Yong Heng instead of small compressors with 12v motors.

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WorriedMan said:
Panzerfaust,
Agreed, three years in June for mine, no problem other than a leaking gauge. Semi-permanent in garage, set-up and break down bucket, hoses, and water pump each session. Don't use tank, just fill guns for home range use. A few other YH positives are inexpensive, easily found parts, good repair videos and power to pressurize post-compressor moisture filters. Caution needed to assure an authentic YongyIheng Pneumatic Company product is purchased, mountains of sub-par clones exist. Yong Heng produces 5 models; Simple, Hardcover, Set Pressure, Auto Stop and Digital. Hardcover and Set Pressure are recommended. Simple lacks Cyclonic Water Separator, Auto Stop is preset at factory (operator can't change) to stop @ 3,000 psi. Digital, OK, but price is up there. WMView attachment 499416
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This is interesting, is the water to ensure the YH doesn't overheat from a much smaller internal reservoir? Or is it required to run coolant like that?
If so, how often do you change the water?
 
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Yup, my El Cheapo is water cooled as well. The water is a little more effective with a small squirt of jet dry yup the stuff for the dishwasher, like water wetter but almost free. The water is a heat transfer media, pulls the heat away from the compressor. While very wasteful one could hook up to a faucet and adjust flow accordingly. This assumes your cold water is actually COLD, that is not the case sometimes. Since El Cheapo is next to my laundry sink I may try using a low flow of cold faucet water. An old dorm refrigerator and a big coil of plastic tubing inside might also do the trick. Would need to plug in the fridge a couple hours prior. Set the compressor pump on top. Dorm refrigerators are pretty darn cheap. Would likely need more pump for the water circulation.
 
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Captious said:
This is interesting, is the water to ensure the YH doesn't overheat from a much smaller internal reservoir? Or is it required to run coolant like that?
If so, how often do you change the water?
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Recognizing heat as a compressor-killer, Yong Heng adopted three methods to address. High-Pressure section is water-jacketed, a 160gph aquarium pump circulates water to and from an external source. Internal, rear-mounted fan cools electrics while crankcase oil provides friction-reducing lubrication. In addition to chilling water, owners often utilize external fans to move air past cylinder cooling fins, all in support of compressor longevity. Any person considering a HPA compressor should make note of how manufacturer has addressed the dissipation of heat. WM
 
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Captious,
Own a number of PCPs, shooting exclusively at home range (50 and 66-yard backstops.) Shoot a number down to regulator pressure over a couple of days then set up water bucket, stool and water-pump/hoses for fill session. After session, breakdown water supply portion, dump water in washing machine and use shop compressor to air dry internal high-pressure section water jacket. WM
 
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WorriedMan said:
Captious,
Own a number of PCPs, shooting exclusively at home range (50 and 66-yard backstops.) Shoot a number down to regulator pressure over a couple of days then set up water bucket, stool and water-pump/hoses for fill session. After session, breakdown water supply portion, dump water in washing machine and use shop compressor to air dry internal high-pressure section water jacket. WM
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Would a can of compressed air like used for Elect equipment work as well? Or does one need more Volume?
 
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PITA or not, you will need to use ice bottles, ice substitutes or something to pre-chill the water. I shut down if it gets to 120 degrees. I use a 5 gallon bucket with distilled water and Water Wetter, upgraded pump and an additional fan. So far so good filling my 60 minute scba bottles from 3000 to just under 4500. IMO, the YH is best used to fill and top bottles, not direct fill to guns.
 
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Please recognize that a can of compressed air IS NOT AIR!!! It is useful for blowing dust out of electronics and that is about all. It also may be flammable, do not breathe what comes out of the can, it is not air.
I did service on and later sold compressed air systems for dental offices for decades. Heat is your air compressors #1 enemy. The longer the run time for the pump, the greater importance on cooling it. A small reservoir of water will get warm very quickly, ice is required to keep the water temperature down. I shoot for keeping the temperature to 60c or below, that requires replenishing the ice a couple three times.
 
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I just set mine up in a new location. I put it out in the Utility room. "converted from a garage" I tripled My Water Capacity, the Freezer with all My Frozen Bottles is 3 feet away, and I have a small Commercial grade Fan, and I think it will really be good. I still have a Full Tank, and still using the first tank, so I have no Idea as to when I will be able to test it! lol
 
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If you do not have a radiator then having more volume of water and cooler water will help you keep the YH temperature down. I use a radiator sold for cooling computer equipment. They are about $30 on Amazon. The hose size is compatible with the YH cooling hoses. I have two 120V fans on the radiator and a 8 inch fan on the motor and fins of the first stage. I can run for a long time, possibly indefinitely, without going over about 62 degrees C. In the winter I won't get to 60 C. I have about 2 gallons of distilled water with water wetter in it in a bucket that is sealed. The electric line for the pump goes through the lid and there are metal connectors for the hoses through the lid. I don't change the water. In the summer sometimes I throw a couple pop bottles that are frozen in the water to keep the temperature below 60 on a bottle refill. My temperature will rise up over 50 degrees C in the first 5 minutes but then climb more and more slowly to a little under or over 60 depending on the ambient temperature.

I will probably try a 1 gallon "bucket" just to reduce the footprint. I'm hoping the only effect will be the temperature will rise even quicker but the maximum temperature will not change. If that happens, it will be a good change. If the temperature goes up I may add a second radiator before going back to a larger bucket.
 
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I set mine up like this, and I have a bunch of frozen bottles and jugs when needed. Probably about 12 gal or so of water.

IMG_1256.jpeg
 
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you guys have really been having that hard of a time with the cheap 12.volt shoe boxes? I've been running my cheap 12 volt thrasher box for going on two years, I just rebuilt it for the first time the other day. I've had it apart once before to lube it up with silicone faucet grease, my 110 to 12 volt box is outside of the compressor and my fan really rips, it takes exactly as long to fill my blitz as it takes me to reload the five magazines that depleted it. never see over 22C and it's in my 65F basement cool air, I've seen a bit warmer when I have it out somewhere running off my Jeep, but nothing close to hot. besides it being loud I have no complaints and rebuild kits are cheap on Amazon. I don't fill bottles and if I did, I'd give it a rest every 20 minutes like it says. I'd get another one in a heart beat, and I have a couple rebuild kits on hand. maybe I just got a good one. I see a lot of bad reviews but just assumed people were not following the directions and letting it rest and run a bit to cool down. or starting it with 200 bar against it without opening the bleed to let it get going before hand. I like being able to throw it in my jeep and take wherever I go, but quiet is very appetizing as well for those nights I'm up late blasting raccoons off the lawn while the old lady is sleeping, but typically no more than 5 full dumps on coons happen in a single night anyways, sure there's semi auto but that's not why I got a blitz haha
 
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Ive been running a yh' for the last 4 year.. When i got into pcp's i purchases a yh to fill 2 expired msa 45m tanks which i purchased off ebay for like 75 bucks each.. That yh never skipped a beat. and after the initial fill from 0-4500 i topped them off from 200bar 2-3 times a week. But then one day it stopped filling. So i bought a vevor which was speced out the same as a yh just about 50 bucks cheaper. That worked just ok for like 2 weeks then blammy, no more vevor. I bought another yh after my disapointment i was met with the vevor.
So for the cash you kinda can not beat the yh for price to performance.
 
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WorriedMan said:
Captious,
Own a number of PCPs, shooting exclusively at home range (50 and 66-yard backstops.) Shoot a number down to regulator pressure over a couple of days then set up water bucket, stool and water-pump/hoses for fill session. After session, breakdown water supply portion, dump water in washing machine and use shop compressor to air dry internal high-pressure section water jacket. WM
Click to expand...
Thank you for the explanation. It makes sense why you'd play it safe with such a high volume of water in that case.
 
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The volume of water is important to hold the temp down. I used an old cooler for my water tank. Since I put more water in the cooler, the temps stay down nicely W/O ice. Did an oil change on El Cheapo my 150 buck PCP pump yesterday. I'll have a look this AM, drained the old oil through a coffee filter to check for metal. I'll take pics and post later. Oil was very dark after a couple hours of run time. Looks like very fine metal particles throughout, the filter will tell the tale. I checked my big air filter yesterday as well, looks clean and new with zero moisture or evidence of moisture, perfect! I bought the pricey Ingersoll Rand full synthetic compressor oil for it. I'll change it again in a couple more hours of run time. IR doubles the warranty on their compressors if their synthetic oil is used.IMG_1789.jpg Here's the pic of the coffee filter I drained through, oil was very dark I'm sure that is the fine black stuff in the oil. I'll change it again after a couple more hours of run time. I'll assume the black is some kind of composite bearing material, I see a few chips etc. from manufacturing expected at this quality level. I've not run it at all on it's new oil we shall see if it quiets down and smooths out a bit with break in and good lubricant. I think changing oil every five hours or so may be wise. I'll put a small tube on my vacuum oil extractor to make it quick and neat to change. Doing Addl. Maint. can stretch the service life of this equipment. Tho the good oil is pricey I'd guess a liter is good for 3-4 changes easy. Heck we went to the moon with every part supplied by the lowest bidder.
 
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