I'm enjoying the progress and updated pics......What is your final plan for the pistol grip, are you leaving it hang on its own or are you planning to tie in into the rear at some point?
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I have heard of these, but I am trying not to spend more money on woodworking tools. Young guy with a family and full time job, my ship didn’t come in yet.Nice craftsmanship!
A straight and 90 degree pneumatic die grinders and a selection of tools from www.saburrtooth.com and www.kutzall.com are real time savers for "hand" carving the stock shape. Stay away from the 4" diameter wheels for an angle grinder. From my experience the bigger grinder just does not provide the finer dexterity needed for stock shaping.
It’s going to hang on its own, but I plan on putting a 1/4” threaded rod inside with epoxy to strengthen that weak area.I'm enjoying the progress and updated pics......What is your final plan for the pistol grip, are you leaving it hang on its own or are you planning to tie in into the rear at some point?
Is it easy to repair if needed, or would I have to strip it all back off if I wanted to fix scratches?TruOil is a wonderful durable finish made for stocks. I have used it on many over the years.
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You can fine sand and re-apply as needed, but it has been fairly tough for me.Is it easy to repair if needed, or would I have to strip it all back off if I wanted to fix scratches?
The reason I what to sand to such a high grit is it is much easier to achieve a semi gloss finish if using a low build oil/varnish mix.No need to sand above 220 grit. You cannot see the scratches it makes. A penetrating finish of some type will highlight the grain best and darken the color. Oils are easiest to repair but less durable. Oil varnish mixtures (like tru oil) are more durable but not as easy to spot repair. I use Osmo polx in Satan. I have it left over from furniture projects. It is somewhat like an oil varnish mixture.
Kinda like this. 600 grit and pure tung oil. Spanish cedar, Ash, and Purpleheart.Keep massaging that stock by light sanding and it will look polished and be scratch free......I like tung oil on my stocks but use very thin coats and let it dry before building up the layers.
Thanks for the tips. I have a random orbit sander so I will try that.I like the sling a lot. I've never tried those mags but I like my Carm mags. I get my gun close to final shape before attaching the rubber that serves as the butt pad. I have a large sander made by Bosch that has a random orbit mode and a more aggressive "turbo" mode. I use it to do the final shaping. It is important for the sander to go from the pad to the stock so it's pushing the rubber on, not pulling it off. I think yours will attach with screws but you may still want to do it this way. I start with 80 grit and turbo mode but work up through 220 grit. I don't use turbo mode after the initial grit. It leaves more readily visible scratches. But random orbit mode should remove them.
I use "uncle Mike's" flush sling swivel bases. I like the flush installation but I also often use a home made windage and elevation monopod that links ti the gun through the sling swiv base.