger can be off easily.

So what I do is.. put the clamps on and have the tube screwed in, don't tighten everything down, leave the screw loose so the action moves.... place the wildcat into the stock , everything should align into place as it was intended to in regards to the barrel bottle and the clamps.. make sure screw all line up to the stock (they should be exact) .. then gently take it out of the stock and tighten the screws for the clamps to the barrel and bottle tube down.. lastly adjust your trigger so it engages properly, and most importantly make sure that the pellet probe is seated properly (I use a pencil and mark how deep it is) and then measure that to verify.. if the pellet probe is off the mark, you can get a puff of air to the face, and will have to set it deeper.. obviously the barrel transfer port needs to be lined up as well..
 
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I never could get the screws to line up in the stock and the rear screw is still a little off but the front screw is tighten all the way in. The front screw is more important because its holding the stock onto the gun really good. It seems to me that linkage needs to be 3 mm shorter and everything will fit perfectly. I'm going to order a MK2 wildcat linkage and see if this linkage will work.
 
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I never could get the screws to line up in the stock and the rear screw is still a little off but the front screw is tighten all the way in. The front screw is more important because its holding the stock onto the gun really good. It seems to me that linkage needs to be 3 mm shorter and everything will fit perfectly. I'm going to order a MK2 wildcat linkage and see if this linkage will work.
Click to expand...


I don't think ordering a mk2 linkage will help. I have a mk3 so I cant say for sure about a mk1 but you can adjust the length of the trigger linkage to suit and your cocking linkage is clamped in to correct place (as mentioned by Hekk187) by the grub screws.

This video by may help
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ya4A0HBodSo
 
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Reviving this thread.

I have a Wildcat Mk1 .25 that I want to establish baseline before adding a power plenum. It has revealed a puzzling characteristic that I have not yet been able to sort out. I'm hoping some one can point me to a few thing to check. The gun is box stock and at factory settings until I started chronographer tests recently. 

Basically, independent of hammer spring settings, most shot strings have two groups of velocities about 40 fps apart. Not a scattered range but two distinct and well grouped sets. The report is noticeably different for the two groups so I'm suspect a hammer and/or valve issue. I have a second nearly identical WC that shoots very tight 925fps groups for 4 magazines on a full charge.

I'm a reasonably competent air gun tinkerer and have tuned many airguns previously. I try to avoid taking apart a well set up gun where not needed and other than this issue, this guns operation is one of my favorites. I watched several of the Earnest Rowe videos for reference but haven't found anything discussed that would explain the two mode operation. I have removed the hammer spring and guide and assured the hammer moved smooth and freely.

Valve issues? Regulator issues? Any clues?

Some recent strings at different hammer spring settings as an example

2020-11-24 crony.1606251971.png



 
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