I’ve had this radiator in a box for awhile, bought for a tig cooler project but went a different routeHeavyopp - where did you get the radiator? Do you have a purchase link? Looks like a fine setup.
You can buy a universal inline transmission cooler at just about any auto parts store. Find them online cheaper, just gotta wait on shipping.That small trans cooler seems hard to find — here’s one on ebay...
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Are you talking air lines here?I have wondered, based on the tubing temp, if there wouldn't be significant benefit to an interstage cooler between the first and second stage. The pressure probably isn't that high, so a cooler wouldn't be hard to source, but trying to figure out how to pipe it in...
Yes, as in piping the air thru a small cooler, like a trans cooler, which I believe could deal with 90-100 psi internal pressure.Are you talking air lines here?
Yes, as in piping the air thru a small cooler, like a trans cooler, which I believe could deal with 90-100 psi internal pressure.
I made water jackets for the air tubes that get hot. Yes it does make a bit of difference and I haven't had a bit of leak.
https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/2-more-yong-heng-compressor-mods-water-jacket-fan.996010/
You may want to check for any leaks or faulty gauge. I've gone from empty to 300 bar several times, non stop with new tanks and usually only get about 10 bar drop after the tank cools. Just my 2 cents.made a few small changes - added another fan to the radiator setup
removed the handle from the yong heng to promote better airflow over the cast iron head
tank has cooled and is now around 275 bar — gonna top it of
starting water temp is around 55 degrees - room temperature, same water as last nights run
What size tanks?You may want to check for any leaks or faulty gauge. I've gone from empty to 300 bar several times, non stop with new tanks and usually only get about 10 bar drop after the tank cools. Just my 2 cents.
45 minute tank. Never lost more that 10 or 12 bar.What size tanks?
I would think the larger the tank the more heated air in it, which would turn into more pressure loss as it cools.
I filled 2 60 minute tanks on 2 separate days. Both dropped to around 275 bar once cooled.
Heavyopp,Also a device built in to raise the pressure to 140 bar inside the filter before it allows air to pass, this promotes water seperation. Drain every 5 minutes or so.
View attachment 332961
It’s built into the water separator/filter — I didn’t build it — not a separate deviceHeavyopp,
Can you tell me about this back pressure device that holds until the pressure gets to 140 bar? Maybe a link would be even better?
Well, maybe if I don't let my tank, bottle, rifle drop below 150 bar, it won't take too long to fill up my molecular sieve unit. Although while it's filling I think I understand that the drive won't be doing much in the way of removing moisture as pressure is required to make that happen. I was hoping it was a simple inline add-on.It’s built into the water separator/filter — I didn’t build it — not a separate device