I'm enjoying the progress and updated pics......What is your final plan for the pistol grip, are you leaving it hang on its own or are you planning to tie in into the rear at some point?
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Wooden stock for the Bullshark.
- Thread starter OneAcreFarmer
- Start date
I have heard of these, but I am trying not to spend more money on woodworking tools. Young guy with a family and full time job, my ship didn’t come in yet.
Thanks for the tip though. I do like the silence and therapy of working with hand tools, but sometimes it takes too long.Upvote 0
It’s going to hang on its own, but I plan on putting a 1/4” threaded rod inside with epoxy to strengthen that weak area.
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There are different styles, but I like the ones with a short section of braided wrap. I made one for a shotgun many years ago that was about 2" long with a thin piece of foam under the leather.
www.classicgunstocks.com
Leather Covered Recoil Pads
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And here is a simulated leather style pad that might look good too.
www.midwestgunworks.com
www.midwestgunworks.com
Cervellati Microcell Recoil Pad, Extra Soft, Leather Effect, 15mm Thick, 80mm Hole Spacing
Check out the deal on Cervellati Microcell Recoil Pad, Extra Soft, Leather Effect, 15mm Thick, 80mm Hole Spacing at MGW
Cervellati
A pioneer in rubber technology, Cervellati has a storied history of developing high-quality recoil pads with advanced microcell technology that offers superior comfort without the extra weight found in some rubber pads. These grind-to-fit recoil pads come in many different sizes, thicknesses...
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I like the bigger flapper wheels but I switched to finer grit ones after finding the coarse ones are very aggressive. I am impatient so I like things that are fast. I have a domino XL so that is how I make the mortises. I have a big cove bit to do the channel for the air tube. I even use the domino to cut the wider mortise for the clamps. But I cannot avoid hand tools entirely. If I did not have the domino I would have used a plunge router.
I got some butt plates from Aliexpress but they are hard plastic and I don't like them much. I will use them as a shape guide.
I got some butt plates from Aliexpress but they are hard plastic and I don't like them much. I will use them as a shape guide.
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Some more progress. I finished all the shaping with a variety of different sanders, scrapers, and planes. Now I need to make a decision on the butt pad and then spend hours hand sanding. I’m planning on going up to 600 grit then doing multiple coats of finish. What is a good finish for gunstocks? I was thinking maybe Tung Oil, but wasn’t sure. 
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TruOil is a wonderful durable finish made for stocks. I have used it on many over the years.
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Is it easy to repair if needed, or would I have to strip it all back off if I wanted to fix scratches?TruOil is a wonderful durable finish made for stocks. I have used it on many over the years.
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No need to sand above 220 grit. You cannot see the scratches it makes. A penetrating finish of some type will highlight the grain best and darken the color. Oils are easiest to repair but less durable. Oil varnish mixtures (like tru oil) are more durable but not as easy to spot repair. I use Osmo polx in Satan. I have it left over from furniture projects. It is somewhat like an oil varnish mixture.
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The reason I what to sand to such a high grit is it is much easier to achieve a semi gloss finish if using a low build oil/varnish mix.
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Keep massaging that stock by light sanding and it will look polished and be scratch free......I like tung oil on my stocks but use very thin coats and let it dry before building up the layers.
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Does anyone know if this hole needs to be exposed? It goes all the way thru the action. The factory stock does not cover it, but my stock does. Thanks
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Y’all wanna see something cool? I wiped it down to raise the grain while sanding. It’s in there, now I just have to get it out.
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I'm not sure what that hole is for but I think it is for a pin in the action. It cannot be air related due to the location. I don't see what it cannot be covered. Might keep the pin from coming out.
Wiping with water or alcohol help you see what it will look with finish. It has great figure.
Wiping with water or alcohol help you see what it will look with finish. It has great figure.
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So I ordered a grind to fit butt pad and sling swivels, then I figured while I wait I might as well work on a leather sling. I didn’t want to finish sanding the stock until I fit the butt pad.
Side note: Does anyone have tips on installing a grind to fit butt pad? I’m assuming it’s not difficult on an unfinished stock, but I have never done it.
Anyway, here are some pics of the sling so far. I made built in holders for 2 of the awesome mags from Big Air Precision. I also added some padding at the shoulder area. I had off work today due to a snowstorm, so plenty of time.
Side note: Does anyone have tips on installing a grind to fit butt pad? I’m assuming it’s not difficult on an unfinished stock, but I have never done it.
Anyway, here are some pics of the sling so far. I made built in holders for 2 of the awesome mags from Big Air Precision. I also added some padding at the shoulder area. I had off work today due to a snowstorm, so plenty of time.
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I like the sling a lot. I've never tried those mags but I like my Carm mags. I get my gun close to final shape before attaching the rubber that serves as the butt pad. I have a large sander made by Bosch that has a random orbit mode and a more aggressive "turbo" mode. I use it to do the final shaping. It is important for the sander to go from the pad to the stock so it's pushing the rubber on, not pulling it off. I think yours will attach with screws but you may still want to do it this way. I start with 80 grit and turbo mode but work up through 220 grit. I don't use turbo mode after the initial grit. It leaves more readily visible scratches. But random orbit mode should remove them.
I use "uncle Mike's" flush sling swivel bases. I like the flush installation but I also often use a home made windage and elevation monopod that links ti the gun through the sling swiv base.
I use "uncle Mike's" flush sling swivel bases. I like the flush installation but I also often use a home made windage and elevation monopod that links ti the gun through the sling swiv base.
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Thanks for the tips. I have a random orbit sander so I will try that.
When shopping for sling swivels I saw the flush mount. I didn’t even know anything like that existed, but that’s what I bought. I don’t remember the brand. I like the idea of not having a stud protruding from the stock when the sling is removed.
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