Yong Heng mods update

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Fly said:
what I do not understand is we run water cooled $300 compressors add extra fans ect. But the high
dollar Aikin & Bauer compressors are air cooled & do not seem to have little to no problems?
Some one please explain this to me.

Fly🤔
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You'll probably want to take a class on thermal dynamics :) possibly add a couple of materials classes as well.
Aluminum transfers heat/cold very well, copper is better. Cast Iron not so much.
If you look some air cooled motors they have lots of evenly spaced fins up and down the cylinder, they normally get larger the closer you get to the head, where the heat is generated. The point is you have to remove X amount of heat to keep everything working within the design limits.
In the case of these compressors, the cast iron first stage doesn't generate all that much heat, but we know from thermal dynamics that when you compress a gas it gets hot, once it's transferred to the second stage it is already hot and get hotter being compressed again. So the second stage is Aluminum and water cooled. The second stage heat is transferred to the aluminum cylinder and the water picks up that heat and removes it.

That's the 10,000 foot view.

Smitty
 
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Fly said:
what I do not understand is we run water cooled $300 compressors add extra fans ect. But the high
dollar Aikin & Bauer compressors are air cooled & do not seem to have little to no problems?
Some one please explain this to me.

Fly🤔
Click to expand...
The yong heng has poorly designed cooling in the second stage of the pump. The water passage is a single vertical hole drilled through one side of the cylinder to keep manufacturing costs low. A wet sleeve would be much better but costs more to manufacture. Yong heng cuts corners to keep cost low and designed a product to fill this niche. Water cooling in this case is a cheap work around to lower cost.
 
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The Alkin W31 has three true, independent stages, with inter cooling between each stage. It also runs at a rational pace for its abilities and runs nowhere near its design limits for our typical use. The filtering is at a whole different level.
The “cooling fan” on the Yong Heng is a joke, the blades are not pitched to push or pull air, and even if they were, the grill is 70% blocked and there are no passages to allow airflow. While it’s critical to keep the top end cool, if neglected, the motor will surely fail if pushed for extended periods. I’d imagine many of us have smelled the “well heated” windings of a Yong Heng.
 
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Well no I never took thrermal dynamic’s but I spent a lot of time in different types of racing. when I was involved
in kart racing I took a KT100 Yamaha engine and machined the center fins off and reshaped the top bottom fins
& made a aluminum sleeve to fit over the top & bottom fins and tig welded them to the sleeve. I also machined
the fins from the head & fabricated water jacket & tig welded that toget her making a water cooled racing kart
engine & used a automotive transmission cooler for the radiator. We won a lot of major races in the 70s with that
set up before they had water cooled Kart engines.Not bad for a guy that never took thermal dynamics. I ask very
legitimate question. Almost all motorcycle & automotive engines are water cooled. Sorry I ask I should have known
better by not ever taking thermal dynamics as you.

Fly🤭😯
 
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Scotty1 said:
The Alkin W31 has three true, independent stages, with inter cooling between each stage. It also runs at a rational pace for its abilities and runs nowhere near its design limits for our typical use. The filtering is at a whole different level.
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Thank you Scotty not knowing anything about those compressors I new they where doing something different. I,m just trying to learn & I appreciate guys as you my friend.

Fly
 
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heavy-impact said:
The yong heng has poorly designed cooling in the second stage of the pump. The water passage is a single vertical hole drilled through one side of the cylinder to keep manufacturing costs low. A wet sleeve would be much better but costs more to manufacture. Yong heng cuts corners to keep cost low and designed a product to fill this niche. Water cooling in this case is a cheap work around to lower cost.
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Thank you also HI I may look into that tomorrow & see if I can modify or maybe machine a water jacket into the
existing head. Maybe making a new head? Tuxing has water jacket on that one model, come to think about it?

Fly Hummmmmmmmm
 
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Fly said:
Well no I never took thrermal dynamic’s but I spent a lot of time in different types of racing. when I was involved
in kart racing I took a KT100 Yamaha engine and machined the center fins off and reshaped the top bottom fins
& made a aluminum sleeve to fit over the top & bottom fins and tig welded them to the sleeve. I also machined
the fins from the head & fabricated water jacket & tig welded that toget her making a water cooled racing kart
engine & used a automotive transmission cooler for the radiator. We won a lot of major races in the 70s with that
set up before they had water cooled Kart engines.Not bad for a guy that never took thermal dynamics. I ask very
legitimate question. Almost all motorcycle & automotive engines are water cooled. Sorry I ask I should have known
better by not ever taking thermal dynamics as you.

Fly🤭😯
Click to expand...
You didn't say how specific the information you wanted should be or what you planned on doing with it. I didn't honestly believe you were going to take a bunch of courses in various disciplines to get a more precise answer, but not everyone gets my humor.

Seems based on your racing history, I'm surprised you asked in the first place, Shrug

Have a good evening.

Smitty
 
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heavy-impact said:
There's a larger 150mmx50mm 120v fan that would be more effective and allow you to remove the original plastic for better flow. $32 usd
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This fan what I had a spare from my 3d printer enclosure, not large enough to clamp it directly to the sheetmetal housing, so I just tap it to the plastic ring (what is not visible I removed the plastic molded grill underneath for unrestricted flow) . These high volume/flow fans works great you can really feel the air "push".
 
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My 110V case fan is similar to the one Heavy-impact showed. The fan blades on mine are also 150mm diameter which is a perfect match with the existing hole in the back of the YH. Unfortunately the YH fan blade protrudes out of the case a bit, which forces you to space the electric fan away from the case. It's a slight inconvenience, but use some flat washers to space it away from the case and then duct tape the gap. I took these pictures just now before duct taping.
P_20220731_092202.jpg

P_20220731_091604.jpg


My case fan is a bit unusual from most in that it is not mounted in a square chassis, which also means the bolt holes are not at the "corners". Here is a screen shot from Amazon where I bought my case fan. I think my fan has a higher air flow rating than the square 150mm fan by the same company.

Screenshot from 2022-07-31 10-50-28.png


grungy
 
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It seems to me 🤔 (ya right) that if someone made longer pressure transfer pipes between the first stage and second stage and ran it through a small container of ice and water it would run much better. I remember, I think, either knife maker or Motorhead wrapping wet rags around the pipes and it really helped to cool the temps down. Another way to get these yong Heng type compressors to live like a Atkins IMHO is to put a gear reduction between the motor and the pump. Slow that puppy down!
 
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Fly said:
grungy have you seen a substantial drop in temp.

Fly
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Hi Fly. I've only owned my Yong Heng for a short time and have only used it to top off my rifle tank (I don't have an SCBA tank yet). Directly topping off my rifle with the YH happens so quickly that I haven't had to pay much attention to the temperature. So I don't have any useful quantified observations.

I'm hoping that someone with a lot of experience with the Yong Heng and SCBA tanks will do this same mod and give us some real before and after numbers.
grungy
 
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I completely agree with the benefit from high flow ventilation. I took out the stock fan and have this high volume blower blast air directly from the back. I also have a separate computer type fan blowing directly on the compression chamber, but I don't know if it makes as much a difference or not. Probably doesn't hurt. The temperature has never exceeded 47C even up to 15 minutes of use. I also use ice in the water. The back blower seems to have made the most difference as compared to the stock fan. Right now, I am happy with this set up, but I'm always looking for ways to improve.

IMG_5586.jpg
 
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bigHUN said:
I have removed the original YH fan from the shaft and mounted a high flow fan from AC Infinity. It is a plug in so that means works independently from the compressor, usually I let it run an extra 5 minutes until I pack up the gear after a refill.

View attachment 279644
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Hi bigHUN. I'm curious to know why you removed the original YH fan from the shaft. Wouldn't the two fans work together for more air flow when the compressor is running?
grungy
 
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