Yong Heng compression fitting and gasket washer issues

Well, went out for a session to fill up a new tank today and my failed pressure guage on the yong heng compressor started leaking air… an hour later the McMaster Carr order came in and I replaced that with a 2” Wika guage and high pressure adapter…cool, that ought to be the end of my problems right?

Another 15 minutes later the compressor just isn’t gain any pressure…huh, grab the soapy water, sure enough it had a leak at the last steel high pressure steel tube before the fill line. Dug up my spare gasket oring things and that should fix it. Nope, it also had a leak on the compression fitting on the top of the “high compression piston.” After retightening the lines multiple times no dice. It holds to 2k psi then starts leaking above that.



I've seen this issue with compression fittings before, where they seal once compressing the diameter of the line then fail to reseal after a disassembly.

I am thinking the rubber washers experienced some higher heat and they broke down since the rubber portion looked crumbly. Thinking about replacing those with copper or aluminum washers like you see on some hydraulic fittings

I usually cycle the compressor on for 15-20 minutes and have an equivalent rest/cooldown period. So I didn’t expect this issue. Oh well.

This is what I’m thinking, 3/16 automotive brake line (copper nickel alloy) is rated for 11,909 psi. I already have all the hardware to make flared brake line fittings. I’m thinking about ordering brake component adapters to make the connections and replace these sub-par lines. I’m also thinking a little longer line could be used and some cooling coils added while re-imagining the setup, as long as a person avoids low spots to avoid pooling points for moisture buildup…could be a win-win.

I’m seekin input on whether or not this is an alright idea, or a potential train wreck….as long as I’m staying with hardware safely rated for the pressures we are getting that should work fine right? I like the double flare component to brake lines vs compression fittings. I’m actually pretty surprised they use this style of straight through compression fittings…

Just trying to avoid buying an alkin for 2-3 more years, then I’m going to fill this thing with tannerite and send it to its firey resting place….or give it to some kid just starting out.

This compressor has filled 30 minute scba tanks from empty 4 times, and my new 97cf tank to 2000psi from empty exactly once. In the grande scheme of things it’s seen very little use, I like solving problems and making things better, but not quite this often…
 
When working on brake/hydraulic/aircraft high pressure lines, I ran into the same issues on reassembly from time to time.

The seat is usually fine but it's darn near impossible to perfectly align the bell to the tit perfectly.

I see-saw the N-nut as it gets tight with a tight-loose-tight-loose-tight action on my line wrench, yes, a line wrench, made for fittings.

Often this action massages the parts into alignment.

I have replaced many hydraulic fittings that were ruined with open end wrenches and crescent wrenches, flared fitting nuts are actually thin and need support from a line wrench.
 
Simple solution. Valve lapping compound. Get some in there, rotate the seals up against the fitting as best you can. Clean the compound off and reassemble. Problem solved.
You know, I hadn’t thought about lapping valve lapping compound. I’ll have to keep that in mind as something to try. Thanks!
 
When working on brake/hydraulic/aircraft high pressure lines, I ran into the same issues on reassembly from time to time.

The seat is usually fine but it's darn near impossible to perfectly align the bell to the tit perfectly.

I see-saw the N-nut as it gets tight with a tight-loose-tight-loose-tight action on my line wrench, yes, a line wrench, made for fittings.

Often this action massages the parts into alignment.

I have replaced many hydraulic fittings that were ruined with open end wrenches and crescent wrenches, flared fitting nuts are actually thin and need support from a line wrench.
 
You know, I hadn’t thought about lapping valve lapping compound. I’ll have to keep that in mind as something to try. Thanks!

My opinion is simply that you cannot clean lapping compound out of a tube, its going to make it into the compressor and ruin it. Try the "wiggle" and see-saw method first with a line wrench. See if that does it.
 
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My opinion is simply that you cannot clean lapping compound out of a tube, its going to make it into the compressor and ruin it. Try the "wiggle" and see-saw method first with a line wrench. See if that does it.
I ordered up some new tubes, i tried all the above suggestions repeatedly and it was still leaking around the tube itsel, of course it was nearly impossible to see, but it appears to actually be leaking around the interior of the fitting where the compression piece contacted the tube.

I’ll try the new lines, but ordered the brake line fittings to convert it to a copper-nickel alloy line should that fail to do the trick…..gotta love Chinese stuff! I’m interested to see if that would be a good long-term fix.

For the price point these things are hard to beat, but I’m looking forward to moving up in the world qualit-wise.
 
All too often the compression fitting leak is due to improper assembly. When I purchased my Tuxing the factory overtorqued the nut resulting in improper contact to tube OD, the ferrule to tube contact. Attached info may help.

View attachment 474583
I wouldn’t be surprised a bit if mine had been over-torqued from the factory. They had some galling on the threads from new. Of course there was no anti seize or even grease on the threads.
 
I wouldn’t be surprised a bit if mine had been over-torqued from the factory. They had some galling on the threads from new. Of course there was no anti seize or even grease on the threads.
Update: I went ahead and ordered a second yong heng unit: That way I can hopefully have one working unit at any given time.… compared to what I’ve got into tanks and valves, guns, water/oil filtration etc, it’s a minor expense I suppose..

If they are both working I could duty cycle them back and forth, cooling one down while maintaining progress on a fill with the other… that might work out pretty well, assuming i can keep them functioning lol.
 
Update: I went ahead and ordered a second yong heng unit: That way I can hopefully have one working unit at any given time.… compared to what I’ve got into tanks and valves, guns, water/oil filtration etc, it’s a minor expense I suppose..

If they are both working I could duty cycle them back and forth, cooling one down while maintaining progress on a fill with the other… that might work out pretty well, assuming i can keep them functioning lol.
Well, compressor #2 arrived this week and so far seems to be working well. Still waiting on the high pressure lines from China to repair compressor number one. I’m working on keeping my cycle times closer to 10 minutes rather than the 15 I was doing before. Also ordered some check valves from “best fittings” in the UK so I can just drain the compressor side and not my entire filter system for shutdown/startup cycles. That should save some runtime on the units. Almost have my tanks pressed back up to usable pressures.…this sure can be a finicky hobby at times.
 
Well, yong heng 2.0 blew its pressure guage even faster than the first one lol. I pulled my McMaster Carr oil filled Wika guage setup off 1.0 and plumbed it into this one.…this makes me think that a guage on the end of a fill line might be a better choice for “long term” use. That might help isolate the vibrations.
 
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Every time I read about people having problems with their compressors I'm thankful I bought a shoebox F10. If I had a high wattage inverter on my solar system it would just be set it and forgot it
I just learned about what the shoebox compressor is a couple weeks ago….and I sure wish I’d have started the hobby earlier because now I want two of them, and they’re no longer available.