N/A Working on springers

So I'm getting back to springers, I guess more in depth with them and learning more about them. PCP guy for years and have no issues working on them. Have owned springers since a child but never worked on them. Springers are very different obviously. What do I need to learn about or ways in how to work on them? I hear everyone talk about tuning and but what does that mean exactly? Basically a large spring and piston right? I've had a HW30S for years and soon to have a Cometa Fenix 400 on Friday if UPS sticks to the program. I've seen word of spring compressors. Are they pretty universal meaning I can use one on both of my guns? Any advice or tools, threads to point me in the right direction to learn more would be great.
 
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You’ll have no trouble working on a springer if you find PCPs easy—they're pretty straightforward mechanical devices. That said, unless you’ve got the strength of a bodybuilder, a spring compressor is a must for handling medium to magnum springers. I only shoot sub12 so never needed one. Tuning a springer fine-tunes its mechanics for a smoother, quieter, and more accurate shooting experience and handling. This can involve adjusting or replacing springs, tweaking preload, adding or modifying spring guides, upgrading seals, correct lubrication, polishing internals, etc. There are plenty of easy to install tuning kits out there that can take you a long way if needed, but true tuning is more about finding the perfect harmony between all the parts which is not so easy imho.

There are some seriously knowledgeable folks here who can probably offer better advice than me, but in any case, welcome back to the bright side!
 
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Before you even start, build a spring press. A good one with a looong throw. This is a good post to get ideas.
 
On most springers, the main spring is under some compression even when the gun is not cocked. Even on a low-powered gun where you can overcome this by hand, a spring compressor is a great help, and extra safety, in keeping things aligned and under control when taking the spring in and out. Some older designs - the Diana ball-sear guns come to mind - have trigger bits that come out with the spring. Reassemblling one of those without a compressor is just about impossible.
 
I have a Macarri tune kit arriving for my Beeman R9. Trying to tame the shot cycle some so this will be my first dive into spring guns. In the hunt for lubes and grease now.
Don't he have all you would need .. what evers not in the kit is available to add to cart ..

I just went back to copper anti seize . ( Aka Lazer lube) Not as quiet but effective..lol. ( And a lot cheaper )


One thing I do recommend is to scrag / set your spring first .. assembly goes much better .


Tool with a guide sleeve
scraging sleeve guide.jpg
Notice with in the guide sleeve no kinking ...😉
 
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Yeah I forgot to add lube and not sure if it comes in the kit.
The Macarri kit comes with a heavy grease most people call tar. It's typically applied only to the spring to dampen spring noise (twang). It's not what I'd use for lubricant .
They'll be a million people to tell you what to use in a moment. The only thing I'll say is springers need very little as in almost no lubrication. Just a light wipe of grease around the piston ends is enough. Whatever you do, make sure you clean all the old grease out thoroughly and don't get any in front of the piston seal.
 
Yeah I forgot to add lube and not sure if it comes in the kit.

The Macarri kits usually come with "tar", use all lubes sparingly and be sure to keep them away from the front side if the piston seal! If you read through his site, he recommends Moly for the guide and tar for the outer spring IIRC.
 
The Maccari kits I've gotten come with a small container of black tar, and another of dark grey moly grease. I do use the tar on older guns most of the time, but VERY sparingly, just a thin smear on the outer side of the spring coils. As DMM said, moly is good on the spring guide, also other high-wear spots like the breech pivot and shims, piston-to-cylinder contact points, ends of the spring, etc. Again, go VERY light with it.
 
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Yeah I forgot to add lube and not sure if it comes in the kit.
Things as that happens to the best of us ..lol

I was thinking of making up my own .. using nonmetalic synthetic antiseze/ marine grade stuff .. them maybe add extra fine moly powder at a decent ratio

Maybe start with something like this

https://www.jetlube.com/product/marine-grade-anti-sieze-nonmetallic-anti-seize-thread-lubricant.

Then I'm so cheap I'll probably just keep using normal everyday copper antiseize..lol
 
I recommend a good set of Chapman tools. They have very good bits and are made in the fine state of Connecticut. This a great set to go down the tool kit rabbit hole. They have fast shipping!


This yet another good set;

 
Don't he have all you would need .. what evers not in the kit is available to add to cart ..

I just went back to copper anti seize . ( Aka Lazer lube) Not as quiet but effective..lol. ( And a lot cheaper )


One thing I do recommend is to scrag / set your spring first .. assembly goes much better .


Tool with a guide sleeve
View attachment 495527
Notice with in the guide sleeve no kinking ...😉
The springs in JM KITS are pre set. Don't attempt to set a spring without a fairly snug mandrel. The spring shown may cause graunchy cocking. And not necessarily the smoothest firing. If you buy a separate spring from Jim why not have him set it for $2? He has the correct size mandrels on hand. The mandrel must fit snug with the spring at rest just like a well fitting guide. 1726148152683.jpeg
 
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The springs in JM KITS are pre set. Don't attempt to set a spring without a fairly snug mandrel. The spring shown may cause graunchy cocking. And not necessarily the smoothest firing. If you buy a separate spring from Jim why not have him set it for $2? He has the correct size mandrels on hand. The mandrel must fit snug with the spring at rest just like a well fitting guide. View attachment 495541
Maybe I don't know I just buy springs and seals . I do know for $2 or5$ he will set the spring in a offer listed ..

Ok .. says set spring not in kit 3$. ..

So the kit spring is more drop in then 👍
 
The springs in JM KITS are pre set. Don't attempt to set a spring without a fairly snug mandrel. The spring shown may cause graunchy cocking. And not necessarily the smoothest firing. If you buy a separate spring from Jim why not have him set it for $2? He has the correct size mandrels on hand. The mandrel must fit snug with the spring at rest just like a well fitting guide. View attachment 495541
Well I did say that's what the blur tube is a guide to prevent that .. lol. That was a old spring used as example straight where on the tube but kinked with out .. if you were to look at the picture ..lol
 
Anybody know if a TX200 spring will fit in a D54 ? even swap or do i need a new guide ? custom fit ?
I have a D54 that needs a new spring (fairly sure ) and i have a stock TX200 spring so............. ? I have never taken any springer apart , I understand the FPE and FPS will be different , i do not care about that ,and would be pleased if lower than original factory FPE .
 
Anybody know if a TX200 spring will fit in a D54 ? even swap or do i need a new guide ? custom fit ?
I have a D54 that needs a new spring (fairly sure ) and i have a stock TX200 spring so............. ? I have never taken any springer apart , I understand the FPE and FPS will be different , i do not care about that ,and would be pleased if lower than original factory FPE .
Don't try taking a D54 apart unless you have read up on disassembling that springer. You will absolutely need a spring compressor for that beast. I know since I had one. Also I don't believe you can use a TX200 spring in that rifle. Check ARH for spring kits since they have ones for the D54. Vortek may also have a kit. I have an extra D54 spring (factory original) that I swapped out for an ARH spring that you could have if you wanted to pay for shipping it. PM me if interested.