Wish this Forum had this for "Newbs" (the un or newly initiated).......

.175 od , is this a size of a shaft ? I personally do not need this as i only use non metal cleaning items .

It dosent need to actually slip into the barrel. Just the mod. A drinking straw works great on my .177. As long as the end of the patchworm goes inside the straw when it exits the muzzle it won't snag on the baffles.

Get a piece of copper electrical wire. Clamp one end in a vise and the other in a drill. Spin it until it work hardens. It will get straight as an arrow and stiff. It will also get hot so be careful handling it. Bend a loop on one end. If the copper breaks when you bend it just heat it up on the end to anneal it. They make great cleaning rods and are easy to push through the baffles.

They aren't stiff enough to push a tight patch through. But you can pull a patch just fine. I've used hardened copper rods for cleaning for years and they work great.
 
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Newbies should also be told this hobby, can be very rewarding if you put in the work researching. They shouldn’t be afraid to make the mistake or spend the additional $$ if in the end it makes them more wiser and successful at this hobby. They should know up front, that they should quit begging for tune setups. I’ve said it once and I’ll say it again- I have yet to see a newbie come back and reply after someone else gave him tune settings, and say that their gun now shoots lights out exactly the same as the other guys also.
This all goes back to my original comment about doing research and trying things for yourself.

As far as Gerry’s original post, I want to add that newbies should get in the habit of downloading parts diagrams and order o rings for their gun, their hand pump, their foster fittings, and anything else holding back air pressure, long before the toys all arrive
 
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Don't forget POS for those inevitable lemons. ;)
Just last weekend we started the winter harvest ... yea we got a LOT of Lemons :ROFLMAO:(y)

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It dosent need to actually slip into the barrel. Just the mod. A drinking straw works great on my .177. As long as the end of the patchworm goes inside the straw when it exits the muzzle it won't snag on the baffles.

Get a piece of copper electrical wire. Clamp one end in a vise and the other in a drill. Spin it until it work hardens. It will get straight as an arrow and stiff. It will also get hot so be careful handling it. Bend a loop on one end. If the copper breaks when you bend it just heat it up on the end to anneal it. They make great cleaning rods and are easy to push through the baffles.

They aren't stiff enough to push a tight patch through. But you can pull a patch just fine. I've used hardened copper rods for cleaning for years and they work great.
i only ever pull a patch through from the breach , never anything pushed into the muzzle end .
 
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.175 od , is this a size of a shaft ? I personally do not need this as i only use non metal cleaning items .
I can send you a piece of shaft to slide in your mod and then you can feed your pull through string through it. I think I have 4 and 5mm shaft. Just need to know how long. PM me your address.
 
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I don't use a rod of any sort . i only use DYI "patch worm" Dacron fishing line and patches .

Then my suggestion to use a work hardened copper rod to pass through the baffles is not an appropriate solution.

It is however a quick and easy way to make a copper cleaning rod that is safe to use on an airgun barrel and it is a tiny fraction of the cost of a coated rod suitable for .177.

Maybe someone else can benefit from the suggestion.

I too use a plastic line on my rifles that don't have baffles up front. I use cotton twine with 3-4 patches tied in a loop to clean and polish the bore on the rifles that do have baffles.

I use the copper rod to fish the cotton twine through the bore. Then tie the ends of the string to form a loop. I can pull multiple patches on each pass from the breech to the muzzle shortening the time it takes for each pass.

When polishing it cuts the time and effort to pull individual patches and insert a straw with each pass. I'll butter up 3 patches with compound and make 25 passes which is 75 strokes with a patchworm. I never have to find a straw that fits.

Those 4mm carbon arrow shafts are neat. They would make a dandy rod guide for those that do use a rod. The O.D. is about .160 so they would work great to get the plastic line through the baffles as well. You can use them to push a pellet through the bore too.
 
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I've always wished that aside from the Forum rules there was a chart or guide that brand new people with tons of questions could refer to to help with the BASICS we all needed to learn. Something on the order of what I've compiled below. I'm sure you get the idea. It's in no way a complete list obviously but thought I'd post what I started & INVITE YOU ALL TO ADD TO. Keep it simple & basic please. Not trying to list all peripherals that COULD be bought by an airgunner, only the basics that every airgunner NEEDS from day one. Please add stuff that is essential when starting out. I figured, to start off, TOOLS & NOMENCLATURE were the most important. I'm curious to see where this goes :unsure: Have at it guys/gals & have fun.


ESSENTIAL TOOLS:
1) Metric Hex (Allen) Wrenches
2) Caliper
3) Cleaning Kit;
A) Pull-through type (i.e. Patchwork or DIY made with weed whacker line)
B) Caliber specific cleaning rod & assorted tips
C) Non petroleum liquid or spray cleaner (i.e. Ballistol)
D) Cleaning Patches
4) Strap Wrench
5) Non-metal rod (Wood Dowel, rigid plastic/fiberglass for clearing barrel pellet jam)
6) Rubber Mallet
7) Gun Vise/Clamp/Stand (to securely hold gun while working on it)


NOMENCLATURE:
Tank - High Pressure vessel used for filling gun's air reservoir
Bottle/Air Tube - Air reservoir attached & integral to airgun
Gauge - Meter, either analog, digital or other that displays pressure in tank, bottle, air tube, internal regulator of gun or compressor.
Tank Valve - Device with knob on air tank that allows airflow out from tank to gun or airflow in from compressor/hand pump to tank.
Regulator - Device that may be internally mounted inside gun, externally on gun's air reservoir or externally attached to tank which allows only a set & precise amount of air pressure to flow.

I'm winging it here in good faith so correct me where I err so I can edit the mistakes in this post. Some terms were left undefined so that more qualified members can explain them.

Nomenclature continued (nomenclature meaning jargon or terminology):
- Arrow Shooter - a PCP airgun design to shoot air bolts. A couple examples are the Benjamin Airbow or the Umarex Javelin.
- Big-Bores = airguns that are .30 caliber or larger.
- Bullpup = a rifle with the action behind the trigger.
- PCP = Pre-charged pneumatic. PCP airguns are charged by pump or compressors that produce high pressure air and tanks that store high pressure air. It is important to ensure that the high pressure air is as dry as possible before charging a PCP.
- Pneumatic Airgun = charging by pumping an integrated pump to build air pressure to propel a projectile.
- Springer = spring piston airgun (this also includes gas-ram airguns)


Projectiles:
- Air Bolt = an arrow designed to be propelled by high pressure air. There are two types: a hollow arrow that slips over a tube that uses high pressure air to propel the bolt from the the front toward the tip. A solid arrow with a specialized nock often using an o-ring to trap the air behind the Nick of the arrow propelling it forward.
- BB = I never looked it up, but my guess is that this stands for ball bearing. A small round Metal projectile generally of .177 caliber propelled by pneumatic, pre-charged pneumatic air, or compressed CO2. BBs are usually made of brass to my understanding.
- Diabolo Pellet (pronounced Dee-uh-bow-low) = the typical round-head, thin-waste, flared skirt projectiles that many of us simply refer to as “pellets.” There are head variation such as hollow points, modified hollow points (think Predator Polymags or Metalmags), wadcutters.
- Round Ball = a big-bore caliber projectile that is essentially a round lead ball.
- Slugs = usually lead projectiles propelled by high pressure air that can resemble or be the same type of lead bullets seated in firearm cartridges. Airgun slugs can be produced by casting or swaging.



Rifle Scopes
- FFP = first focal plane
- SFP = second focal plane
- Ocular Lens = the end of the scope closest to the shooter's eye looked through to view a target. This lens is usually the one adjusted to focus the reticle.
- Objective Lens = the lens on the end of the scope furthest from the eye of the shooter. The objective lens is usually the larger end of a mm traditional rifles scope. As I understand it the object lens allows light to enter and uses it to produce a viewable image.
- Parallax = the visual effect of where the position of an object appears to be in different areas relative to the viewer's position. Some refer to it as FOCUS inn simple terms.
- IR = Illuminated reticle OR infrared. Context is important here. On traditional rifle scopes this likely refers to an illuminated reticle. On digital night vision scopes it likely refers to infrared.
- MOA = minute of angle
- MRAD (aka Mil) = milliradian

Tanks, Compressors, PCPs
- Bar = unit of pressure equal to 100,000 newtons per square meter or one atmosphere. 1 bar = approx 14.50378 psi
- CF = carbon fiber
- Flll Port = juncture where a fill whip is connected to a PCP. This can be a hole that a fill probe is inserted or where foster fittings mate (connect).
- Fill Probe = a tubular metal device with a hole in it and o-rings on both sides of the hole(s) used to fill some PCP reservoirs.
- Fill Whip = an HPA hose (aka micro-bore hose) with fittings on both ends used to connect an HPA source to a PCP and at times a compressor to a SCBA tank.
- Foster Fitting = a common type of QD fitting used to connect PCP airguns to fill sources (SCBA tanks, compressors, etc), HPA hoses, and fill fittings. Foster fittings do not come in uniform sizes so it is good to order from established retailers that supply airgunners with components to ensure better compatibility.
- Gauge (aka manometer) = meter that displays the pressure contained by an HPA vessel (e.g. SCBA tank, bottle, fill whip, plenum, etca0
- HPA = high pressure air
- N2 = nitrogen. A clean and dry inert gas that can be used to charge PCP airguns.
- O-ring = a circular and often flexible ring often comprised of rubber used to seal areas meant to hold or direct high pressure air. O-rings can be made of other materials besides rubber. O-rings are very common and integral to the function of airguns and HPA components.
- Plenum = a chamber used to container HPA. In airguns it is often a second chamber that where regulated air is stored (lower perssure air that has passed through a regulator). Plenum air is used to propel a PCP projectile in regulated PCPs.
- PSI = pounds per square inch
- QD = quick detach
- Regulator = a device used to incrementally restrict HPA flow from a source of higher pressure to an area of consistently lower pressure. As mentioned in the quoted post, these can be internal or external.
- Reservoir = a storage chamber or vessel to store HPA used to charge a PCP often referred to as "tube" or "bottle."
- SCBA - self contained breathing apparatus. SCBA tanks are commonly used by firefighters to breath clean air while fighting fires. In our hobbies SCBA tanks are commonly used to fill or top of PCP airguns.
- SCUBA - self contained underwater breathing apparatus. commonly used in SCUBA diving, but are not commonly used by airgunners.
- Valve = a device used to control the flow of air by opening and closing. Some valves can be manipulated to manually control the flow of HPA in increments by the twist of a knob on SCBA tanks. Valves found within airguns are internal components designed to be opened by spring- charged hammers that literally hammer the valve open once the trigger is pressed (similar to a cocked revolver hammer). This forceful opening of the valve allows bursts of HPA to pass through in order to propel a projectile. There are hammerless valves that function differently.
 
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While I am always happy to help anyone that asks, I do understand the annoyance. It has become the custom of many to expect others to rush to their aide instead of spending a few moments of due dilligance doing a bit of research.

Had the OP started with "I tried to search" or "I suck at finding~" that is understandable & I have made similar posts myself on other technical forums.
 
While I am always happy to help anyone that asks, I do understand the annoyance. It has become the custom of many to expect others to rush to their aide instead of spending a few moments of due dilligance doing a bit of research.

Had the OP started with "I tried to search" or "I suck at finding~" that is understandable & I have made similar posts myself on other technical forums.
I  AM the OP of this thread &, #1) I enjoy helping out people #2) I never get annoyed by the requests for help & usually go out of my way to be of assistance (as others did for me many times). It's just made more difficult when people use incorrect terminology or don't supply pictures or relevant information. Sooo, that being said, I didn't need to search for anything nor do I suck at finding what I'm looking for if I am, in fact, looking for something. So, what's your point? I was hoping to start a " resource thread" that might aid people
 
I  AM the OP of this thread
While you may be the OP, this thread had made a segue to peoples reactions to OPs whom do not try to find answers. My reply was in the generalized sense towards OPs who fall in that category.

While I applaud the spirit for  your OP I fear such a resource would be of use to a minority of users. Many/most will still wander in & ask their questions without searching.

While austensibly a "info" thread my be of some service I think what may be a better approach (especially for the younger generations) would be an "Airgun Wiki" for AGN.
Terminology, tips & trick as well as airguns, gear, etc reviews could be posted. All of it could then be vetted by the community.

It very well could become the preeminent resource on the Web.
 
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I never mind the questions and have helped several new folks through IM and even one on one here. Something to consider about 'search first' for newbies. It's overwhelming and often one may not know where to start.

I learned this when years ago, I had seen a burning laser video. A laser that would burn through things. I thought it was cool and wanted to buy one until I saw the price and then decided I would just make my own. I found a forum dedicated to such and joined and tried to read up before asking questions and I just couldnt find out the answers to my questions. I didnt know enough to even start really. I finally made a post and asked my questions and was met with the standard 'search is your friend' and near gave up. Thankfully, one person IM'd me and we spoke on the phone and within 15 minutes, I had gathered more knowledge than I had in the previous days of pouring over old posts. I ended up making the laser and had fun with it.

I take that experience and use it here on AGN and have offered to speak with some new folks over the phone and it has helped. I like the spirit of what is being suggested here and the intent of it. I also know that in this day of 'instant information' some folks would rather be spoon fed than to dig and yes... that is annoying. But I also realize that there are some who 'dont know what they dont know' and searching and researching will be difficult. I suppose the same is true with any hobby. As ambassadors to this hobby, and out of excitement for our hobby, we want to 'hook' in people and help them to avoid issues that we had coming up with airguns, but there is something to be said for learning through experience.
 
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While you may be the OP, this thread had made a segue to peoples reactions to OPs whom do not try to find answers. My reply was in the generalized sense towards OPs who fall in that category.

While I applaud the spirit for  your OP I fear such a resource would be of use to a minority of users. Many/most will still wander in & ask their questions without searching.

While austensibly a "info" thread my be of some service I think what may be a better approach (especially for the younger generations) would be an "Airgun Wiki" for AGN.
Terminology, tips & trick as well as airguns, gear, etc reviews could be posted. All of it could then be vetted by the community.

It very well could become the preeminent resource on the Web.
Thanks for clarification on that. The airgun wiki suggestion is great imho. The changes in airguns just in the last few years on top of what already existed can be truly overwhelming!
 
The goals, experience, aptitude, budget, and ability of a new shooter all influence what is practical or helpful off the rip. My question is how does one police bad advice or tips that are patently wrong?? I have junk drawers full of.. well.. junk! that I was once told I needed only to learn better later in life. There is a lot of advice that could well apply to a mid level or seasoned air gunner that absolutely flies in the face of the K.I.S.S. philosophy for a new shooter. While the structure of AGN is light and conversational, I think there are like four threads in total that stay on topic from beginning to end 🤣 While that’s part of the nuance and enjoyability or the forum, that alone would make it hard for a newb to read through the noise.
 
The goals, experience, aptitude, budget, and ability of a new shooter all influence what is practical or helpful off the rip. My question is how does one police bad advice or tips that are patently wrong?? I have junk drawers full of.. well.. junk! that I was once told I needed only to learn better later in life. There is a lot of advice that could well apply to a mid level or seasoned air gunner that absolutely flies in the face of the K.I.S.S. philosophy for a new shooter. While the structure of AGN is light and conversational, I think there are like four threads in total that stay on topic from beginning to end 🤣 While that’s part of the nuance and enjoyability or the forum, that alone would make it hard for a newb to read through the noise.
THAT'S why I was hoping to keep it to NOMENCLATURE and ESSENTIAL TOOLS for the newcomer. Thread took on a life of its own & wandered (as many do).