Tuning Wildcat MK3 power adjuster wheel

[Quad82]

Not sure if others have had this problem or not. The wheel on my MK3 turns rather easy. I have noticed a couple times now the the wheel gets turned down to 6 or even over to adjust while hunting. The 3mm ball does not lock in the detent notches securely enough. I think it happens when I pull the rifle out of its gun case. Or maybe it gets snagged under my arm pit or on my coat when I unsling the rifle from my shoulder. I try to pay attention before taking a shot. But I forget when a squirrel or other target presents a shot. I am thinking of maybe making a 3-D ring with a stop on either side that rest at 4:00 and 8:00 on the stock so it won’t turn by itself. Kind of like an extended scope ring that lets you adjust the magnification easier than twisting the scope. I do not change levels except to tune, so it wouldn’t be a problem with it being locked down. There isn’t room between the wheel and the stock unless I carve a bit of stock from under the wheel. Any one have ideas?

 

[Odoyle]

Start at 1:50

https://youtu.be/J-xWCqGO88M

 

[Quad82]

Thanks for the reply. I have watched it several times when I first got the WC. It only shows the tuning. Nothing at all about keeping the wheel tight. With the other model Wildcats you could add a second nut on the adjuster to lock it down. I am looking for a way to do this to the wheel on the MK3. 

 

[Odoyle]

Start from 2:10

https://youtu.be/U06XfJyo9uQ

 

[B]

Check out this topic https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/power-wheel-blocking/ , looks like some of the FX guns have to long screw installed.

B

 

[Quad82]

That is exactly what mine is doing. But it stays put while shooting. Just if it gets bumped. I think the thin o ring idea will work. Will give it a try. I did notice the detent cups are a bit washed out. That would let the bearing jump/roll from cup to cup rather easy. I may purchase a new wheel anyways. If I do and am not happy after that, I am going to drill into the bottom of the old wheel and also in to the top back of the stock. Will then add a cold pin. Just have to get my lengths correct. By the way, if anyone ever needs spare 3mm bearings, I bought a bag of 50. They are hard to find even working on the bench. I leave a small magnet next to my gun vice to hold the small stuff.


thanks guys

 

[B]

That is exactly what mine is doing. But it stays put while shooting. Just if it gets bumped. I think the thin o ring idea will work. Will give it a try. I did notice the detent cups are a bit washed out. That would let the bearing jump/roll from cup to cup rather easy. I may purchase a new wheel anyways. If I do and am not happy after that, I am going to drill into the bottom of the old wheel and also in to the top back of the stock. Will then add a cold pin. Just have to get my lengths correct. By the way, if anyone ever needs spare 3mm bearings, I bought a bag of 50. They are hard to find even working on the bench. I leave a small magnet next to my gun vice to hold the small stuff.


thanks guys

You can try O-ring, but looks like problem is a to long screw that is bottoming out before tightening the wheel , get shorter screw or cut it down little bit and see if that fixes the problem

B

 

[Quad82]

Will loose a couple of threads on the screw tonight. I did measure the length of the screw, wheel thickness and threaded hole. I am not bottoming out in the threaded hole. So I can’t see that the screw is too long. But maybe doing so will tighten up the spring and bearing putting more pressure on the detent. Thanks

 

[TMH]

Before cutting anything I would stack a few washers on that screw, or even maybe a washer/o-ring/washer sandwich if you have the correct sized parts available.

 

[Quad82]

Got to looking at it again at lunch. Cutting threads won’t help as the screw has a shoulder that tightens against the block. I had a great idea and it is simple. Pulled the stair-way hub out of the wheel and cut a piece of shim plastic and sandwiched it between the wheel and hub. Drilled a hole in the center for the screw and notched for the HS adjustment screw. By changing shim thickness I can get what ever tension I want on the wheel. No cutting, drilling or mods of any sort to the stock parts. I ended up using a very thin piece of plastic and can draw the wheel down tight so it won’t turn at all. Loosen the center screw and you can rotate the wheel for lower speed to tuning. 

 

[Quad82]

I did clean up the one I use. It ended up giving me about 5fps faster shots as the HS is tighter.